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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Thermite

Joined
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Unfortunately I don't have access to an oxy/ace torch.

Today I finally received the oxide. The color is a very deep red, the one I had made looked more of a brownish red (more "earthy"). Strangely it isn't attracted by magnets (mine was, and AFAIK it should be ferromagnetic).

I performed the same 20g test and it behaved pretty much like the last one. Slightly more explosive, perhaps. I think it spilled a lot of unburnt powder. I'm inclined to believe this is more due to the thin Al powder (mesh 425) and the crappy plastic container than to impurities. The iron blobs were all over the place but at least it made a hole on the can!


can.jpg


I also asked an uncle of mine that worked many decades as an engineer on a steel company and he said there's no chance of having vanadium on rebars, because they use the cheapest steel possible.

So, what do you guys think? Is the oxide I bought good enough?
 
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Joined
Jul 20, 2013
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Unfortunately I don't have access to an oxy/ace torch.

Today I finally received the oxide. The color is a very deep red, the one I had made looked more of a brownish red (more "earthy"). Strangely it isn't attracted by magnets (mine was, and AFAIK it should be ferromagnetic).

I performed the same 20g test and it behaved pretty much like the last one. Slightly more explosive, perhaps. I think it spilled a lot of unburnt powder. I'm inclined to believe this is more due to the thin Al powder (mesh 425) and the crappy plastic container than to impurities. The iron blobs were all over the place but at least it made a hole on the can!


can.jpg


I also asked an uncle of mine that worked many decades as an engineer on a steel company and he said there's no chance of having vanadium on rebars, because they use the cheapest steel possible.

So, what do you guys think? Is the oxide I bought good enough?

Great job finding a suitable sample of iron oxide and great reaction! I love watching high energy reactions go haha I watch youtube videos of those salts in the water and the thermite over the ice all the time lol

Back to the baking soda decomposition.....
You don't need an acetylene torch to reach 200 degrees C. If you go to a hardware store, they will have a heat gun that will get well up to 392 degrees and beyond. Good thing is that they are under 20 dollars and there is a lower risk than using a torch. Here's one i found on amazon for 15 bucks! and it's Prime eligible!
Pit Bull CHIGH0012 Pit Bull CHIGH0012 Electric Heat Gun - Amazon.com

anyways....buying the chemicals is usually more cost effective but is definitely not as fun and you don't always get what you want. as the old saying goes, if you want something done right, you better do it yourself....

good job with burning a hole through that metal! it was a very short reaction but it still had the energy to melt that metal....amazing! haha :beer::beer:
 
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Thanks!

Not sure I'll keep doing the electrolysis, too much work for too little oxide.
 
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Thanks!

Not sure I'll keep doing the electrolysis, too much work for too little oxide.

Awh! Doing the electrolysis is half the fun! I'm going to try out this baking soda reaction myself and then let you know how it goes!
 
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Here is a video showing about ~300g of 60/40 CuO + Al powder. It's being initiated via 7.62mm rifle bullet from a Vz58-SA.
It's flash set just about everything on fire from a 25ft distance. This is not visible in the video. The tire underneath was burning and all the leftover paper targets on the backstop were thoroughly burnt to a crisp.

I would estimate the Dvol for CuO/Al to be around 1500m/sec.
In several high speed shots there is also a visible shockwave that formed ahead of the flash. It makes me very curious.

There is an audible concussion moments after the rifle was fired. This is from the vapourized metal burning at supersonic speeds.


enjoy.


Here is a little video showing a compressed version of the same mix, only initiated via a #5 blasting cap.
The reaction progression is supersonic! Hence a detonation occurs.

 

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I was finally able to source some aluminium powder today.

I mixed based on the 8:3 weight ratio, put it in a small paper cup, stuck a magnesium ribbon in, ignited it, and nothing...

The magnesium folded over itself while melting and burnt the paper cup, but failed to ignite the thermite.

Do I have the right ingredients? The people selling iron (III) oxide and aluminium powder weren't too sure.

3ws7.jpg
 
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Picture looks ok , they look like AL and iron oxide ( III ) , With a ratio of 1:3 aluminium / iron oxide ( 10 grams / 30 grams ) try that first making sure they are mixed well , then try the ribbon method again .

Magnesium doesn't always work for thermite , try a few pieces side by side to give more heat off when they burn .
 
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Great, thanks for your help. I mixed the two thoroughly with a fork and the mixture looked quite uniform.

I'll put some more magnesium on the surface of the thermite. Magnesium ribbons seem quite sensitive; they will stop burning when they are on a surface. (at least for me)
 
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Don't mix with a fork. Mix with a spoon/flat surface for a long time to make sure it's well mixed. It's quite hard to mix properly, especially if the container isn't transparent.

As for the magnesium - after trial and error I had good results placing a long "L" format ribbon on top of the thermite without burying (I used the side of the container to support it). Be sure to throw small amounts of thermite on top of the ribbon without covering it completely - that way it will ignite those bits without being starved of oxygen.
 
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Thanks for the tip. I'll try mixing thoroughly with a spoon and use your ignition method and see what happens.
 
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Keep a distance of at least 3m. Mine was only 20g and I got molten blobs over 1m away!
Good luck!
 
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Gotcha.

I'll be right back!

hz29.jpg


yx9m.jpg


Edit: Nope, doesn't work. I've placed the Mg ribbon a couple of different ways, but it would go off whenever it touched the thermite.

This is what it looks like after the flame has gone off:

ih4y.jpg


Any ideas? :thinking:
 
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