Looking for someone to meter my S3 Krypton

Tech_Junkie · Mar 21, 2012

I talked on the phone with an owner of a retail laser store today. (Dont ask who). And he said its not that hard making a 1W 532nm laser. He said WL uses cheap crystals that are larger than the typical crystal set. It makes it easier to pull more power, but the biggest problem is divergence. As we've seen with most of these lasers, (well, when someone will give us ALL the info), is that the divergence is high. IIRC one member said the beam coming out of the aperture was 3mm. Another one I read was >1.5mrad. Which, considering these are DPSS lasers, is very high. Higher than the 445nm multimode diode.

Second common issue is mode hopping. Because once again they dont use quality crystals.

If you think about it, even when using high output crystals, WL can barely hit the 1W. And the divergence is almost guaranteed high, and we've already seen mode hopping in a few. Once again we'd have better results, but some people think its OK to ignore them. But obviously WLs profit margin is large, and these lasers are still low quality. Even if they do hit 1W occasionally.

justdopey365 · Mar 21, 2012

InfinitusEquitas said:
Thanks for sharing the results. Looks like you did get a VERY VERY rare completely on spec krypton.

When you say you touched the sensor, do you mean the little black square itself? I'm going to assume that's that you meant...

Shouldn't throw off the reading much. If anything, generally the readings would actually be lower if you rubbed off some of the paint(as more light would be reflected instead of absorbed). I'm sure Jerry will chime in with more details in the morning.

Thanks for the help!

Is ~50mW of IR good from 1000mW laser?

Yeah, I guessed the same thing and I was expecting my readings to be lower. But they were "normal".

justdopey365 · Mar 21, 2012

Tech_Junkie said:
I talked on the phone with an owner of a retail laser store today. (Dont ask who). And he said its not that hard making a 1W 532nm laser. He said WL uses cheap crystals that are larger than the typical crystal set. It makes it easier to pull more power, but the biggest problem is divergence. As we've seen with most of these lasers, (well, when someone will give us ALL the info), is that the divergence is high. IIRC one member said the beam coming out of the aperture was 3mm. Another one I read was >1.5mrad. Which, considering these are DPSS lasers, is very high. Higher than the 445nm multimode diode.

Second common issue is mode hopping. Because once again they dont use quality crystals.

If you think about it, even when using high output crystals, WL can barely hit the 1W. And the divergence is almost guaranteed high, and we've already seen mode hopping in a few. Once again we'd have better results, but some people think its OK to ignore them. But obviously WLs profit margin is large, and these lasers are still low quality. Even if they do hit 1W occasionally.

What's the typical divergence for a quality DPSS laser?

Sorry for looking like a noob, but what does 1.5mrad mean?

What's a good procedure to see if my laser mode hops?

I'm not really trying to promote wicked lasers on this thread I just want to make sure I got a good laser.

Well ill try to get all the information I can from my laser tomorrow. I got the battery charging and ill include some 5-minute interval power test. And ill try to get some beam specs up as well(ill just do some googling later and see what wink sais

)

lasersbee · Mar 21, 2012

InfinitusEquitas said:
Thanks for sharing the results. Looks like you did get a VERY VERY rare completely on spec krypton.

When you say you touched the sensor, do you mean the little black square itself? I'm going to assume that's that you meant...

Shouldn't throw off the reading much. If anything, generally the readings would actually be lower if you rubbed off some of the paint(as more light would be reflected instead of absorbed). I'm sure Jerry will chime in with more details in the morning.

Watch the Video in Post #18.
He did not touch the Sensor's surface.
and you are correct about the reflectiveness...

justdopey365 said:
Yeah, I guessed the same thing and I was expecting my readings to be lower. But they were "normal".

I'm a bit confused... are you now saying that you also
touched your Sensor's active surface coating...:thinking:

Jerry

justdopey365 · Mar 21, 2012

Sorry for the confusion. I did touch the sensor head when I putting it away after the video....

hope its not too bad ...

electron · Mar 21, 2012

justdopey365 said:
Hello All!

I got my exchanged S3 KRYPTON 1000mW and I was wondering if anyone is close to Portland Oregon that would help me get another LPM test on my laser. I have the laserbee 2.5W USB, and I'm just looking for a second opinion to see if its performing as well on my LPM.

Thank you!

Very nice, I'm glad it all worked out in the end and they came through for you; those are nice numbers you got. I'd like to get one and compare it to the new Power Certificates they are going to start offering and see how it compares with my readings, since I have the same Meter they said they are going to be using for those Power Certificates.

I'd like to see a test done on a very sensitive Meter to see how stable it really is; still though your numbers are nice :beer:

Tech_Junkie · Mar 21, 2012

justdopey365 said:
What's the typical divergence for a quality DPSS laser?

Sorry for looking like a noob, but what does 1.5mrad mean?

What's a good procedure to see if my laser mode hops?

Typical divergence should be under 1.2mRad.

mRad is the divergence measurement. You measure the beam coming out of the aperture, and again at a fixed distance. And then you run it though the calculator below. That will give you the mRad number.

pseudonomen137's JScript mRad Calculator

To see if mode hops, fix the laser on a tripod, shine it on a wall ~20 feet away. Walk up to the dot, and see if its fluctuating. You want to see a clean round dot, with no fluctuation.

The modes are called TEM (Transverse Mode). A TEM00 dot is a solid dot, and is what you want. The rest of the TEMs are below.

You must use goggles for these tests. The goggles gives you a clear view so you can measure accurately.

For more info jump on Google.

EDIT: A DPSS laser has to be warned up to take proper measurements.

jakeGT · Mar 21, 2012

And the krypton is advertised as no duty cycle.... Soo a ten minute run should not be out of the question or harmful to your laser.

lasersbee · Mar 21, 2012

justdopey365 said:
Sorry for the confusion. I did touch the sensor head when I putting it away after the video.... hope its not too bad ...

I'm still confused....
The Thermopile Head consists of the Finned Heaksink and the
15mm X 15mm Sensor.
Did you also touch the coating of the 15mm X 15mm Sensor...:thinking:

electron said:
I'd like to get one and compare it to the new Power Certificates they are going to start offering and see how it compares with my readings, since I have the same Meter they said they are going to be using for those Power Certificates.

I find it hard to believe that they (WL) would spend $4000.00 on
a Laser Power Meter just to supply Certificates when recently they
asked us to design an LPM for them for $10.00 worth of parts...

Steve is too cheap to lay out that kind of money just for certificates
IMO... There are less expensive New LPMs from Coherent.. OPHIR
and others...

Jerry

jakeGT · Mar 21, 2012

If they start metering before shipping they better freaking change the arctics power class to a >500mW or else every single one will be under spec and proven by a power certificate. If the power certificates are "real" that is.

InfinitusEquitas · Mar 21, 2012

jakeGT said:
If they start metering before shipping they better freaking change the arctics power class to a >500mW or else every single one will be under spec and proven by a power certificate. If the power certificates are "real" that is.

I'm holding off judgement until we see, but I'm not optimistic.

Besides, what they will do just offer for anyone who does not get matching results to exchange the laser. That is after you provide video proof, and some other BS hoops to jump through.

Then there is the consideration that so few people will actually try to confirm the lpm...

This whole schemes smacks of WL marketing at it's best... would love to be proven wrong...

justdopey365 · Mar 21, 2012

electron said:
Very nice, I'm glad it all worked out in the end and they came through for you; those are nice numbers you got. I'd like to get one and compare it to the new Power Certificates they are going to start offering and see how it compares with my readings, since I have the same Meter they said they are going to be using for those Power Certificates.

I'd like to see a test done on a very sensitive Meter to see how stable it really is; still though your numbers are nice :beer:

Thanks!

Tech_Junkie said:
Typical divergence should be under 1.2mRad.

mRad is the divergence measurement. You measure the beam coming out of the aperture, and again at a fixed distance. And then you run it though the calculator below. That will give you the mRad number.

pseudonomen137's JScript mRad Calculator

To see if mode hops, fix the laser on a tripod, shine it on a wall ~20 feet away. Walk up to the dot, and see if its fluctuating. You want to see a clean round dot, with no fluctuation.

The modes are called TEM (Transverse Mode). A TEM00 dot is a solid dot, and is what you want. The rest of the TEMs are below.

You must use goggles for these tests. The goggles gives you a clear view so you can measure accurately.

For more info jump on Google.

EDIT: A DPSS laser has to be warned up to take proper measurements.

Alright ill do some calculations later tonight for the divergence, and i was wondering if expanding the beam with a magnifying glass would do the trick instead finding a wall thats ~20ft away?

jakeGT said:
And the krypton is advertised as no duty cycle.... Soo a ten minute run should not be out of the question or harmful to your laser.

Its advertised but i rather not risk it and keep this laser for as long as possible, i know I can get it replaced, but it wont be the same laser.

lasersbee said:
I'm still confused....
The Thermopile Head consists of the Finned Heaksink and the
15mm X 15mm Sensor.
Did you also touch the coating of the 15mm X 15mm Sensor...:thinking:

I find it hard to believe that they (WL) would spend $4000.00 on
a Laser Power Meter just to supply Certificates when recently they
asked us to design an LPM for them for $10.00 worth of parts...

Steve is too cheap to lay out that kind of money just for certificates
IMO... There are less expensive New LPMs from Coherent.. OPHIR
and others...

Jerry

The 15mm by 15mm, normally im very careful when i put it away and wrap it up in the stuff it came with but when i was wrapping it up, my hand slipped and touched the 15mm by 15mm(I thought it was called the sensor head).

Its not a big problem right Jerry? I don't sweat easily and i was my hands before handling the LPM and laser.

InfinitusEquitas · Mar 21, 2012

justdopey365 said:
Alright ill do some calculations later tonight for the divergence, and i was wondering if expanding the beam with a magnifying glass would do the trick instead finding a wall thats ~20ft away?

Yup, that would also work.

Also...

lasersbee · Mar 21, 2012

justdopey365 said:
The 15mm by 15mm, normally im very careful when i put it away and wrap it up in the stuff it came with but when i was wrapping it up, my hand slipped and touched the 15mm by 15mm(I thought it was called the sensor head).

Its not a big problem right Jerry? I don't sweat easily and i was my hands before handling the LPM and laser.

If the Sensor Surface is not shinny or scratched it should
still be fine..

Jerry

justdopey365 · Mar 22, 2012

lasersbee said:
If the Sensor Surface is not shinny or scratched it should
still be fine..

Jerry

Nope not scratched or reflective. Thanks Jerry

Here are longer data runs.

I like this run because it stayed 920mW+ until 225.

Any reason why you guys think my laser did not hit 1W like it usually does? Somedays it gives runs like this and others it goes up to 1.1W and stays around 1W.

Ill have to get back with the mode hopping one cause i broke my tripod though.

justdopey365 · Mar 22, 2012

UPDATE 10char

Looking for someone to meter my S3 Krypton

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