dfhrace
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what did you have to do the the output supply? i am getting ready to order the parts for it and am excited for a nice little labbie :yh:
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Dorky Overkill Heatsink for 445nm
- Thread starter Markus Unread
- Start date
what did you have to do the the output supply? i am getting ready to order the parts for it and am excited for a nice little labbie :yh:
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There is a capacitor that needs to be removed -
It slows the current sense loop and causes a current glitch on power up.
I added a bulk capacitor (~200uF) across the output to minimize any remaining glitch.
I also removed the CC set pot and used a 10K panel mount for this project.
Good luck!
I just wanted to ask you Markus,
how is that Amperemeter connected?
I see it needs a power supply, and then what?
In series with the circuit (I guess not -> 10A), or in parallel over a defined shunt/resistor?
Also there's gotta be a mistake in that ebay auction, the price is now 100$:wtf:
There are some "equivalent" for 13$, though...
how is that Amperemeter connected?
I see it needs a power supply, and then what?
In series with the circuit (I guess not -> 10A), or in parallel over a defined shunt/resistor?
Also there's gotta be a mistake in that ebay auction, the price is now 100$:wtf:
There are some "equivalent" for 13$, though...
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Holy Crap! $100 is way off. They should be ~10-15 USD. I just sent them a message
to see if they will fix their listing!
There are four wires on the ammeter -
Red- (+) 5-15VDC Meter supply
Black- (-) Meter supply
Green- Connect to load device (laser) (-)
Blue- Connect to power supply output (-)
Connect the (+) output of the power supply directly to load (+)
This puts the current sense resistor in the meter in series with the load's minus (-) side.
Last edited:
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You need to drive this laser at 1.8A, sir. The labby heatsink you have over there is more than enough to cool a 2 W 445 
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You need to drive this laser at 1.8A, sir. The labby heatsink you have over there is more than enough to cool a 2 W 445
True! That's why it is called "Dorky Overkill"
OK so the meter works "as is" in series, cause it has the shunt/resistor inbuilt.
So you just put it between the driver out positive and the diode's positive leg, or
between the diode' negative leg and the power source negative?
Correct?
Ten amps seems quite alot for those fllmsy wires....
So you just put it between the driver out positive and the diode's positive leg, or
between the diode' negative leg and the power source negative?
Correct?
Ten amps seems quite alot for those fllmsy wires....
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"diode' negative leg and the power source negative?" <<<---
That one.
"Ten amps seems quite alot for those fllmsy wires"
The meter I used is 0-2A, not 10. The 10+ meters, I believe, uses an external shunt.
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I got word back from VirtualVillage -
"You may found we are having a few listings' price very high, however, please don't worry, we are plusing $100 for the out-of-stock items recently so we can still maintain our listing without pulling back and once we have the item available again, we will rectify the price quickly with a immediately effect. I hope this behavior is not bothering.
I hope this make sense but please let me know if you need any more information."
So, instead of showing as out of stock, they make the price stupid.
Unbelievable.
"You may found we are having a few listings' price very high, however, please don't worry, we are plusing $100 for the out-of-stock items recently so we can still maintain our listing without pulling back and once we have the item available again, we will rectify the price quickly with a immediately effect. I hope this behavior is not bothering.
I hope this make sense but please let me know if you need any more information."
So, instead of showing as out of stock, they make the price stupid.
Unbelievable.
hakzaw1
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12mm drills can be gotten- thats the size of AixiZ modules. If you want to put in a green module they are usually 11.9mm.(or was it 11.5mm???) nice job
btw it may run even cooler if the module were just a little further back as I think the diode is not entirely inside your HS.(sticks out a little too much) I have one very much like that one and it is 12 mm deep. perfect!! they can be gotten on ebay very cheaply too and comes w/ a fan.
hak
btw it may run even cooler if the module were just a little further back as I think the diode is not entirely inside your HS.(sticks out a little too much) I have one very much like that one and it is 12 mm deep. perfect!! they can be gotten on ebay very cheaply too and comes w/ a fan.
hak
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Actually, the back surface of the diode, along with the copper spreader, are compressed flat against the heatsink face - with thermal paste.
zdarkazn
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I wish i had an overkill heatsink for all my lasers
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Abit late replying to this thread..... but that is freaking SWEEET!!!!!!!! I wish I had thy mechanical skills. Pure electrical skills lacks the ability to make beaaauuuttiffulll projects like that. Newegg has a crapload of heatsinks. Mind trying to make a DIY tutorial for one of these? Old cpu heat sinks are generally rather unique and not replicable.
