CLOSED - COLLECTING $ Dorcy Jnr GB - $15.00 Shipped- 07/12/09

charliebruce said:

If my design is right, then unscrewing the head section will slowly but steadily pull the heatsink from its resting-place in the handle section. From there the process would be as simple as unscrewing the set screw holding the module in place, pulling it out and replacing whatever needs to be replaced.

My GCSE coursework is essentially a Kryton-esque barrel, but heavily modified to accept an LED instead of laser diode, and with a couple of my own attachments, and using my own regulator instead of driver. Pics will follow when complete, of course, and I spoke to Kenom before basing my design on his (though it's a one-off project, and is reasonably different to his original design)

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Remember wiring, driver, and battery contact.

Peace,
dave

Mine *is* the perfect host - a Kryton

I've had quite a long go on the lathe at my school, it's certainly a vicious machine (but ancient - doesn't even do Metric threads) - I made a heat-sink on it last year, and another heatsink before that (see pic, sorry for the iPhone quality). I'm about a third of the way through machining the "kryton" barrel for my coursework (in the jaws of the machine, 2nd pic), but we don't have a drill-bit big enough for an 18650, and the boring tool is awful, so I'm probably going to have to improvise a bit. At least school covers the costs of all parts and tools - I wouldn't expect the aluminium to be cheap.

On-topic, I can't do any prototypes of this heat-sink until the 12th, but if there are any machinists with access to the new hosts and are willing to give it a go, feel free - I think a similar design could be done without much difficulty. I've had a look inside, and my design should be able to work as described, with the head pulling the heat-sink out. Furthermore, the thermal "path" from heatsink to body might even be better for overall performance, and id it's going to be a permanent installation, a coating of thermal paste between the heatsink and head would offer even more thermal bulk and surface area.

Sorry in advance for the double post.

Here's an updated view, adjusted to include the module and driver - obviously, the Aixiz module is in the brass-like colour, and the FlexDrive is there (shown as 10 by 14 by 4mm to allow more space for newer designs). On the highlighted pic, as long as the red section can be made non-conductive, there should be no issues with short circuits. This is presuming the existing "contact board" is used - if not, then the base surface may need to be made non-conductive, or the hole enlarged to accommodate the battery's "bump" with room at the edge.

EDIT: It's not a contact board, it's still a driver under there. Same point remains though - if you were to de-solder it and use it purely as a contact for the battery it would be easier.

The only lathe work I've done is on the wooden lathe, and we had to replicate a mini brandy bottle. The end result actually came out very well for my first try, it was pretty much identical.

Hopefully when I get some time I can get on the metal lathe, I'll probably give a host of some kind a go

That's some nice work you got going as well!

Is it just mine, or do the new batch of Dorcies only work with primaries and not rechargables (as torches)? It seems that the rechargable batteries don't make a firm enough contact for both of the ones I've tested.

EDIT: Blob of solder on the contact fixes this.

I received the new-style host form Dave today. I will have to make new heatsinks for them, no doubt.

However, (the good news), these heatsinks will not present any more challenge to hold in the head than the original DJR did. With the exception of the Second generation Full-Body heatsinks, all of the heastinks have always been held in only by a rubber O-ring that fit in the groove originally intended for the lens. Only the V2 FB heatsinks added a step that matched a small-step inside the original-head. This is no new problem for us DJR-builders, the old heads really had the same problem, there is no lip in them either.

Additionally, there actually is a slight reduction in ID after the lens-groove, at the very front of the head. It is only .005 smaller, but it alone is enough to stop a precision-fit heatsink dead in it's tracks. This step with an O-ring will be perfectly secure, even better than a original DJR because of the tiny step.

I know this will work because there are literally hundreds of DJR-laser built this way already, just a bigger heatsink will be needed.

I have to make sure I have some 1" aluminum-bar and source some O-rings that are the right size and of course I have some holiday traveling to take care of. Hopefully by the end of next week I can have a run of these finished and ready to send out, that is not a promise though.

Just give Dave and I a list of who would like to trade thier "Standard DJR" heatsink/s for one of these new version heastinks, when they are ready, no extra charge.

Barry

if i didnt buy a heatsink in the first place can i pay for one this time, or trade it for the silverbody heatsink?

Ah that's awesome news! Looks like we can all have some great Dorcy builds!

I'm in the same predicament as above, I already own one off your full body heat-sinks from before and had planned to use it in this host. But since the design has changed is it possible to purchase one of your new styles?

Cheers

If the classic's are being offered at the GB price still, then I'm willing to buy one. If that's not possible, then that's fine also.

bryce007 said:

If the classic's are being offered at the GB price still, then I'm willing to buy one. If that's not possible, then that's fine also.

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Same here, I really want to own the classic

i just bought the original dorcy at target today. so if its possible, i would like to order the heatsinks that were originally for sale in this gb.

mattmagic100 said:

i just bought the original dorcy at target today. so if its possible, i would like to order the heatsinks that were originally for sale in this gb.

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I checked my local target, actually 2 different targets. Both were out of the dorcy jr.

It would make my life easier if I could just purchase an original dorcy, but they don't have them anywhere in the UK.

i think there were 3 or 4 more dorcys and my target

Hey just caught up with all the posts in the thread. Thank you DH and dorcy for the cooperation. To be 100% honest I would rather a "original" DJr but I know this may not be the case, and in that situation I totally understand and am happy with the newer model.

I appreciate the GB and all the members that are helping out... If anyone needs anything or if I can help in any way please let me know!

All the best -Adrian

I can take either a new style or old style as long as the new style can still be used with the actual Dorcy boost driver already inside for my red LCC build. What is the plan for the non useable original style heatsinks?