Seeking Guidance on my Ground->Up Laser Build w/Host

Hey everyone, This is my frist LASER build. Dont get me wrong, ive built and modified plenty of other things in life, Im not a complete noob when it comes to engineering and modifying things. Just a noob on the Laser building for now ha.

First off; I USED THE SEARCH BUTTON to gather what info I already have, but when it comes to my wording of things, and looking for answers, its not always easy matching questions someone else has asked!

For this Build I really wanted a 532nm TRUE 100-250mW diode; but I have found 532nm (Green) diodes are not the Cheapest, exspecially if you want one thats TRUE to its power rating... So im going with 445-450nm (blue).

I have a Host; Which I am using for the exterior shell only because I like the Key On/Off feature on the rear. It is an ebay laser branded: Laser 303.

There are TWO different diodes I am interrested in using:
- Osram PL450B 80mW 450nm
&
- 1.8W 445nm A-Type M140

After finding a Tutorial on the "Osram PL450B 80mW 450nm Diode" - ***(Being powered by 160mW) and people suggesting they would use it over the M140 anyday, I think for my first build that is what I am going to go with.

So i have found an "Osram PL450B 80mW 450nm Laser Diode in an Aixiz Copper Module W/Leads & Lens for $39. I want to buy that for most base parts and work around that with my host.

I have a diagram I drew up/ took photo of to explain my thoughts, but it comes with a Few questions Id like to have to have a better understanding of BEFORE I go buying/ building or throwing any money/power at!



First off, I want to use the 303's stock style for Focusing if possible, So the way it sits the Diode is about 15mm away from the "Adjustable Lens". First I think I should swap the cheap Chinese lens in the font out for a glass lens.
-Which Question one: Can I use the lens from the Aixiz housing because I dont to focus from the module itself, I want to focus from the factory head.

Next would be swapping the stock junk Diode Module / Housing out itself to the Aixiz with 450nm Diode I listed above. I want to keep the same style of Push button "power switch", So im not sure if i should use the complete housing with leads (No Driver) and add a driver to the leads, Or use a short housing with Driver intact?

Next I am trying to figure out If i use the front of the Aixis hosings lens, Do I keep the front attached with no lens inside? Or do I eliminate that entirely since I am not focusing from that piece?

And If it is/isnt possible to focus from the Front stock adjustments, What should my distance be from the new focusing lens and the end of whatever style (lense or no lense) housing/diode?

Last but not least, the Driver, I prefer the spring type that touches the battery directly, if possible. Should I be buying a special, preassembeled driver to power this at 160mW or should I/could I custom build one? Id like to stay on a stock battery size if possible.

Basically I want to take my 303 Laser and keep stock functionality, but rebuild the insides with better technology and higher quality parts. I put out my idea on what i want, now can it be done? and Is it AS technical as I am making it out to be? Can someone help me out with suggestions on Which type of lenses to use where for that? and what style of diode/module housing AND Driver i should be using to accomplishthis; if possible? I tried showing where everything is and sizes and dimensions the best i could with a ruler on the bottom to help bring sizes to scale.

Thank everyone so much, i plan on learning, As you can see I have tried. and Atleast didht just ask how to "pot mod" the 303 laser I already had!!! Thanks again, look forward to chatting with you all!!! Thanks!!

Your focus lens.....what ever you use....MUST be screwed into the front of the 12 x 30 module....no matter if the 12 x 30 module has a driver or has no driver. The focus lens cannot be placed 15mm from the module !!

I would just go with the 12 x 30 Copper module....with the driver attached....and I would go with a G2 lens.

I am unfamiliar with the internal geometry of this " Laser 303 " host. Possibly another member can give you some instruction on how to go about using this host.

Wear your Laser goggles and have fun !

Added thought....Incorporating a side mount switch can be done, but....the switch on your 303 unit is mounted to the existing driver. I am questioning the re-use of that switch. That may not be doable ??...I cannot tell from the pic if that switch can be removed from the driver board....and...if it can....how will you position the switch inside the host ??

There are units / kits avail from the member Jayrob which may be more user friendly for your first build !! See the section for sellers.

Beam Out

Thank You for the help. I have it drawn out for the most part. The end piece, where you see the lens (lens i suggested switching), stays stationary where the end cap screws onto. You can see where the stock module and driver sits, and when you turned the "end cap" (which is butted up against the lens, it focused (in stock form) by actually pulling the End cap, with the lens, out away from the module itself; about another 1/4". In the one picture of the tip i have drawn by the original module itself is what it looks like fully adjusted out.
But this helps me; It lets me know that no way will i be able to adjust the laser with the "front piece" on the host; and that infact this would not be a practical host at all then.....

Well as you can see that "push button" power switch is right on the driver itself, where a small "Top Hat" shaped button sticks out of the hole from the inside of the frame and when you push down on it it presses the button on the driver.... Ebay sells diode modules (from China of course) that are the same concept as mine in the picture, with a long housing like 30mm and an attached driver with a push button the same as that and a spring on the bottom as well for a battery.

They are cheap too, which scares me and leaves me with concerns in the "quality" aspect....

But im sure i could find some type of push button that would fit the hole; even if it isnt directly on the driver and i could always put a power switch between the drivers lead and the power source.

My main concern is hoping i could use the stock focus so i can keep the host complete rather then having to pull the top or keep the top off to focus.

There's always a way but is it worth the frustration. I've modified MANY hosts and have a couple empty 301 but haven't done anything with them as they don't seem mod friendly. I probably have a couple 303 units from a couple years ago but they are working units. I'll take a look later and see what's what with them.
I understand that the reason why you like that host is because of the keyed safety lock but an even better solution is to remove the batteries when you are not using it and then there is no issue and you can enjoy whatever host you like

Robles4242 said:

Well as you can see that "push button" power switch is right on the driver itself, where a small "Top Hat" shaped button sticks out of the hole from the inside of the frame and when you push down on it it presses the button on the driver.... Ebay sells diode modules (from China of course) that are the same concept as mine in the picture, with a long housing like 30mm and an attached driver with a push button the same as that and a spring on the bottom as well for a battery.

They are cheap too, which scares me and leaves me with concerns in the "quality" aspect....

But im sure i could find some type of push button that would fit the hole; even if it isnt directly on the driver and i could always put a power switch between the drivers lead and the power source.

My main concern is hoping i could use the stock focus so i can keep the host complete rather then having to pull the top or keep the top off to focus.

Click to expand...

There are SOoooo many ways to do things...it will make'ur head spin !!
If you want to use the host u have.....

See this link for a latching switch....which is a switch that when pressed....stays on....until you press it again...to turn the circuit off !

http://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Squa...w_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=13ZH53BPM4XZRBC3S3CV

So pitch the existing module with switch....and use this new switch...

The remaining challenge is:

* How to mount the module
* How to mount the switch

You will need an Aluminum adaptor. This adaptor will have a 12mm ID bore to
accept the 12 x 30 module.....and will need an OD so that it slips into the front of the host. Jayrob may have an adaptor already made ???

For the switch....hmmmmm....might need to open up the hole in the host to fit the switch button. Could just epoxy the switch in place ??? DO NOT get epoxy on the button....or u could lock the button up also !!!

ORrrrrr....just purchase a "Hot Option" kit from Jayrob to make a side button unit....I think he has them ??? THAT will likely be your lowest cost option and quickest way to a build ?? !!!

You may have to abandon the " Key switch " option....but then...IMNSHO...that is a nice feature....but....not necessary.

OH....you initially mentioned a 532nm diode.....so...and consider the...

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/osram-plp520

module from DTR.....Great true green color....very visible...tight beam for a multimode diode...no burner though....if that is something ya want !!!! Meh....getta propane torch !!

Beam Out

Hey guys sorry long time no talk. I had a question.
Lets say i want a laser that is cool enough to show off here and there. I want to be able to pop a balloon, light a match., maybe burn through some electrical tape or paper. ... Nothing crazy, not engraving on a machine or wanting to melt locks haha just fun factor with alittle bit of awww.

As far as my host.... Im willing to bail onthe 303 and use anything else i have like my CREE flash light which is a C6 twin... Ect .

My first question.... Is how many mw are needed to produce this effect.... And what determines if a beam will be visible a t all times or just show a dot? I have seen 80mw diodes look brighter then 1-2w diodes.... Can anyone explain the diode output to me?

Second.... My guess is when building a laser your first PART you buy is the.... Diode itself? And get your driver and power supply matched up with that correct? That leaves me with the selection problem....

Yes i wanted green. But blue seems cheaper.... Is one more reliable?? I dont want to blow bookoo bucks of my first build... Id like to understand it first and increase with builds... But Im curious what is better.... Like for example the two i chose above.... Is it ok to throw 150mw at a 80mw diode like i saw i , a youtube video. Or get the 1.8w and run it sliglty under max power? The diode to power supply ratio and total output is what i dont know/understand fully yet...

If you were to the build a laser and use 18650 batterys as a power supply... And you wanted to stay lets say... Around $50-80 total maybe $100 tops... And you wanted to shoot for a small burner like mentioned.... With a always solid beam. What main components would you use, and why? And can you compare it to one you would build thats way more powerful and explain the differences to me?

Thanks for all the help. I admit i am a nood to lasers. Not by any means stupid and uneducated or nonmecanical at all.... Just a real laser virgin...

M140 diodes from DTR. the one that cost
$83