[Solved] Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

Unless the grooves are deep, I would block sand it and not use paint.

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

I already painted it all!

If it only decreases its transfer rate by a little as said by Teej, it isn't that big of a deal. Plus, my Labby should be happier to be on an aluminum plate then wood

Edit: The paint did help to make the groves less deep!

-Alex

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

Yeah, plus if you feel like it you can always trace the outline of the labby and scrape away the paint should you need.

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

LeHap said:

I already painted it all!

If it only decreases its transfer rate by a little as said by Teej, it isn't that big of a deal. Plus, my Labby should be happier to be on an aluminum plate then wood

Edit: The paint did help to make the groves less deep!

-Alex

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You are too impatient and should have waited until this thread reaches page 3. :crackup:

Alan

Pi R Squared said:

You are too impatient and should have waited until this thread reaches page 3. :crackup:

Alan

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Penguins can't wait or else they will freeze!

-Alex

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

My guess is the paint will reduce the heat transfer by a large amount, the only way to know is to test with and without paint. Some paints might be different than others, I suppose, and thickness is a large factor too. With each change of medium is an increase in thermal resistance. For example; CPU to thermal compound to heatsink has higher thermal resistance (conducts less heat) than CPU direct to heatsink. Thermal resistance increased due to medium changes. The only time to use a heat sink compound is if there is poor physical contact due to uneven surfaces between the heat source and the heat sink, otherwise you are reducing the transfer, more so the thicker the material between the heat sink and the heat source. Your paint might act more like an insulator than heat sink compound which itself must be very thin to have maximum heat transfer, a home paint job can easily be much thicker than properly applied heat sink compound.

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

Metal Polish, jewelry polish, silver polish, any of the metal polish from wall-mart will work, it's just a micro abrasive and you can get a mirror finish on aluminum. I just apply and rub in circles with a paper towel. You can use the liquid or paste type. p.s. Don't rub any in your eyes, if you do flush with lots of water but don't rub.

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

Hum...

Below are the pictures of the "plate" itself, the laser head on the plate and finally the paint used!



-Alex

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

http://i2.wp.com/qats.com/cms/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Thermal_Conductivity_Chart_1.png

Well, if there is a lot of metal in their "metallic" paint, it won't be as bad as regular paint, I think... but I am not sure "metallic" paint is really very metallic. Take a look at the thermal conductivity properties of the materials at the above link and maybe you can get an idea of what something other than a few metals can do.

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

If you were to decide take the paint off you could use turpentine or paint thinner, mek or Methyl Ethel ketone will strip the paint off a car but you should wear gloves, I used lots of it and I'm ok .....ish, but the smoother you start the better, if you sand it you will scratch it, so you would need to use fine sandpaper then ultra fine, like auto body 2000-6000 grit but it will be slow to remove the paint, chemical removal then ultra fine sandpaper then metal polish.
OR, you could just use a razor knife and a razor blade and strip off the strips where your unit makes contact, then use some heatsink paste to bond it and leave the rest painted.

Honestly you probably don't need it, your laser head should be tec anyway, point a fan at it if you are worried about long run times.
You can run it as is and see if it gets warm and if your plate absorbs any of the heat, it's probably overkill really.
What's your lasers output? It's DPSS right? If 532nm then your pump diode will be about 5 times your output.
If it's yellow then you have a lot more waste heat.

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

RedCowboy said:

If you were to decide take the paint off you could use turpentine or paint thinner, mek or Methyl Ethel ketone will strip the paint off a car but you should wear gloves, I used lots of it and I'm ok .....ish, but the smoother you start the better, if you sand it you will scratch it, so you would need to use fine sandpaper then ultra fine, like auto body 2000-6000 grit but it will be slow to remove the paint, chemical removal then ultra fine sandpaper then metal polish.
OR, you could just use a razor knife and a razor blade and strip off the strips where your unit makes contact, then use some heatsink paste to bond it and leave the rest painted.

Honestly you probably don't need it, your laser head should be tec anyway, point a fan at it if you are worried about long run times.

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The heads are TEC, yes. I have a fan on top of the loft where I run my labbies hehe so it should be ok.

Would such a thing be ok for those pesky DPSS units as well? Am I harming my labby with the plate?

-Alex

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

LeHap said:

The heads are TEC, yes. I have a fan on top of the loft where I run my labbies hehe so it should be ok.

Would such a thing be ok for those pesky DPSS units as well? Am I harming my labby with the plate?

-Alex

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You are not hurting it, the tec pulls heat away from the diode and crystals mounting and the fins on the body move it into the air, a fan or extra aluminum base will not hurt it. It regulates its heat, now if you put it into a walk in freezer it might start slow until it warmed up, but a plate and fan are no problem.

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

LeHap said:

The heads are TEC, yes. I have a fan on top of the loft where I run my labbies hehe so it should be ok.

Would such a thing be ok for those pesky DPSS units as well? Am I harming my labby with the plate?

-Alex

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As long as it's not a hot plate, it's the same or better than without it.

Alan

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

^Sweet!

Thanks guys for the help

-Alex

Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?

RedCowboy said:

What's your lasers output? It's DPSS right? If 532nm then your pump diode will be about 5 times your output.
If it's yellow then you have a lot more waste heat.

Click to expand...

This particular laser output 151mW's of 655 diode light

-Alex

The plate, painted or not is a benefit.
Not painted and sanded with fine and then very fine grit paper would have been better though for maximum heat transfer.
You might want to place four risers/feet on the bottom of the plate. One in each corner. This way the bottom of the plate has air flow under it also to help dissipate heat.
I have made 2x2x1 wood risers/feet for both of my laptops and they work great.
Enjoy your labby