Old 01-24-2009, 01:37 AM #113
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Default Re: Dorcy Jr. Diy RED ... Please help!!!

Jerry,
Check the link in the previous post. Machine work will be done while Daniel is on mid-term break and we are still on target for a mid Feb. unveiling. The samples should be sent out to K-9 and Daquin very soon, there are some logistics involved, Daniel in shool at one place and the machinist in another, the ideal is to rendevous Daniel with the completed Chunks during the break so they only need be shipped one time. I will be distributing to the US and Canada as wel as any where the freight is cheaper from the Us vs the UK.

Daniel is polishing the drawings for the Jr Chunk, for the Dorcy Jr. and that will be following on the heals of the release of the others. It has taken a long time to get here but once the first batch is out the brain work will be over and production will be as simple as a phone call to the machinist.

Daniel has threatened to send me a pre release Tactical Chunk, I will toss in a blue diode, flexdrive and post the results.
8-) 8-) 8-) 8-)
CMD


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Old 04-12-2009, 04:39 AM #114
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Default Re: Dorcy Jr. Diy RED ... Please help!!!

txcwboy, just throw together 3, 1/4 watt resistors together in series. Use 2ohm resistors since they are much easier to find.
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:57 PM #115
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Default Re: Dorcy Jr. Diy RED ... Please help!!!

Just to jump in....I have used a 3.6 or a 3.3 ohm resistor in the dorcy jr build. My current runs at 260 to 280mA with a standart CR123a battery and at 290 to 310mA with a RCR123A battery. I have a Stonetek 16x sony diode in it and it has been running for 3.5 months now and has well over 75 hours on it. I have abused the crap out of this laser! It just wont die. For instance, I have had it strapped to a 12 guage shotgun and I shot 50 rounds through it. It has also been droped several times and my run times have exceeded 5min on this diode.

Either I have a freak diode, or you are just unlucky.

FYI: I have another red 16x from Stonetek and it almost has the same stats as this one.
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:51 AM #116
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Default Re: Dorcy Jr. Diy RED ... Please help!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AusLasersSuck
Which one is easier?

This one or this one

http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/272/94/

Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmandoo
Not trying to hijack the thread, the reds with the flexdrives are easy and quick to build. I can build an LM 317 driver and I have tried AMC7135's but the flexdrives are really convenient and I am naturally lazy !
I have always machined my own "sinks and am eager to try out Daniels products. I can finally get a real " store bought " 'sink, I will be right uptown !!
I am just excited about the violets, the PHR's will be my first entry into the blue area.

I have been lurking around the forum, taking it all in. I have contributed to a thread here :

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/fo...2410;start=all

Catmandoo

;D ;D ;D ;D
CMD,
I am not sure you checked out the link in Auslasersucks' question that you were answering. The tutorial does use a "Flex-Drive" and a "store-bought" heatsink. So the question is whether is it easier to build using only the host, as described originally by Kenom in his excellent tutorial and videos, http://www.laserpointerforums.com/fo...num=1181635652 or to build using a DJR Full-Body heatsink and Flex-Drive as described in the "I-Hacked-tutorial"http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/272/94/. I know that this is a really old thread and post, but I keep seeing it come up and I felt compelled to address it for the benefit of new-readers.

I agree with CMD, building a laser using a DJR-host and it's original driver was from before the readily available CC-boost drives and custom machined heatsinks. It is definitely easier to build with the "for purpose components"and it produces a better end-product as well. It is however a great challenge to build using only the original DJR-build. *I Remember building one of the first with a PS3-diode in it, (I think Hemlock Mike did as well). And these "hacked-builds" worked better than most people gave them credit for, I still have my original Senkat 16x and PS3-builds, running strong. You can always try just the host and diode first, and upgrade the "guts" later, if you choose. Nothing to lose really, you would not be changing any parts that do not get replaced completly if you upgrade to a Flex-Drive and heatsink. It is all about the experience anyway.

DH

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