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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY Laser

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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

moond0ggie said:
Wow! Everything in one spot,
It took me my first week here to find & read all the threads
& the sellers you linked to.
Great job! I bookmarked it ;)

pocketfluff said:
A nice job you've done here - pretty much all the forum and its members have to offer, neatly summarized.   :D

I wish something like this existed when I found this place.  :p

phoenix77 said:
MY MASK is off to you, Spyderz ;D You did a GREAT JOB compiling all of the necessary Threads in one place for a VERY EASY reference guide for beginners & pros alike, & nobody even asked you to do it ;) Now that takes initiative. VERY WELL DONE, & I also wish there had been something like this when I first found LPF, but there wasn't :'( BTW, I too bookmarked this page & put it in my FAVORITES SECTION. I think that this should be stickied for NOOBs that are interested in a DIY laser, 'cause this lays it all out for you, complete with AHEM,an ILLUSTRATION? :-? j/k You did a wonderful job that must have taken a lot of time to gather all this stuff together in one place. CONGRATS ;) phoenix77/rob :cool:

50Freestyle said:
Nice job! This is really great for alot of people who are just getting into their DIY's (Like me) because its just about everything they will ever need to buy or know all in one thread. Took me quite awhile to hunt down all of this stuff when I first joined. It is great for older members too because they only need to bookmark this page and have links to alot of parts. This will probably clear up alot of questions for first time builders and cut down the ammount of threads asking simple 1 answer questions.

This should definently be stickied.

Take a bow,  ;)

Thanks for all the kind words guys! It feels nice to know my work is appreciated ;)
I will definately be adding more important things to this thread.

I actually corrected the thing about Meredith modules. They are not interchangeable, but you could have them made to fit the meredith. I also added a couple of tips for the adaptor.

Once again, thanks! :)
 





artix

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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

Nice guide! But one question, How do you get the diode in more than flush? Do you have a tool for it? Can you sell me that tool? +1 rep for the guide!
 

daguin

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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

Artix said:
Nice guide! But one question, How do you get the diode in more than flush? Do you have a tool for it? Can you sell me that tool? +1 rep for the guide!


You'll need to get a little creative here. I use a compressed air fitting. Somebody else on the list uses the adjuster off of a bicycle brake system. I think Kenom ground down a tube to fit.

I first set the diode into the module with a "flat" tool, and then set it the rest of the way in with my air fitting.


Peace,
dave
 

artix

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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

daguin said:
[quote author=Artix link=1218324818/20#21 date=1218999738]Nice guide! But one question, How do you get the diode in more than flush? Do you have a tool for it? Can you sell me that tool? +1 rep for the guide!


You'll need to get a little creative here.  I use a compressed air fitting.  Somebody else on the list uses the adjuster off of a bicycle brake system.  I think Kenom ground down a tube to fit.

I first set the diode into the module with a "flat" tool, and then set it the rest of the way in with my air fitting.


Peace,
dave[/quote]

Can somebody just sell me a metal tube that I can use to press it in with?
 
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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

Artix said:
Can somebody just sell me a metal tube that I can use to press it in with?

The title says 'DIY'... why not Do It Yourself? Walk around the hardware store for a while until you find some little grommet or tool that will help you. I bought a hollow linch pin for $0.13, and filed the end down to make little knobs that stick into the indentations in the sides of the diode can... the filing wasn't even necessary, I just thought it was a nice touch that would prevent the tool from slipping or twisting.

This is going to be just one of the many places where crises of confidence and/or creativity will screw you in a DIY project. Don't let it get in your way. There are probably a dozen things in your house that can do what you want to do, if you look at them in the right way.

I'm not trying to be a dick about this, but seriously: you can do this.
 
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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

photongeek said:
Fantastic job Spyderz!!!
Thank you, kind sir!

Artix said:
Nice guide! But one question, How do you get the diode in more than flush? Do you have a tool for it? Can you sell me that tool? +1 rep for the guide!
You have to use a little piece of aluminum pipe that is small enough to cover the pins, but also small enough to push the diode itself. Go to a hardware store ;)

Thanks for the rep :)
 

Ryo

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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

I thought to add this to his advice..

After the wires have been solder on, and the diode has been pressed into the housing. Add some epoxy to the wires to do 2 things.

1. Prevent wires to pop off and short, causing driver damage.

2. Prevent the LD's pins from snapping off due to metal fatigue.

Of course just be sure to check the connections before you epoxy.. I used a multimeter in diode mode to measure the breakdown voltage. If there's short, it will show it. If it's a open, it would show it's open. Though BluRay diodes might have a higher breakdown voltage so some MM can't measure it. Even though it can't measure it.. the MM typically gives enough energy for the LD to emit low power light.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

Great guide, excellent work! ;)

There was one point however... "For a StoneTek diode, the current needs to be from 300mA-350mA." I recently got a red diode from him which, following this guide, i started to increase the current on the driver. I hit 240mA which after only 10 seconds turned the stonetek diode to a very expensive led. For my second one i decided to be more careful and ended up pushing it with only 130mA which was enough to get the diode to burn black paper and ignite matches when focused to a point.

Not sure if the guide is a mistake, theres a different batch of diodes or my meter was wrong in the reading (although i used both an amp test and a voltage through a 1ohm resistor test withthe same value)
 

daguin

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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

Viracocha said:
Great guide, excellent work!  ;)

There was one point however...  "For a StoneTek diode, the current needs to be from 300mA-350mA." I recently got a red diode from him which, following this guide, i started to increase the current on the driver. I hit 240mA which after only 10 seconds turned the stonetek diode to a very expensive led. For my second one i decided to be more careful and ended up pushing it with only 130mA which was enough to get the diode to burn black paper and ignite matches when focused to a point.

[highlight]**EDIT**[/highlight]  WOW dyslexia.  I saw 240 and read 420!  Never mind  :-[


Peace,
dave
 
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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

Viracocha said:
Great guide, excellent work!  ;)

There was one point however...  "For a StoneTek diode, the current needs to be from 300mA-350mA." I recently got a red diode from him which, following this guide, i started to increase the current on the driver. I hit 240mA which after only 10 seconds turned the stonetek diode to a very expensive led. For my second one i decided to be more careful and ended up pushing it with only 130mA which was enough to get the diode to burn black paper and ignite matches when focused to a point.

Not sure if the guide is a mistake, theres a different batch of diodes or my meter was wrong in the reading (although i used both an amp test and a voltage through a 1ohm resistor test withthe same value)
Thats wierd...
I drive my senkat diode at 350mA, and it is still doing fine...
 
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Re: Pro Tips w/ Spyderz: Building Your First DIY L

Spyderz20x6 said:
Where to buy parts for your first DIY laser:

Red Laser Parts:

Diode: http://stonetek.org/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=180

http://stonetek.org/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=192
Trust me, Greg (owner of StoneTek) is a great guy who's diode's are the best on the market  

Or, you could PM [highlight]TheMonk[/highlight], and buy a 20x open can diode for around $30...
You could also ask him to pre-install it in the AixiZ module...
You could also buy them here, instead of PM'ing him:  
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1216530258

Or, you could buy one from HighTechDealZ:
Kendall from HightechdealZ is also a great guy, with great diodes, and great prices!
http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=48
http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=49

Housing: http://stonetek.org/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=191

http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9

http://www.mi-lasers.com/cgi-bin/sh...hstart=0&template=Templates/SearchResult.html

http://www.mi-lasers.com/cgi-bin/sh...hstart=0&template=Templates/SearchResult.html

(note: you NEED the adaptor)

Driver: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1209418066
The lavadrive is a boost driver, which means all you need to worry about is setting a current. It will take input voltages from 2.5-5.5 Volts. If you are going to use 6 volts, solder the included silicone diode to the driver (read thread for more details). For the Rckstr driver, you will need to input above 5 volts, because it is a linear driver. Don't get me wrong, his drivers are great!
If you don't have a Digital Multi Meter, you might wanna ask [highlight]drlava/rckstr[/highlight] to preset a current on the flexdrive/rckstr driver for you. For a StoneTek diode, the current needs to be from 300mA-350mA. For a 20x Open can, 420mA is the sweet spot.

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1206947255
The rckstr Micro-Drive is a great driver, but the only difference is, for Blu-Rays, you need to input ~7 volts, and for Reds, ~5 volts.

Host:
You could use this one: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4171

A project box...

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1442

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3405

The Dorcy Jr. (do some searches on google, they also sell it on www.stonetek.org)  

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4171
This host is the best for a burning red laser, because [highlight]jayrob[/highlight] makes great heatsinks for it, which can be found here:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202452073

Or some other host that i don't know about. Those are all good beginner hosts! Try browsing DealExtreme for more hosts, because they have plenty.


For a PHR-803T, almost the same thing, except the flexdrive/rcktsr driver needs to be set at 100-150mA if you want it to last. I'm sure you can find an ideal host... You could buy the diode from [highlight]TheMonk[/highlight], or here:  
http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=50
Or here:
http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=51



[highlight]Pro Experience Laser Tip: NEVER USE A MAGLITE!!! THERE IS NO ROOM FOR A DRIVER AND YOU WILL WASTE YOUR TIME!!![/highlight]

If you are going to use a Rckstr driver with a PHR-803T, you need to input at least 7 volts...
Use these batteries:
These are AA: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3435
These are AAA: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.974

100-150mA is fine for these diodes, 120mA is recomended for a long life, but the burning power increases signficantly with 150mA. My blu-ray is set to 150mA, and it is still fine for a month now. If you want good burning power, go with 150mA, it should be safe at that current. Yes, a heatsink is required if you want to give the laser diode a long life, however, if you want to put it in a pen style host, make a duty cycle so the diode doesn't get to hot...

Here are some awesome guides by awesome users:

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1186966870

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1181635652

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1214285108

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1213668830

FAQ:

Q. ZOMG!!!:eek: What do i use for a heatsink!?!?!?
A. You could always make one out of washers, or if you have a lathe, make one yourself. You could also PM [highlight]Jayrob[/highlight], and send him the dimensions of the needed heatsink, and he will make it for you, for a small price of course. You could also send him your host, and he will make a custom heatsink, or if you have the 5 Watt MXDL (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4171), he already makes heatsinks for it :)
If you are using a Dorcy Jr, get heatsinks from [highlight]DarkHorse[/highlight], they are amazing!

Here are Jayrob's: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202452073
Here are DarkHorse's: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1215119178
   http://mysite.verizon.net/grall/darkhorsecustom/id47.html


Q. Oh no!! But what about soldering and desoldering!?!?
A. Never leave your soldering iron on the diode for more than 2 seconds. They are very heat sensitive! Put a blob of solder on your iron, and carefully solder your wire/driver/pin in place.

Q. But... what about polarity??
A. Buy a DMM, and test polarity yourself, lol... Or, you could use common sense and look at where the positive terminal of the battey connects to... and the contact that connects to the body is usually negative.

Q. Oh no!! What if i bought a bare diode? How do i get it in the aixiz module?
A. Press fit it using a vise or a c-clamp. Take the back end of an AixiZ module, stick the pins through the little hole, and put the front end hole over the diode... Gah... Picture:

291mjaf.jpg


Q. But Spyderz, do i HAVE to use an AixiZ module?
A. Well... YES!!!!!! Or you could use a Meredith module. These are better and will increase power by around 20%. Heatsinks designed for the AixiZ module will not work with the Meredith, but you could ask the person who is making the heatsink to make it fit a Meredith module. I know for a fact that [highlight]jayrob[/highlight] makes heatsinks designed for the Meredith also.

Q. I bought a Meredith module, and it won't focus very well :'(
A. When you put it in the 5.6mm adaptor, you want the diode to be MORE than flush, you have to insert the diode COMPLETELY into the adaptor. Here is the pic:

2u58dc6.jpg


Q. My blu-ray laser with in the AixiZ module won't focus very well, either :'(
A. If you are using the focusing ring, you may need to either take it off, sand it down, or attach it to only the top 2 threads with some kind of glue, or epoxy... Or, you could put an 8mm o-ring in there, to make some room ;)

Q. How do i set the current on a driver?
A. If you are lazy (like me), then just ask the seller to preset the current. However, you can use a DMM to set the current yourself! Isn't that amazing? :D
1.You need to buy a test load from here: http://rkcstr.googlepages.com/LPF
2. Connect the test load to your driver, like you would a diode.
3. Set your DMM to mV (yes, i said mV), plug in the red lead into the middle socket (the one that has the ohm symbol), and the black lead into the COM socket.
3. Put the leads of your DMM across the resistor.
4. A reading should show up on the DMM. Use this formula 1mV=1mA. For example, 200mV=200mA. Note: this formula is for Rckstr's test load only.
5. Turn the pot of your driver to the desired current.
6. GOOD JOB!

I thought to add this to his advice..

After the wires have been soldered on, and the diode has been pressed into the housing. Add some epoxy (or heatshrink tubing) to the wires to do two important things.  

1. Prevent the wires to pop off and short, causing driver damage.

2. Prevent the LD's pins from snapping off due to metal fatigue.

Of course just be sure to check the connections before you epoxy... Use a multimeter in diode mode to measure the breakdown voltage. If there's a short, it will show it.  If it's an open circuit, it would show it's open.  Though BluRay diodes might have a higher breakdown voltage so some MM can't measure it.  Even though it can't measure it... the MM typically gives enough energy for the LD to emit low power light.


Now, if you still can't do this, then there is obviously something wrong with you (jk ;D), because i explained every little detail... So, run along and build your first DIY Laser. Then give it to your girlfriend. Just kidding. Do what ever you want with it...

And, feel free to ask questions! If you don't want to make a laser, but buy one, PM me...

Your friendly neighborhood,
Spyderz20x6 :p


P.S.
Give me some good rep if you liked the great guide ;)

NEW TIP!!!
To get the diode fully into the AixiZ module/Meredith adaptor, you can use a .22 Cal bullet shell ;)
 




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