Sigurthr
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I've toyed with the idea of contacting a machinist for simple stuff but never looked into pricing. Nice to hear it's that cheap!
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Anyone familiar with Attiny13 programming?
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rhd
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rhd
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Sigurthr
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[Insert Heavy Weapons Guy - "It's so tiny!" quote].
Awesome.
Awesome.
vortish
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I have learned a few things by watching this thread that i have wanted to learn! I have a couple questions and a couple things i would like to point out if I may!
1st question. RHD if I understand the build the coding is for the start up sequence of the rgb and it starts each color in series as to not over tax the power source and the drive. By having the momentary gap in the sequence say it lights the red and couple seconds later green and last the blue if my understanding is correct!
2nd question. what are each of the diodes going to be producing as of power is it mw or watts?
3rd and last question! Because of the nature of different wavelengths and the power requirements of them how are you going to get the required voltage from one or two lithium ions?
My thoughts! If your going to portable and more than 2watts at that size then you must be using a boost driver! I am still learning about drivers and stuff but here is the thing to get that kind of power I am assuming that you will be using some high drain 18650 or some thing similar over 3000 mah now with two you will get 7.4 volts and I know that 445 need just that to run over 1 watt! so is this going to be two parts? I mean are you going to have the actual laser assembly in one part and a separate battery box connected by a usb cable or some thing similar? I would think that if you used a currently available portable power banks such like the ones on FastTech you could reduce the over all size of the laser assembly. Mini In the Box has 20,000 mah solar recharging units for 40 dollars. by connecting the laser to that power bank you would get either one amp or rwo point one amps and add that to a boost you could theoretically get 3 to 4 amps of power!
The second thing is by taking the power directly out of the main laser you can save space for switches and the like.
Sorry if my thoughts dont have merit! I still learning and if I could do some thing like this that is the way I would go thanks for your time
1st question. RHD if I understand the build the coding is for the start up sequence of the rgb and it starts each color in series as to not over tax the power source and the drive. By having the momentary gap in the sequence say it lights the red and couple seconds later green and last the blue if my understanding is correct!
2nd question. what are each of the diodes going to be producing as of power is it mw or watts?
3rd and last question! Because of the nature of different wavelengths and the power requirements of them how are you going to get the required voltage from one or two lithium ions?
My thoughts! If your going to portable and more than 2watts at that size then you must be using a boost driver! I am still learning about drivers and stuff but here is the thing to get that kind of power I am assuming that you will be using some high drain 18650 or some thing similar over 3000 mah now with two you will get 7.4 volts and I know that 445 need just that to run over 1 watt! so is this going to be two parts? I mean are you going to have the actual laser assembly in one part and a separate battery box connected by a usb cable or some thing similar? I would think that if you used a currently available portable power banks such like the ones on FastTech you could reduce the over all size of the laser assembly. Mini In the Box has 20,000 mah solar recharging units for 40 dollars. by connecting the laser to that power bank you would get either one amp or rwo point one amps and add that to a boost you could theoretically get 3 to 4 amps of power!
The second thing is by taking the power directly out of the main laser you can save space for switches and the like.
Sorry if my thoughts dont have merit! I still learning and if I could do some thing like this that is the way I would go thanks for your time
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rhd
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1) Nope. These aren't starting up in sequence. There is no pause between the RGB triggering, so basically they'll turn on simultaneously. The purpose of the ATTINY is to provide a way to output not just white light, but also violet, blue, cyan, green, yellow, red and magenta.
2) I actually had a couple bodies made, so I plan to make a single mode RGB running in the sub-1W range, as well as a multi mode RGB running at closer to 4.5W (minus mixing losses).
3) There's no a chance that I could use an 18650 in boost config here, even a high drain Panasonic. For one, there is nowhere near enough space to fit even one 18650 cell inside this build, let alone a set of them or a power bank (remember, this build is smaller than a pack of cards, and needs to fit driver circuitry, three diodes, adjustable mirror and dichro mounts, plus batteries).The photo I posted is it - that's all the space there is.
The only way to get the amperage required in this space is to go with tiny high drain LiPos driving three custom buck drivers (controlled of course by the ATTINY).
vortish
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Thanks RHD for explaining that to me! I was not trying to be rude or any thing just really want to help and be apart of your very interesting project good luck my friend
rhd
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No rudeness detected 
rhd
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Nope, they're something measured in imperial. I had to go with what I could easily find screws for online, and it's obnoxiously expensive to order some of that kind of stuff to Canada without paying absurd shipping fees.
So I actually sourced the screws before finalizing the CNC designs.
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rhd
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Well, I've got the first RGB triple buck ATTiny controlled driver reflowed.
I hope it works!
How do I actually get code on this chip now? I assume it's not as simple as plugging the USB programmer in and getting a drive letter to copy the code to?
EDIT: Wups, forgot the photo!
I hope it works!
How do I actually get code on this chip now? I assume it's not as simple as plugging the USB programmer in and getting a drive letter to copy the code to?
EDIT: Wups, forgot the photo!
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vortish
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Rhd that is awesome! I would plus rep you but I have to wait (Sigh) Nice job
Sigurthr
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How do I actually get code on this chip now? I assume it's not as simple as plugging the USB programmer in and getting a drive letter to copy the code to?
Haha, nope. I wish though.
I've never used a commercial AVR ISP programmer, so I can only post the procedure I know. I use Arduino as a programmer. Here's my personal notes ad verbatim:
I'm thinking it's similar for your USB programmer, you just set the board setting to whatever board you're using.
rhd
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I'm sure there is some sort of code transfer tool that comes with the AVR programmer. I'll check out the eBay thread.
I've got a bit of time. I didn't like the way that first board behaved (I tested the buck drivers in isolation without an ATTINY attached). It was fine for the channel I was driving at 1A, but not great for the lower current channels at 200 mA and under. I got a little too fancy with some of the current sense scaling, and I think that was the culprit of the lower current channels acting up. So I've redesigned the whole board to use one of my more traditional tested and true buck driver designs. It'll be another month or so until the new boards come.
I've got a bit of time. I didn't like the way that first board behaved (I tested the buck drivers in isolation without an ATTINY attached). It was fine for the channel I was driving at 1A, but not great for the lower current channels at 200 mA and under. I got a little too fancy with some of the current sense scaling, and I think that was the culprit of the lower current channels acting up. So I've redesigned the whole board to use one of my more traditional tested and true buck driver designs. It'll be another month or so until the new boards come.
ARG
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It looks like the code written has Arduino library specific commands. If you do use a third party tool you'll have to import the Arduino library to be able to upload the code.
I would just use the method sig recommends.
I would just use the method sig recommends.
Sigurthr
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Sorry for not jumping in sooner. Life has been crazy here.
I know you deleted the posts but I remember the gist of them from my email notifications. You won't be able to use any Hex programmer, or any physical flashing device that requires a hex programmer or IDE (program used to program things in). The Atmel family chips (ATTiny, ATMega, etc) all require a specific type of IDE, and it turns out that the Arduino IDE is simply the most user friendly and basic program to do this in, especially since it is free, widespread, and has a HUGE support base.
I'll read up on your other thread and see if there's any more pertinent info you've let out.
I can certainly walk you through the process I use for flashing these chips, but you'll need a Arduino of some kind (I'd grab a UNO if I were you, but clones work just as well as long as they're functional).
I know you deleted the posts but I remember the gist of them from my email notifications. You won't be able to use any Hex programmer, or any physical flashing device that requires a hex programmer or IDE (program used to program things in). The Atmel family chips (ATTiny, ATMega, etc) all require a specific type of IDE, and it turns out that the Arduino IDE is simply the most user friendly and basic program to do this in, especially since it is free, widespread, and has a HUGE support base.
I'll read up on your other thread and see if there's any more pertinent info you've let out.
I can certainly walk you through the process I use for flashing these chips, but you'll need a Arduino of some kind (I'd grab a UNO if I were you, but clones work just as well as long as they're functional).
