250mW red laser diode Death in a week

Sorry if I f*** something up here on the thread, this is my first time making a thread on this forum (I am kinda new to it)

Heres how it goes, I got a driver and host for it, I put it all together, all worked, I was happy. My diode should be driven at 300ma, It can handle 320ma with a short life so, I gave mine 295mW just for the "extra long life"

Well, Since my first driver failed, I soldered wires on the diode once because I was going to put a big heatsink on it for a lab unit, then I wanted a little driver, which didn't work, so that's 2 times I soldered it. And the third time is when I soldered the wires to the little little micro boost drive to the diode.
*note I had to unsolder from previous solders
I thought I was monitoring the heat of my diode to make sure it doesn't get too hot. But, maybe it did.

So, all was good, I had the thermal paste on the aixiz in the heatsink that fits in the host. But, the part that frustrated me was that my aixiz seemed small, and spin when I tried to focus it in the heatsink, so I put JBweld on the heatsink and aixiz But, I know this has nothing to do with my diode death.

Anyway, I was recording myself popping some balloons with it. I went to get another balloon. When I was done filling it, I turned it on, to see that it was just a little dim dot that I could stare into. My 1mW key chain laser is better.
So, that sounds like a diode death to me. The way it died upon turn on.

And my batteries are fine. Each was about 1.46 volts (2x AA)

Yeah...Death of a diode isn't cool. You can ask ANYONE here, who makes their own lasers. I bet everyone has killed more diodes than they have lasers that still work. I remember reading some people killing over 20, and only having 6 that still work. Lasers are very fragile, and killing them is just part of the hobby, especially when you are new to it.

I'm sure you understand the 60 on, 60 off rules. but in all honesty, I think what COULD have happen, is heat from soldering. I know multiple soldering can damage, as the heat is conducted up to the thin wires and so forth. Even at 300F, a soldering should just be a fast tap. Not saying this is WHY it died, but it's highly likely given the driver was 295mA set. I myself had 2 20X reds die on me instantly because i fiddled with the leads too long, and it went instant LED.

Sorry for your lost, It's just something to expect to happen until you have experience with many lasers. The hobby isn't the cheapest out there, as you can see. Hope you have better luck with the next one, Sorry :cryyy:

Where did you get the LD from (op) ?

It looks like you might be using a Micro Boost drive, which was designed to supply higher voltages needed by blue and violet diodes. As far as I know, it is not suitable for a red. You need a Micro Flex drive, I do believe.

Stick a PHR on it!

Sorry about the diode death. I'd recommend you pick up an LPC-815. They're dirt cheap, and an old stand-by 'round these parts. I'm driving mine at ~ 415 mA, and getting a quarter watt after an Aixiz glass lens.

I never did like the obituary section

Umm, somebody on ebay that my friend trusts. From what I have read, I am pretty sure I killed it from soldering too many times for too long and it shortened the life to the point it only had a week to live

I plan to get a LPC-815 and drive it at 380-400ma

Styropyro got a group buy of 300mW LOC with a minimum order of 5 right now.
I got 5 at his last, one and I can tell you that killing a diode is a lot less painful if you got spares.
(3 dead so far)

yes, that is a micro boost, but it is fine for red, because no matter what, the diode will get whatever current that I set it to. I could prob run my diode on a rectified and smoothed NST if its a 30ma NST. Volts dont really matter, what kills it is the current.
Well, my NST idea is a fail. Just maikg my point =D
I now plan to get a LPC-815 and drive it at 380-400mA
Thanks for the reply

proud2deviate said:

It looks like you might be using a Micro Boost drive, which was designed to supply higher voltages needed by blue and violet diodes. As far as I know, it is not suitable for a red. You need a Micro Flex drive, I do believe.

Click to expand...

A driver is a driver. It does not matter, if its a flex or a microboost. The only difference is the microboost can handle more current, and more voltage. Flex drive is limited to 5V peak, microboost, last i recall, can do 12V. Either way, it still DROPS voltage to make it run at 300mA. I had my red 20X on a microboost for 3 months. It died because I left it on for over 5 minutes once!!

Well, I do have a 150mW blue ray I wanted to stick in, but this micro boost drive is for about 200-400mA to make it precise when adjusting. So, my blue will not work in it.
And I do plan to get a LPC-815 very shortly. Maybe a few.

And yes, I have to agree. I just felt very sad since this is my first laser and it died in about a week

jbtm said:

A driver is a driver. It does not matter, if its a flex or a microboost. The only difference is the microboost can handle more current, and more voltage. Flex drive is limited to 5V peak, microboost, last i recall, can do 12V. Either way, it still DROPS voltage to make it run at 300mA. I had my red 20X on a microboost for 3 months. It died because I left it on for over 5 minutes once!!

Click to expand...

Alrighty. I stand corrected, then

Okay, Cool. I plan to make my 150mW vilet work once I get a driver and aixiz for it.
Then I will get a 1W blue, then make a green laser with a 1W 808nm laser

then make a green laser with a 1W 808nm laser

Click to expand...

That will be tricky.

jbtm said:

A driver is a driver. It does not matter, if its a flex or a microboost. The only difference is the microboost can handle more current, and more voltage. Flex drive is limited to 5V peak, microboost, last i recall, can do 12V. Either way, it still DROPS voltage to make it run at 300mA. I had my red 20X on a microboost for 3 months. It died because I left it on for over 5 minutes once!!

Click to expand...

A microboost should not be used with any diode that has a negative pin that is also a case pin unless you isolate the heatsink from the host and I believe this applies to all red diodes. The Groove 2 works great and is much cheaper.

It does not have to do with current or voltage.

References

http://laserpointerforums.com/f55/r...-taking-payments-now-48664-21.html#post781362

http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/micro-boost-loc-815-diode-55662.html

Juniortore1 said:

I turned it on, to see that it was just a little dim dot that I could stare into. My 1mW key chain laser is better.
So, that sounds like a diode death to me. The way it died upon turn on.

And my batteries are fine. Each was about 1.46 volts (2x AA)

Click to expand...

No offense meant but....
NEVER stare into a laser!! Even if you **KNOW** what is wrong, you might get supprised.

I have thought " I know what is wrong " many times before and been supprised when something else unrelated was the problem.
Not exactly with lasers, but other electronics, so why take the chance?

Good luck

Well, Not that tricky. All I need is a crystal and the diode. I want to try the crystal from my 5mW green just to test it. Then I will get a real crystal for the build. The only really tricky part is to align the crystal with the beam.