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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Larger Model 3D

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This time I zoomed in on the form...!

And changed the section where to post it ! I had an idea maybe valid or maybe not , if the laser module 12x45mm is wrapped with aluminium adhesive tape ,you can have a proper dissipation of the heat emitting diode , and the host that in part resembles the WL 3 can be painted both inside and outside with spray acrylic act at very high temperatures (I think it holds up to 800°C) then perhaps the host of hard plastic can anyway be used instead of the aluminum ones ...thus saving time and effort especially for turning ....!

Commented....

e6669l.jpg


122dtuh.jpg


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BobMc

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Interesting, why don't you try it? Put a larger diode in it, fire it up, and see if she holds up. That way you know if you were on to something? Best wishes :)
 
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diachi

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Aluminum adhesive tape for heat dissipation...? I don't see that working effectively, or at all...
 
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(In response to Diachi ) Is aluminium adhesive tape, is usually used to repair the flues of the fireplaces , and is designed to withstand the very high temperatures , not to mention a laser pointer should always have a range of power (total minutes) and the range of off (few minutes) otherwise if you hold it to long-on shortens the useful life of the diode ...!
 
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(In response to Badboybilly) I'm sorry that it considers interesting on my post , I hope that the next one is of your interest and liking !
 
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Encap

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This time I zoomed in on the form...!

And changed the section where to post it ! I had an idea maybe valid or maybe not , if the laser module 12x45mm is wrapped with aluminium adhesive tape ,you can have a proper dissipation of the heat emitting diode , and the host that in part resembles the WL 3 can be painted both inside and outside with spray acrylic act at very high temperatures (I think it holds up to 800°C) then perhaps the host of hard plastic can anyway be used instead of the aluminum ones ...thus saving time and effort especially for turning ....!

Commented....

The pictures look a little better this time---you get an A for effort to improve it. Still is not a good laser host compared to a ral, all metal version, either in look , feel, of function so... If you like it for what it is--fine. I would no expect anyone wanting a hand held laser to want it.

Alumininum foil tape? It not a matter of high heat ability material is a matter of thermal conductivity and thermal conductance.You want to wrap a thickness of foil tape which has poor contact around a diode then put it in an insulating PLA plastic host? How do you propose make good thermal contact and thermal conductance between the differeing materials even if they could work together?
"Thermal contact conductance is the study of heat conduction between solid bodies in thermal contact. The thermal contact conductance coefficient is a property indicating the thermal conductivity, or ability to conduct heat, between two bodies in contact." see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_contact_conductance

Could be done but would be so inferior to all metal host with excellent thermal conductance and cost so much more it is a sily idea.
In addition PLA feels light weight and looks not very good as well.
It would take more time and effort cost to make the PLA look correct/good than a real WL Arctic can be bought for.

Try it and see --maybe I am wrong. Wait a second let me get my tin foil hat first :tinfoil:

As was explained to you in post #11 here: http://laserpointerforums.com/f72/arctic-spyder-3-replica-100463.html
"It is not the melting point or strength that makes PLA a bad host material but the "Themal Conductivity" a most important property for laser hosts main material mass which for PLA is very low/bad for use as a handheld laser host for any output laser, low or high, use.

PLA has a Thermal Conductivity of ony 0.13 W/m-K which makes it an insulating material rather than a material that conducts, transfers, and dissipates heat.
PLA has about the same thermal conductivity as asbestos, wood, sand, or plaster--almost nothing --even the metalized forms, copper PLAs are only at best 0.4 W/m-K. Simply PLA is one of the worst material choices possible for any output power laser host from and thermal thermal conductivity standpoint.
see: http://download.springer.com/static/...1b584c4023cacb

Copper is 401.00 W/m-K so ~1000 times better than metalized copper PLA and aluminum 205.00 W/m-K. ~500 times better.
Good to excellent thermal conductivity of the ENTIRE HOSTS material is necessary to take heat away from a diode effectively for long rutime and long lifetime than very short life.
PLA with a therml conductivity f 0.13W/m-K is a very bad material choice for a laser host.
Even metalized PLA is worthless and a very stupid choice for laser host purpose/ use."
Were metal is needed and speciified , only metal will do. PLA will not. Try selling people on a PLA 3D printed bicycle or car--same thing for different reasons---PLA is inferior to metal where metals properites are needed.

Get a 3D metal printer or forget about 3D printing laser hosts---unfortunately, a 3D metal printed host will cost a lot more than it is worth and more than a real WL Arctic complete.
See video of good quality 3D metal printed parts here: http://laserpointerforums.com/f57/larger-model-3d-100482.html?
and here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEfdO4p4SFc

As was explained to you already the real genuine all metal WL Arctics only cost $15-25 each.
 
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The pictures look a little bette this time---you get an A for effort to improve it. Still is not a good laser host compared to a ral, all metal version, either in look , feel, of function so... If you like it for what it is--fine. I would no expect anyone wanting a hand held laser to want it.

Alumininum foil tape? You want to wrap a thickness of foil tape which has poor contact around a diode then put it in an insulating PLA plastic host? How do you proposto make good themal contact and thermal conductance between the differeing materials even if they could work together?
"Thermal contact conductance is the study of heat conduction between solid bodies in thermal contact. The thermal contact conductance coefficient is a property indicating the thermal conductivity, or ability to conduct heat, between two bodies in contact." see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_contact_conductance

Could be done but would be so inferior to all metal host with excellent thermal conductance and cost so much more it is a sily idea.
In addition PLA feels light weight and looks not very good as well.
It would take more time and effort cost to make the PLA look correct/good than a real WL Arctic can be bought for.

Try it and see --maybe I am wrong. Wait a second let me get my tin foil hat first :tinfoil:

As was explained to you in post #11 here: http://laserpointerforums.com/f72/arctic-spyder-3-replica-100463.html
"It is not the melting point or strength that makes PLA a bad host material but the "Themal Conductivity" a most important property for laser hosts main material mass which for PLA is very low/bad for use as a handheld laser host for any output laser, low or high, use.

PLA has a Thermal Conductivity of ony 0.13 W/m-K which makes it an insulating material rather than a material that conducts, transfers, and dissipates heat.
PLA has about the same thermal conductivity as asbestos, wood, sand, or plaster--almost nothing --even the metalized forms, copper PLAs are only at best 0.4 W/m-K. Simply PLA is one of the worst material choices possible for any output power laser host from and thermal thermal conductivity standpoint.
see: http://download.springer.com/static/...1b584c4023cacb

Copper is 401.00 W/m-K so ~1000 times better than metalized copper PLA and aluminum 205.00 W/m-K. ~500 times better.
Good to excellent thermal conductivity of the ENTIRE HOSTS material is necessary to take heat away from a diode effectively for long rutime and long lifetime than very short life.
PLA with a therml conductivity f 0.13W/m-K is a very bad material choice for a laser host.
Even metalized PLA is worthless and a very stupid choice for laser host purpose/ use."
Were metal is needed and speciified , only metal will do. PLA will not. Try selling people on a PLA 3D printed bicycle or car--same thing for different reasons---PLA is inferior to metal where metals properites are needed.

Get a 3D metal printer of forget about 3D printing laser hosts---not to mention a 3D metal printed host wrold cost a lot more than it is worth also. See video of good quality 3D metal printed parts here: http://laserpointerforums.com/f57/larger-model-3d-100482.html?
and here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEfdO4p4SFc

As was explained to you already the real genuine all metal WL Arctics only cost $15-25 each.

Laser engraving, plasma or laser fiber is great..! you're absolutely right ENCAP , I know that then I have to find someone who works in the field of fusion of metals , to bring the project realized in PLA and do produce aluminium ,by fusing many pieces of aluminum ....and make a cast only to exit out of the copy in aluminum for my project ! this would be the technique of policasting . Thanks ENCAP very comprehensive your explanation !
 

Radim

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Nice comment, Encap. I wish I could rep you again. I just wonder when 3D metal printing - sintering will become cheaper to find its place in hobbyist's garage and so. Might be point for project - to build such a printer. ;)
 
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Nice comment, Encap. I wish I could rep you again. I just wonder when 3D metal printing - sintering will become cheaper to find its place in hobbyist's garage and so. Might be point for project - to build such a printer. ;)

Infact , a 3D printer can build a 3D printer ,of course, the engine and block the extruder and electronic components must be purchased ...!
 





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