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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Arctic updating

Hemlock_Mike

Hemlock_Mike

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I have an early Spyder III arctic. Steve used the newest diodes available then but I would like to bring it up to date with an M140 or a 9mm.
How the hell do you get it apart? I want to keep the battery condition diodes functional, jack the current and see it shine!!!!
HMike
 





offroadfreak8582

offroadfreak8582

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Hemlock_Mike said:
I have an early Spyder III arctic. Steve used the newest diodes available then but I would like to bring it up to date with an M140 or a 9mm.
How the hell do you get it apart? I want to keep the battery condition diodes functional, jack the current and see it shine!!!!
HMike
Click to expand...

Screw of the lens cover on the front. Screw out the lens. Screw out the heatsink with direct press 5.6mm diode. Snip the cables. Tear out the innards. Get one of those modules that dave once made for upgrading his arctic. Put in a boost driver. And get an imr 18650 a 9mm diode and module. Reverse previous steps.

Should be easy lol :beer:

EDIT: found the thread!

http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/improved-greatly-improved-arctic-mod-61956.html
 
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Hemlock_Mike

Hemlock_Mike

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Holy Sxxt Batman!! What a mess of goooo.
Thanks for the starting place!!+1
Does the control board press out the battery side?
HMike
 
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daguin

daguin

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Hemlock_Mike said:
Holy Sxxt Batman!! What a mess of goooo.
Thanks for the starting place!!+1
Does the control board press out the battery side?
HMike
Click to expand...

That mod does NOT preserve the battery indicator
In that mod, I just knock the driver out, cutting the wiring to the LED control board, as it goes

As you might imagine, the host was not really designed to be dismantled
The part with the LED's in it has to be twisted slightly to get to the wiring for the LED wiring and the battery indicator driver board
I *think* it's glued in place
Most everything else is pressed in place

In the original assembly, it appears that the diode driver is placed into the host, then the wiring for the battery indicator board is pulled out through the side. The battery indicator board is soldered on and slipped into the recess behind where the LED's are. Then the part with the LED's is twisted over the recess and glued in place

After working with the host (without proper machinist tools) I gave up the battery indicator in favor of the large heat sink

Peace,
dave
 
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Hemlock_Mike

Hemlock_Mike

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Thanks Dave ---
I got the Laser assembly apart and the diode removed. I'm
not sure about the final condition of the lens however....
I had to use my lathe to help get the lens out.
Heat on the body will be next .. I have a BIG vice along with
my other vices!!!!
HMike
 
Hemlock_Mike

Hemlock_Mike

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Fiddy ---
That's about what I did but the arctic is different.
I had to press out the driver board along with the spring
contact. My wires are much shorter and no connectors.
So far, my testing shows limited current available -- 90 mA.
I will try adding a sense resistor to see if it will go up --
otherwise a new driver board will be built with a v5 or
whatever I have.
Picture later ---
HMike
 
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daguin

daguin

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Hemlock_Mike said:
Fiddy ---
That's about what I did but the arctic is different.
I had to press out the driver board along with the spring
contact. My wires are much shorter and no connectors.
So far, my testing shows limited current available -- 90 mA.
I will try adding a sense resistor to see if it will go up --
otherwise a new driver board will be built with a v5 or
whatever I have.
Picture later ---
HMike
Click to expand...

You have the first generation Arctic (no "smart switch")

Peace,
dave
 
Hemlock_Mike

Hemlock_Mike

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Dave -- You are correct.
I like it that way - The KISS design!
Now do I put in an M140 or a new 9mm?
HMike

Here is the picture:

7816-old-spyder-iii.jpg


This is a simple driver and may not be able to supply a newer diode.

Adding extra shunt resistors doesn't add much to the current via voltage. It has an SGM358 opamp
as the controler chip. I'm going with a newer driver. Steve did good with the technology of the time
but this is a remodel project!!!
Is there REALLY a 4W diode? Some of it looks like a joke.
 
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Fiddy

Fiddy

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Hemlock_Mike said:
Fiddy ---
That's about what I did but the arctic is different.
I had to press out the driver board along with the spring
contact. My wires are much shorter and no connectors.
So far, my testing shows limited current available -- 90 mA.
I will try adding a sense resistor to see if it will go up --
otherwise a new driver board will be built with a v5 or
whatever I have.
Picture later ---
HMike
Click to expand...

Oh i see! Haven't seen a 1st generation arctic before!
good job on getting it apart :beer:
 
Hemlock_Mike

Hemlock_Mike

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Yah -- Wish I had looked for your
info first! Might have saved me some time.
Thanks -- HMike
 
daguin

daguin

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Hemlock_Mike said:
Dave -- You are correct.
I like it that way - The KISS design!
Now do I put in an M140 or a new 9mm?
HMike

Here is the picture:

7816-old-spyder-iii.jpg


This is a simple driver and may not be able to supply a newer diode.

Adding extra shunt resistors doesn't add much to the current via voltage. It has an SGM358 opamp
as the controler chip. I'm going with a newer driver. Steve did good with the technology of the time
but this is a remodel project!!!
Is there REALLY a 4W diode? Some of it looks like a joke.
Click to expand...

It was a joke. I'm sure one is "coming", but not just yet for hobbyists

As you are planning what way to rebuild, keep in mind that the rubber "keeper" with the battery contact had a "flange" that fit into a groove in the host body
The flange tore off as you pressed the driver assembly out of the host
That flange held the driver and battery contact in place
If you use the heat sink I designed (and had Jayrob make) then you just glue the rubber part onto the end of the heat sink

If you do something else, keep in mind that you are going to have to hold the battery contact position somehow
You may also have to use a long, thin, hook to remove the remnants of the flange from the groove to allow things to slide into place

If you do my mod, there are a couple of other tips I can share

Peace,
dave
 
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Hemlock_Mike

Hemlock_Mike

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Dave --- Stop peeeing on my project ☺☺☺
Just kidding -- all info is appreciated - Thanks

The keeper, after being pressed out, shows no signs of a
flange. It is ~ 7mm thick and appears to have a good friction
fit but a drop of glue will help on reassembly. Thanks for the
heads up on that.
I will be making a driver board to hold 2 v5 drivers @ 1 A each.
HMike
 
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daguin

daguin

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Hemlock_Mike said:
Dave --- Stop peeeing on my project ☺☺☺
Just kidding -- all info is appreciated - Thanks

The keeper, after being pressed out, shows no signs of a
flange. It is ~ 7mm thick and appears to have a good friction
fit but a drop of glue will help on reassembly. Thanks for the
heads up on that.
I will be making a driver board to hold 2 v5 drivers @ 1 A each.
HMike
Click to expand...

If you look closely at the "beveled" edge (on the spring side), you will see the artifacts of the rubber tearing ;)

Peace,
dave
 
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