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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

FS: >110mW PHR, >140mW 4x & >170mW 6x Blu-Rays

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Igor, that's a nice little laser you have there. I'd contact BrewCityMusic when he is able to come back (hope he's ok), about getting some SXD modules, he says they cost a bit more, but are worth it.
 





IgorT

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Can you point me to these modules?

I can also get modules straight from CNI, but they are EXPENSIVE!!

However there at least you don't get a <70mW-and-dropping ">150mW" greens!


But i am trying to find a middle ground here.. Obviously i'd return any underperforming or non-TEM00 modules, so i think it might just be possible to find an affordable solution.
 
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I haven't been able to find them, he said he gets them from his supplier, but not where they get them from. I'm not sure if he knows either.
 
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IgorT

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I have a small problem...


I converted this micro-Keychain red laser to constant current, as a favor to one of my 6x buyers, but now i can't reach them anymore (email don't work :thinking:)...

If you are reading this, please email me, so i can send you your laser, and figure out what to do with the other parts that came in for you in the meanwhile...



P.S. I am not offering this keychain build for sale, because the host is used by Kenom - this was just an experiment to see if it's possible to get a driver and a 10280 Li-Ion in there (and a favor-build).


I made my own high power Keychain laser models, i'll post those in a bit.
Those WILL be for sale, and they can even support a 6x BluRay...
 

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IgorT

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Micro (Keychain) Builds


Here are two of my Micro-lasers. One design is already finished, the other still needs some work. Both run off a 10280 Li-Ion battery.


I put a 6x diode into the experimental one, but a weak 6x diode - a GGW that was weeded out during pre-testing due to it's low efficiency.. The reason for this is that low efficiency diodes create more heat at the same current.
This diode peaked at only 170mW @ 200mA during pre-testing, so i pushed it to 230mA to get just over 200mW after a plastic lens.

Since i normally never set GGWs above 200mA, this low efficiency one is a very good test of the micro-host's heatsinking abilities...




If a higher efficiency GGW was used instead (like i do in all my builds), it could have even more power at a lower current and at the same time be more stable, due to creating less heat...
Altho surprisingly, due to the host's mass, this thing doesn't overheat too quickly. Took me quite some time to get a beamshot i was happy with, and in the end it was still below body temp!



Here are some pictures... The two micros alone, a beamshot, and size comparison photos...

It's amazing to have this much power in such a tiny shape... With the medium FL glass lens this thing does 242mW! :yh:



P.S. These Micro's were machined for me by Jayrob, in a way that the AixiZ module is a press fit!
 

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IgorT

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Yeah, it's been a long time, since we were still trying to figure out how to get longer batteries in, eh?

Unfortunatelly i had too much other more pressing work to get these done sooner....


Well, i did put one Micro together a while ago, but ran into quite a few problems in the process, since it's a couple mm shorter than yours. Had to move the button higher, and make it share space with the driver, to make it fit an 10280 at all! Took some improvisation, but it worked out nicelly in the end! :yh:



I'm designing a new Micro, one that will have much more mass, and should even be able to support an 8x!

I just can't decide if i should go for a side-button or a tail clicky..
Need input, i'm stuck... :undecided:
 
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Hey Igor, I do love the past builds with the tail button, so stocked up on the tail button units, I vote side buttons next! LOL!
 

IgorT

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I would also love to make a micro with a side-button, but it presents certain very complex problems for the build...

Basically i want the diode to be pressed directly into the aluminum head of the micro host (so that the head and the entire host are the heatsink)...

The driver obviously gets soldered on the diode in the head.
But then the head has to be screwed into the body, and the driver will be turning...

If the driver is connected by a wire, to a side-button, which is fixed in the body, the wire will twist and break!

In order to make it a sidebutton build it'll need to have a much more complex structure. But i too would prefer a sidebutton, maybe even a side clicky. There are beautiful tiny clicky's available for just that!

Since they exist in the same shape and size as tiny momentary pushbuttons, the same host could be used for both a momentary and a constant-ON/OFF button, depending on the end-user's wishes!


I'll need to do some thinking.. :yh:
 
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Well, I like the micro-mini sure, but for me they don't need to be quite that small. I like using a CR2 or CR123 battery. Thanks! -Glenn
 

IgorT

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Which reminds me...

I have to go through some pics, so i can post Franco's new lazor next to a few of my personal builds... ;)


I must say i am very impressed by the 203BK diode!
I just hope i'll be able to find time to make one for myself soon as well!

Altho first there's an LG 8x lazor i have to make for Daguin!
Yet another tempting diode..

Must... Resist... :cryyy:
 
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Just hang in there Igor, you'll get yours soon. And I like the keychain with the pocket clip and metal button.
 
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I have a small problem...


I converted this micro-Keychain red laser to constant current, as a favor to one of my 6x buyers, but now i can't reach them anymore (email don't work :thinking:)...

If you are reading this, please email me, so i can send you your laser, and figure out what to do with the other parts that came in for you in the meanwhile...

Hiya Igor,

This isn't related to my "favours" is it? Email's working as far as I can tell, but just in case... :)

Cheers, CC
 

IgorT

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I think i must have just taken the worst beamshots ever... And i wasn't even in a hurry..

Franco was kind enough to let me "play" with his laser a little before shipping it, test how it burns, how the v3 Heatsink/Module handles the heat dissipation at these powers, take photos and whatnot, but..

I forgot to turn the macro setting OFF... :yabbem:

I filled up the camera's memory with photos but didn't check them until it was too late..


These are the best i could find among ~100. Under normal circumstances most if not all of these would have been weeded out (interrupted or unevenly fogged beams), but i have nothing else, so they'll have to do until the new 8x lands in Italy..




In the photos i used the following lasers:
- 175mW - H. wl. GGW - Keychain host - Short FL acrylic lens (low efficiency 6x diode, weeded out during pre-testing, kept for wl.)
- 205mW - H. wl. Nichia - Keychain host - AixiZ acrylic lens (100mW CW Nichia LD405120H7J - high wl. and eff. compared to GGWs)
- 265mW - H. wl. GGW - v3 HS/M Romisen - Medium FL custom lens (super-freak 6x diode, both in efficiency and wl.)
- 418mW - N. wl. 203BK - v3 HS/M Romisen - Jay's 405-G-1 lens (high eff. 203BK 8x in comparison to available data)


I expected to see more difference in beam brightness, but the camera seems to have agreed with my eyes - the extremelly high wavelengths of the GGWs have visually almost made up for the power difference.

Just like my very first GGW which i got from a drive, Franco's 8x diode has a normal wavelength...


Of course when one of the beams would hit me during the photo-shoot, confusing them was a "little" harder... The 8x burnt me through a shirt i expected to reflect the beams..


Anyway, here they are.


P.S. The photo-shoot took quite a while to fill up the memory card. The two keychains were "hot" (in human terms) in the end, i measured them at 38 and 43°C..
The v3 Romisens remained cool the entire time. The 8x, while obviously (with a 50% higher current!) slightly warmer than the 6x, was still under 30°C...
 

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