URGENT: High Current PSU help

Cyparagon said:

It's a voltage operated high impedance input. It doesn't matter what the current capability of the power supply is. Just add a toggle switch between that and your 12V input. Or tie it to 12V directly.

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OK so i don't need to worry about burning out pretty much any switch i put on there.

KRNAZNBOY said:

OK so i don't need to worry about burning out pretty much any switch i put on there.

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Nah you shouldnt have any troubles or blow any switches unless you mix the remote and 12v+ ports up and put the main power to the remote, then all the current demand will be sucking through your small wire and switch and across to the 12v+,
But you wont mix them up:beer:

I remember a few years back i had a mate who always done shortcuts even though he had skills to do things properly and he had no remote wire for the AMP so he jumped a lead from the positive rear speaker lead to the remote line and...........it worked!
The amp even stayed on when no music was playing(between songs etc.) aslong as the head unit was turned on.
Dont ask me why, how, who, where, but it just worked, it was temporary,
but this is one thing Ill never forget!
Haha

RYDorDIE278 said:

I remember a few years back i had a mate who always done shortcuts even though he had skills to do things properly and he had no remote wire for the AMP so he jumped a lead from the positive rear speaker lead to the remote line and...........it worked!
The amp even stayed on when no music was playing(between songs etc.) aslong as the head unit was turned on.
Dont ask me why, how, who, where, but it just worked, it was temporary,
but this is one thing Ill never forget!
Haha

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Most headunits (expect for the really cheap crap ones under 20W/ch) have bridged internal amps. With no music playing, the DC level between speaker wires is zero but between a speaker wire and ground is 1/2 the supply or roughly 6V which was incidentally, enough to turn the external amp on.