Wiring 4 Motor Spyro Help

So I'm building a 4 motor laser Spirograph.

I'm using four 1.5V - 3.0V DC motors, four 25 Ohm Rheostat Pots, and four DPDT switches.

I originally had it all wired up without the switches but had a couple of issues.
1. It would drain the batteries really fast with 1 or more pots turned to maximum resistance.
2. When I first powered it up, and the pots set to maximum resistance the motors wouldn't turn (like I would expect). So I could lower the resistance of the pot to get the motors spinning but when I turned it back to max resistance the motor would not completely stop, just spin real slow.

So I decided instead of using SPDT where it would only give me on/off, why not use DPDT (three way, center off) switch so I could turn each motor off as well as reverse the direction.

So I wired it all up. It works great going one direction, the way its supposed to, I have control over the motors speed with the pot, but when I switch directions of the motor it goes straight to full speed and I have no control over it with the pot.

Here is a diagram I drew (sorry I'm no artist) of how I wired it.



If any of this is confusing or if I've not been clear please let me know.

I'm guessing instead of wiring 2 of the leads of the pot together, I'm supposed to wire the center lead to somewhere else on the switch?

That diagram is terrible. Can you please make it look like a real circuit diagram rather than a bunch of pick-up-sticks? No, it doesn't need to be some awesomely created one created in a program, but some straight lines (i.e. vertical/horizontal), some standard symbols (like how your switch is supposed to operate symbolically), etc. would make it much easier to interpret.

Hey Kevlar....

I've already answered your identical Thread and same questions
on LEC yesterday and again this morning...

Read what was posted over there and use the Knowledge we
supplied...

Why do you think you will get different Responses here....:undecided:
Electronics is not ambiguous...

@ BB... that is what we call Point to Point wiring or Rubber
banding when producing a PCB layout...
I can still read it even though it is a bad Schematic layout...


Jerry

lasersbee said:

Hey Kevlar....

I've already answered your identical Thread and same questions
on LEC yesterday and again this morning...

Read what was posted over there and use the Knowledge we
supplied...

Why do you think you will get different Responses here....:undecided:
Electronics is not ambiguous...

@ BB... that is what we call Point to Point wiring or Rubber
banding when producing a PCB layout...
I can still read it even though it is a bad Schematic layout...


Jerry

Click to expand...

Jerry, which thread are you talking about? I want to read your replies as well.

lasersbee said:

Hey Kevlar....

I've already answered your identical Thread and same questions
on LEC yesterday and again this morning...

Read what was posted over there and use the Knowledge we
supplied...

Why do you think you will get different Responses here....:undecided:
Electronics is not ambiguous...

@ BB... that is what we call Point to Point wiring or Rubber
banding when producing a PCB layout...
I can still read it even though it is a bad Schematic layout...


Jerry

Click to expand...

I posted here as well because the knowledge supplied over there was my diagram was correct... but yet it still doesn't operate the way it should. I re-checked my wiring to the diagram and it matches.

I thought maybe getting some other eyes on it might get some different ideas of why its not working properly.

BTW, why are you posting in my thread here if you don't have any usufull info to help me solve my wiring problem. :thinking:


@BB, thanks for the link for the wiring schematic, I will go there and try to make is look more readable. :yh:

Bionic-Badger said:

That diagram is terrible. Can you please make it look like a real circuit diagram rather than a bunch of pick-up-sticks? No, it doesn't need to be some awesomely created one created in a program, but some straight lines (i.e. vertical/horizontal), some standard symbols (like how your switch is supposed to operate symbolically), etc. would make it much easier to interpret.

Click to expand...

Sorry BB, that is the best I can do without some software assisting me. Thanks anyway.