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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

IgorT <200mW (6x) Blu-Ray unpacking and review

mgc8

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It was a cold winter day, the sun hidden behind a thick blanket of clouds that gave the city a grey, eerie appearance -- as I anxiously clicked the PayPal button in anticipation of my first high-power laser, one of Igor's 6x builds. Actually, at that time I was in vacation in a tropical country, which gave me the opportunity to spend way too much time on-line hence my arrival here at LPF... but the hibernal setting catches the athmosphere better.

Little did I know back then what a ride I was in for... you can read more about the whole ordeal if you haven't already in the original sales thread or the additional "tracking" thread. Finally, 4 months later almost to the day, the postman delivered the little piece of paper notifying me that I had a package to pick up. Alas, it was no surprise, since this time I had a tracking number and I had been hammering the postal services site daily, and I knew it was already here. But my anticipation didn't subside the slightest bit, since this was "the" laser, my first and certainly not last purchase in this fascinating world of lights. I had to wait until the evening before actually getting the package, but in the mean-time I also picked a shipment of goggles from OEM Laser Systems (I'll say a few words about them in another thread shortly).

So here I am, with a nicely wrapped package in front of me:


The other side shows the day it was sent, due to some further mishaps (long story) it spent more than two full weeks in transit:


Inside the package was the laser itself in a white box, wrapped in bubblewrap, and the box itself wrapped again. Also present where a set of TrustFire 14500 cells and a pack of GITD caps:


I must say I had completely forgotten about the batteries and when opening the pack it suddenly hit me: Igor had asked me if I needed an "emergency battery", and back then my order with DX was stalled because of the Chinese holidays, so I said "yes". He actually managed to ship a few of the lasers that didn't require batts, but for mine and most others he had to wait for a battery shipment to arrive... and that's when everything went south. So if it wouldn't have been for these little things I might've had the laser a long time ago, but hey -- it was much more exciting this way ;)

That being said, I sighed, took the set and placed it with my sizeable collection of batteries and chargers -- turns out that in 4 months one can get so many accesories for lights that a box is needed... I took an already-charged AW 14500 and returned to the laser.

This is the laser fresh out of the box, cleanly and carefully wrapped:


I checked the battery compartment for the sticker, and indeed, there it was! Great for Igor to have remembered that little detail...


So now it was finally ready for ignition:


Quite a beautiful sight, in all it's 191mW glory! And it's certainly fun to use it with the GITD cap as a sort of green lantern around the house :)

Ok, I'll stop with the pictures now and take some time to express my thoughts about the laser itself. It's a good quality host, and a very clean build from what I can see -- although I didn't open it up and don't plan to, so it's all outside impressions. It is very light, almost too light for my taste, but I must say the size is somewhat larger than I expected... I could be spoiled by my Lummi Raw (ok, I am), but from all the descriptions I was expecting it to be even smaller. Don't get me wrong, it's a very little beast for all the power it packs, just that during all the waiting months it must've shrunk to tiny proportions in my imagination ;)

Another thing that bugs me is the switch -- it's somewhat stiff and of the "reverse-clickie" type, and frankly I never understood why anyone would make lights with something like that. A forward-clickie makes much more sense to me, but alas I'm sure it's not that difficult to swap. As it stands, it does become annoying when trying to use it outside at night to point at things.

Apart from that, the host is well built, the threads are smooth and you even get an O-ring, although I wouldn't try dunking it in any case... I was a little surprised that the flashlight parts were missing, I remember seeing them in other people's packs and was looking forward to a little Cree to stick into an old incan... but that's just splitting hairs. I must say the GITD caps came in handy, appart from looking nice under UV, I used them to cover the lenses of my other lasers that didn't come with any protection.

And while we're on the subject, let's make a little comparison. My other lasers are a set of Mohrenberg's builds, a BluRay+Red in identical Coleman hosts. The hosts are great, heavier and slightly longer than the Romisen, but still pocketable. They also have a nice forward switch, however my biggest gripe wth them is the power source -- they need RCR2's, which are a difficult to find and a pain to charge -- with the Nano you can charge only one at a time, while a WF-139 can charge two with the required spacers, but you risk damage since the current is over 1C... Anyway, the lasers themselves work nicely, I'll talk more about that later, for now let's see some comparison shots:





As you can see, they're quite similar, and the same can be said about the output. The Mohr has an LG 6x rated at "<200mW" (he didn't have a meter at the time, and I don't either), while the IgorT is rated by him at 191mW. They both focus to a tiny pin-hole dot, however the IgorT remains tighter even at longer distances, the Mohr seems to diverge somewhat. Burning power also appears identical, I tried moving a piece of cardboard in front of them and the burning marks matched exactly. I can't say anything about run-time, I haven't exhausted any one of them yet... They both seem cool to the touch and get only slightly warm after a minute or two of running.

Now, about the beam... they are both equally visible in a dark room, and quite impressive. IgorT said he used a special high-wavelength diode in mine, and it sure looks bright -- however I haven't played around too much since I need to take the goggles off to see the beam and inside that tends to be dangerous. I'll see if I have some time to get out at night and test them in a park, however I'm quite busy at the moment so I don't know when I'll be able too.

To wrap things up, here are a couple more close-up pics:



Edit: After advice from fellow LPF'ers I managed to get some decent beam-shots... You'll notice I played with the camera settings quite a bit while trying to get a good picture; also remember that no smoke/fog/etc. was used for these. Enjoy!

The Mohrenberg next to the IgorT, at 2s/F5/ISO1600:


Mohr on the left, IgorT on the right, at 20s/F11/ISO800 -- this one is interesting because it captures the fluorescence in a few white objects:


The Mohr just "died' when taking this pic (I guess the batteries ran out, it reduced the intensity to a minimum), so here is only the IgorT (8s/F13/ISO1600):


Here we have the Red Mohrenberg at <300mW next to the IgorT -- the difference in power and wavelength is overwhelming, it's like the BluRay was turned off :) interestingly enough, even though the beam is much more intense with the Red, it's burning ability is not so great with non-black materials (8s/F20/ISO1600):


And a las pic with just the Red -- even with lower sensitivity it's very bright (8s/F11/ISO800):



I think that about covers it... If you think I missed anything or you have some advice as to better beam-catching, I'm all ears!

Best regards,
Mihnea
 
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Very nice complete.. honest and well written Review...:gj:

Jerry
 
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As for the beamshots, I must say I got very frustrated trying to capture at least a trace of one!

Hey,

first off, CONGRATULATIONS / welcome to the club :gh: and secondly, very nice review :beer:

Last but not least, I noticed it's much easier to take beam shots when facing the laser (and not in the direction of the wall where the beam is projected).

Just set up the camera ~2-3M away from the laser(s) and have the camera on a tripod so that it is roughly 30~40cm "above" the line of the beams. Clearly you need to be careful that your camera and your field of view are well above the beam at all times to avoid accidental direct exposure!!! But if you are disciplined enough when dealing with your laser(s) then it is not a problem.

Smoke clearly adds to the image but it is not absolutely necessary. The first image below was without any smoke and the second one is with (a little bit of smoke from blowing out a candle). Both were roughly 8s exposures at f/8 (manually set).
 

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Joined
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Hey Traveller...
I really like your 1st 7 (almost 8) Beam Shot Photo....:cool:

Jerry
 

mgc8

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Last but not least, I noticed it's much easier to take beam shots when facing the laser (and not in the direction of the wall where the beam is projected).

Thanks for the kind words, Traveller and LaserBee, much appreciated!

As for the photos, I'll see if I can fix a similar setup to the one in the first pic, and put those hints to good use! But I need to wait for the planet to rotate a little first ;)

All the best!
 
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Although dunking a IgorT laser is definately not recommended, I did fall into my swimming pool with one, :eek: (a Rominsen build) last summer, and I jumped to to dry it off, it didn't get wet on the inside, and it is still fine, I use it a lot.
 

murrat

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Nice review :)
Happy to hear that one more of us got his laser.
I think 8 of us left to receive their lasers.
And what is wrong about reverse clicky?
What is the advantage of a forward clicky?
 

mgc8

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And what is wrong about reverse clicky?
What is the advantage of a forward clicky?

The "reverse clickie" means that from the off position, you need to press the button fully to turn the device on, and while on you can press the button half-way to turn it off momentarily. I don't see much use for this, except maybe if you want to engrave something and need to "pause" the laser from letter to letter :whistle:

The "forward" version however is exactly the opposite: from off you can press half-way to turn the device momentarily on, and if you press all the way it "locks". This is the way most "tactical" flashlights work, and I find it very useful in our situation when walking outside at night for example, to point towards various objects in search of fluorescence, or to point at a building or another, or at stars etc. Lacking this feature, you either need to keep the laser always-on (which drains the batteries and certainly isn't safe, especially at night -- you never know who can cross the beam) or turn it on/off repeatedly, which can be annoying -- and in this particular case the switch is quite stiff, so even more so.

But as I said, this is a minor annoyance and nothing to detract from the pleasure of holding such a powerful piece of technology in your hand :)
 
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This is the way most "tactical" flashlights work, and I find it very useful in our situation when walking outside at night for example, to point towards various objects in search of fluorescence...

Hey,

I agree that as a flashlight, reverse-clickys are silly and present no advantage (imo). I have Romisen's RC-H3 which has an (orange) forward clicky (but alas, a weak "P2" LED...) and that makes it much more useful.

However, if you just "rub" up against a DX Dilda clicky, it lights up the laser. Same deal with Dorcy Jr. hosts. Talk about DANGEROUS. No, I think that a reverse-clicky is perfect for lasers - unless of course, you have a supplemental key-switch... ;)
 

mgc8

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However, if you just "rub" up against a DX Dilda clicky, it lights up the laser. Same deal with Dorcy Jr. hosts. Talk about DANGEROUS. No, I think that a reverse-clicky is perfect for lasers - unless of course, you have a supplemental key-switch... ;)

Heh, I wish I had a laser with a key-switch -- I saw a few 3-5W IR lasers on sale the other day, talk about powah :D I agree that soft forward-clickies are bad, I only have one light that does that and one has to be careful even when carying it that it doesn't light up all by itself, of course if would be even worse with lasers... but most are ok, those you mention just seem way too sensitive. A "normal" switch would still require pressure to activate the momentary, enough to make it safe imho -- the Coleman hosts I have for the other lasers are quite right in that regard.

That being said, I've got more luck with the photos thanks to your advice :) I'll post a few more pics later tonight...

Edit: Pics added in the first post!
 
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murrat

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The "reverse clickie" means that from the off position, you need to press the button fully to turn the device on, and while on you can press the button half-way to turn it off momentarily. I don't see much use for this, except maybe if you want to engrave something and need to "pause" the laser from letter to letter :whistle:

The "forward" version however is exactly the opposite: from off you can press half-way to turn the device momentarily on, and if you press all the way it "locks". This is the way most "tactical" flashlights work, and I find it very useful in our situation when walking outside at night for example, to point towards various objects in search of fluorescence, or to point at a building or another, or at stars etc. Lacking this feature, you either need to keep the laser always-on (which drains the batteries and certainly isn't safe, especially at night -- you never know who can cross the beam) or turn it on/off repeatedly, which can be annoying -- and in this particular case the switch is quite stiff, so even more so.

But as I said, this is a minor annoyance and nothing to detract from the pleasure of holding such a powerful piece of technology in your hand :)

Now I understand the need for a forward clicky:D
I think my old viasho blue has a forward clicky. Other than that all my lasers have a momentart button(handheld pointers :) ).
Thanks for explanation:can:
 
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how much did it cost you for that build??
Those builds cost $260. That was "back in" February, but instead of 6X diodes becoming cheaper, they've pretty much all but disappeared... :eek:

Aside from price and rarity, something tells me it will be a while before Igor will be ready to build more. Have a look at Milos' Stingray IIs... which are also very nice builds :beer:
 




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