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Just a few questions! For my first laser Build

scareg

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I've ordered the Host
I've ordered a 803T Diode already installed in a Axizx Module
I've Ordered a Dr.Lava Flex Driver
I've Ordered a Custom Heatsink (thanks Jayrob!)

Ok a Few things I need to know!

1. What is a Test load what exactly does it do? Do I need it? Would a Multimeter Suffice?

2. How do I get my Flex Drive to 38ma I would Like my bluray to live a nice long life!

3. What output does 38ma give to my bluray? in terms of millawatt and will the beam be visible at night?

Anyway I've found this Forum to be Very friendly and enjoyable I can't wait to make my bluray!
Thank you everyone for all your help and information!
 





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scareg said:
1. What is a Test load what exactly does it do? Do I need it? Would a Multimeter Suffice?

I'd like to know that as well :)


But as for question 3, I don't think so. blu-ray is very dull to our eyes, you need a high power of it to be visible. The beam would probably JUST be visible, but not much... I'm not sure on the exact output, someone more informed would need to help you on that, but it would probably be around 10-15mW.
 

daguin

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scareg said:
1. What is a Test load what exactly does it do? Do I need it? Would a Multimeter Suffice?
2. How do I get my Flex Drive to 38ma I would Like my bluray to live a nice long life!
3. What output does 38ma give to my bluray? in terms of millawatt and will the beam be visible at night?

1) A test load takes the place of your diode when you set the current on your driver. You need it if you are using any adjustable driver. You do NOT want to have your LD hooked up while messing with the current. You will need the test load AND an MM. You use the MM to measure the output of the driver.

2) You use the test load and your MM to set and measure the current output of your driver (also see my 3rd response)

3) Your 803T diode probably won't lase at 38mA. The 38mA number you found is for the old PS3 diode. You can set the driver for your 803T up to about 120mA and still expect long life from it. At 120mA input you can expect about 100mW output. Beam visibility is extremely variable for 405nm. Some see the beam at 80mW. Some (like myself) have to have it above 150mW to see it. Also it is significantly effected by how dry or clean the air is. Finally, the beam is harder to see from the side than it is when coming at you or going away from you.

Peace,
dave
 
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Murudai said:
Would a dead diode work as a good test load?
yes, that is the best possible test load as it draws the same voltage as a real diode.
 

daguin

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sk8er4514 said:
[quote author=Murudai link=1217225491/0#3 date=1217236532]Would a dead diode work as a good test load?
yes, that is the best possible test load as it draws the same voltage as a real diode.[/quote]


IgorT has found that is not always true with the 803T diodes. Some dead diodes draw VERY different powers levels.

Peace,
dave
 

scareg

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Thanks for all the help one more question What would one use as a test load?
 
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scareg said:
Thanks for all the help one more question What would one use as a test load?
http://rkcstr.googlepages.com/LPF

the test load that rkcstr makes is pretty good. or you can combine a lot of N1001 (or something like that) silicon diodes together to get the correct drop out voltage that you need.
 
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sk8er4514 said:
[quote author=scareg link=1217225491/0#6 date=1217254217]Thanks for all the help one more question What would one use as a test load?
http://rkcstr.googlepages.com/LPF

the test load that rkcstr makes is pretty good. or you can combine a lot of N1001 (or something like that) silicon diodes together to get the correct drop out voltage that you need.[/quote]

The Rkcstr-test-loads are very reasonable, I would purchase 2 if you can, leave one set-up for red, and the other for blue, (easy to change though). [highlight]**Do not forget[/highlight], if you power up a Flex-Drive, (or any other Constant-Current driver), without a load of some kind on it, you will get to buy a new driver, (poof!).
DH
 

scareg

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Thanks DarkHorse I bought Two as well!
Thanks Everybody!!

1. Ok it says to measure across the resistor so in other words the two solder points on the resistor correct?

2. it says one mV = 1 mA so how exactly would one Measure a mV using a Multimeter all I see is V. mA, AC V, DC, and Resistence
so Im assuming that V. mA is what I'd use but if so isn't that just a Volt and wouldn't it be impossible to see 32 mV because a Volt is a thousand mV's?

ok so basically I get the Driver the, diode, test load, solder the the Test load to the Driver, disconnect the Red solder apply solder to the Blue solder pad, connect electrical source, test voltage with Multimeter across resistor, change mA with pot on the Driver till correct mA, remove batteries. Use the short pad on the Test load to remove electricity from driver, connect driver to diode and test to make sure it works? then fully assemble?
bleh to many commas

everytime I read the next post this project becomes more and more complicated!!! and more expensive!!!
 

mmykle

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scareg said:
Thanks DarkHorse I bought Two as well!
Thanks Everybody!!

1. Ok it says to measure across the resistor so in other words the two solder points on the resistor correct?

2. it says one mV = 1 mA so how exactly would one Measure a mV using a Multimeter all I see is V. mA, AC V, DC, and Resistence
so Im assuming that V. mA is what I'd use but if so isn't that just a Volt and wouldn't it be impossible to see 32 mV because a Volt is a thousand mV's?

ok so basically I get the Driver the, diode, test load, solder the the Test load to the Driver, disconnect the Red solder apply solder to the Blue solder pad, connect electrical source, test voltage with Multimeter across resistor, change mA with pot on the Driver till correct mA, remove batteries. Use the short pad on the Test load to remove electricity from driver,  connect driver to diode and test to make sure it works? then fully assemble?
bleh to many commas

everytime I read the next post this project becomes more and more complicated!!! and more expensive!!!

Heh, gues its my turn to help.

1. Your first question is confusing to me... I could probly understand it if you worded it differently or added a picture (a cheesy one done in ms paint should do). The resistor you mention, are u referring to the test load?

2. 1 mA is what current you are giving your diode. 1 mW is how you can measure how strong the beam is that the laser is emeting. 100mw is pretty good for a blu-ray, and depending on where u live u should be able to see the beam at night or at least very very dark areas (I live in San Diego which gets less then no rain, which means there is always dust in the air making my current 100 mw green laser exremely visible... although your eyes can pick up green light much easier so blue, rather violet, wont show up as well). Using the 1mA to 1mW would mean suplying your diode with 100mA would resort in 100mW of output power. HOWEVER, I personally think wherever you got that number is a bit much... 120mA would probly give you 100mW.

K enough ranting on Q2, the cut to the chase answer is, power your diode at 100mA, if you can't see it bump up the power to 120mA but no more, you don't want your diodes life expectancy shortened.

3. (k well u didn't have a third question, but you did have a third paragraph) That seems about right. Have you seen Kenoms short video on how to do all those steps? It's verry helpful: http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1120132/diy_dorcy_burning_red_laser/
Although I'm not sure if your using the Dorcy flashlight as a host, its still helpful to watch. I'm asuming youve also seen the post on how to install this very diode and driver into a dorcy considering you posted in the "tutorials, Help & Repairs" and thats where the instructions are. If not heres a link: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1214285108
 

scareg

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mmykle said:
[quote author=scareg link=1217225491/0#9 date=1217265758]Thanks DarkHorse I bought Two as well!
Thanks Everybody!!

1. Ok it says to measure across the resistor so in other words the two solder points on the resistor correct?

2. it says one mV = 1 mA so how exactly would one Measure a mV using a Multimeter all I see is V. mA, AC V, DC, and Resistence
so Im assuming that V. mA is what I'd use but if so isn't that just a Volt and wouldn't it be impossible to see 32 mV because a Volt is a thousand mV's?

ok so basically I get the Driver the, diode, test load, solder the the Test load to the Driver, disconnect the Red solder apply solder to the Blue solder pad, connect electrical source, test voltage with Multimeter across resistor, change mA with pot on the Driver till correct mA, remove batteries. Use the short pad on the Test load to remove electricity from driver,  connect driver to diode and test to make sure it works? then fully assemble?
bleh to many commas

everytime I read the next post this project becomes more and more complicated!!! and more expensive!!!

Heh, gues its my turn to help.

1. Your first question is confusing to me... I could probly understand it if you worded it differently or added a picture (a cheesy one done in ms paint should do). The resistor you mention, are u referring to the test load?

2.  1 mA is what current you are giving your diode. 1 mW is how you can measure how strong the beam is that the laser is emeting. 100mw is pretty good for a blu-ray, and depending on where u live u should be able to see the beam at night or at least very very dark areas (I live in San Diego which gets less then no rain, which means there is always dust in the air making my current 100 mw green laser exremely visible... although your eyes can pick up green light much easier so blue, rather violet, wont show up as well). Using the 1mA to 1mW would mean suplying your diode with 100mA would resort in 100mW of output power. HOWEVER, I personally think wherever you got that number is a bit much... 120mA would probly give you 100mW.

K enough ranting on Q2, the cut to the chase answer is, power your diode at 100mA, if you can't see it bump up the power to 120mA but no more, you don't want your diodes life expectancy shortened.

3. (k well u didn't have a third question, but you did have a third paragraph) That seems about right. Have you seen Kenoms short video on how to do all those steps? It's very helpful: http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1120132/diy_dorcy_burning_red_laser/
Although I'm not sure if your using the Dorcy flashlight as a host, its still helpful to watch. I'm asuming youve also seen the post on how to install this very diode and driver into a dorcy considering you posted in the "tutorials, Help & Repairs" and thats where the instructions are. If not heres a link: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1214285108[/quote]

on question number two you think im referring to be able to see the beam when I am talking about how it would be possible to see a slight movement on normal multimeter seeing as a mV is 1/1000 of a volt were talking about the smallest movement of the pin. so how would one determine the actual mV on a Multimeter?

Thanks for the Videos they are very helpful!

The guide is Also helpful except no one explains exactly how to use the Lava Driver not even the pdf Guide on Dr.lavas site is Very detailed on it. well maybe it is but not from a First timers point of view.
 

mmykle

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um, I don't get what your measuring the mV for... what would you measure that had a low voltage like that? You're not talking about mA are you? :-?
 

scareg

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mmykle said:
um, I don't get what your measuring the mV for... what would you measure that had a low voltage like that? You're not talking about mA are you? :-?

on rkcstr's test load it says one mV is equal to one mA

heres the a picture of it
OH GOD THE JPEG ARTIFACTS!

xd8gw1.jpg


so which do I measure mV or mA and how would I measure them?
 
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measure it by setting your MM to measure voltage (V). voltage is easier to measure than current. if you want to measure the output current you can but it's tricky, you'd need to disconnect the load and put your MM between the connections then set it to measure Current (A).
 

scareg

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sk8er4514 said:
measure it by setting your MM to measure voltage (V). voltage is easier to measure than current. if you want to measure the output current you can but it's tricky, you'd need to disconnect the load and put your MM between the connections then set it to measure Current (A).

ok Thanks so an 803t drives well at 100-120 mA?
I want this to live for a long time at least 5 years but till I die would be good too. even if I don't get a viewable beam.

anyway Thanks again everyone I'll post some pictures when I finish it. all though it will probably look exactly the same as everyone elses!
 




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