50mW aiXiz Green Labby

ElektroFreak · Dec 5, 2008

Brett Miller said:
Good point...and I should deduced that from the pictures. I would have realized it if I had been the one doing the surjury myself. Hey...I wonder...you you know if the AixiZ 50mw has such a "vestigial" lens?

I got my 50mw Aixis labby in the mail today. See the reviews section.

-Brett

vestigial lens? not sure what that is.. :-?

Brett · Dec 5, 2008

ElektroFreak said:
[quote author=Brett Miller link=1213471542/100#110 date=1228427767]Good point...and I should deduced that from the pictures. I would have realized it if I had been the one doing the surjury myself. Hey...I wonder...you you know if the AixiZ 50mw has such a "vestigial" lens?

I got my 50mw Aixis labby in the mail today. See the reviews section.

-Brett

vestigial lens? not sure what that is.. :-?[/quote]

Sorry...my fault for trying to use terminology from biology in the laser/optics field. I just meant as in an apparently useless organ or structure.

I just wondered (regarding that apparently useless glass piece in your pictures) if there was such a piece in the AixiZ module, which when removed, would result in increased output. The confusion was a result of a pedantic piece of conversation on my part. Sorry.

-Brett

*edit* I just noticed where you stated the module was an AixiZ/Snoctony...I missed that before.

ElektroFreak · Dec 5, 2008

[highlight]To make a disclaimer: I have only personally seen this done successfully with an Aixiz.[/highlight] The snoctony is identical I believe, and if so the mod will work on them as well. If it looks different in any way, though, I'd recommend running it by the forum before you act, since any differences could cause the mod to fail..

Brett · Dec 5, 2008

Do you or anyone know what exact C-mount 808 diode is in these lasers? When you took yours apart was there a serial number on it (so I could find a datasheet)?

My driver has apparently died already (after having mine for only a few hours). I heard a soft "pop" right when I plugged it in a few minutes ago - then no output. Although I can't seem to find any carbonized components, and no burned pcb smell, I'm worried it may have been the pump diode...but right now I have no way to test. I may have to run to Radio Shack tomorrow and pick up some parts for an LM317 driver something like Daedal made. I sure hope it wasnt' the diode that blew, although I can replace it with another 1w c-mount from ebay.

I went ahead and sent an email to AixiZ about this. It's weird how my 15mw version was so much brighter and more stable.

-Brett

ElektroFreak · Dec 5, 2008

Brett Miller said:
Do you or anyone know what exact C-mount 808 diode is in these lasers? When you took yours apart was there a serial number on it (so I could find a datasheet)?

My driver has apparently died already (after having mine for only a few hours). I heard a soft "pop" right when I plugged it in a few minutes ago - then no output. Although I can't seem to find any carbonized components, and no burned pcb smell, I'm worried it may have been the pump diode...but right now I have no way to test. I may have to run to Radio Shack tomorrow and pick up some parts for an LM317 driver something like Daedal made. I sure hope it wasnt' the diode that blew, although I can replace it with another 1w c-mount from ebay.

I went ahead and sent an email to AixiZ about this. It's weird how my 15mw version was so much brighter and more stable.

-Brett

Aixiz will definitely send you a new unit. They've always done me right in the customer service department.

If you end up not having to return the old one, throw a 1W 808 in there. Snoctony has them with FAC (fast-axis collimation) lenses, and that's what you want. The only thing you'll have to worry about is alignment. Before you remove the old diode, mark it's exact position by outlining it with an x-acto knife or anything that will leave a mark on the black surface behind it. That way you'll be able to orient the new diode the same way. Alignment is critical and there's a chance that after the replacement you get less output than before. There's no way to fine-tune the alignment so you're stuck with what you get, pretty much.

The quality control isn't great on these units and that's why they're so cheap. As long as Aixiz will stand behind them and replace defective units free of charge, then I'll be wiling to continue to buy them.

I've had one of my units powered up for over 1 1/2 months without any decrease in power or mode-hopping (that I've seen), so they can be pretty decent most of the time.

Brett · Dec 5, 2008

Thank you for the good info as usual. I have been wanting to order some 1W 808's from Snoctony anyway for building DPSS systems from scratch (starting out with the hybrid crystals), so now I have even more reason to do so. Plus, it just makes sense to start out modding before trying to take on a full project. I still haven't taken apart a DPSS module yet, so any tips like you've been giving are valuable. One thing I'll probably try to do is video tape the whole disassembly and modification procedure so I can study how a module can be reassembled properly without damaging alignment. making a scratch mark behind the c-mount diode is a great idea.

I certainly will continue to buy some of my equipment from AixiZ also because of the excellent prices of their modules, etc, and also the prompt shipping.

I've been waiting forever for my Snoctony 50mw to get here, and I keep worrying that it has been confiscated or something. One that gets here, I'll be more inclined to use Snoctony as a source for diodes, ir filters, etc.

-Brett

robjdixon · Dec 5, 2008

I want to buy them, but i have a Q or two:
- This may just reveal my incompetence, but i just need a cable that plugs into the mains?
-Do i need to solder the cable onto the board?
-If i bought a TEC for the driver board, would i just connect it in paralell with the driver board, or would that give it too much voltage?
-If it would, where can i get a 5-12v regulator

Thanks

ElektroFreak · Dec 5, 2008

robjdixon said:
I want to buy them, but i have a Q or two:
- This may just reveal my incompetence, but i just need a cable that plugs into the mains?
With mine, I just soldered the power cable directly to the pins on the connector.
-Do i need to solder the cable onto the board?
Yes, unless you happen to have the right connector laying around. Also, Dr. Maricle at Aixiz might have some connectors around. If you ask him I'm sure he'd send them to you.
-If i bought a TEC for the driver board, would i just connect it in paralell with the driver board, or would that give it too much voltage?
In my experience just mounting a fan above the power supply and module is sufficient to keep them cool.
-If it would, where can i get a 5-12v regulator
You can get them at Radio Shack, and you want either 7805 or 7812

Thanks

robjdixon · Dec 5, 2008

Thanks. Where would be a good place to buy a cable - i don't want to buy the wrong type.

ElektroFreak · Dec 5, 2008

You can cut one off of any broken/unwanted appliance. It just uses a standard wall plug.

Brett · Dec 5, 2008

robjdixon said:
Thanks. Where would be a good place to buy a cable - i don't want to buy the wrong type.

If you are talking about the power cable from the mains, I would just look around for an old appliance that has died or a lamp with a short, and just cannibalize that. I have lots of power cords in storage from various things I've disassembled for parts over the years from my other electronics based hobbies.
Usually I grab something out of a dumpster with a power cord pretty easily too.

Of course, if you aren't much of a packrat and don't have that stuff around, one other method is just purchasing a cheap extension cord from a hardware store and cutting the female end off...strip the wires and solder onto the aixiz board. But, I think it's better to have a detachable plug. Computer power supplies have a nice one, plus PC cords are cheap and plentiful.

I'd also suggest putting this thing in an enclosure for safety, and to keep from contacting metal and blowing the fuse.

-Brett

*edit* ElektroFreak -- I guess we were writing at the same time...when I posted I saw that yours had popped up.

robjdixon · Dec 6, 2008

Thanks for the help guys. One more question though:
- In the UK, the plugs have 3 prongs - live, earth and neutral. I need live, but do i put neutral on the other one?

Thanks

[highlight]Edit[/highlight]

ElektroFreak said:
[quote author=robjdixon link=1213471542/100#118 date=1228503814]
-If it would, where can i get a 5-12v regulator
You can get them at Radio Shack, and you want either 7805 or 7812

Thanks

[/quote]

On this site: http://www.rapidonline.com/Electron...w/47-3313?source=googleps&utm_source=googleps

It says that the max input voltage is 35v. Is there anything that can work with 250v?

ElektroFreak · Dec 6, 2008

It says that the max input voltage is 35v. Is there anything that can work with 250v?

If you're talking about using a regulator on one of these lasers, you don't need it. All you have to do is solder (or connect) the power cord to the driver board and plug it in..the driver is rated for US and European voltages.

Regarding European connections, you'll use live and neutral. Earth is not used.

robjdixon · Dec 7, 2008

I want to also have 12v from the same plug socket to run my spiro, and 5-12v to run a fan to cool the driver board.

Thanks

ElektroFreak · Dec 7, 2008

To do that successfully, you'll need to build or buy a separate power supply to power your motors and fan. I used a small computer power supply to power the motors and fan in my spiro that I built around one of these modules. Computer supplies provide 5V and 12V outputs simultaneously.

robjdixon · Dec 7, 2008

Would one of these work then?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=140271963156

Thanks for all the help - I know it must be a little annoying :

50mW aiXiz Green Labby

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