JetLasers 10X RCB

Hi Red ,
In the t shirt pic i posted this is at 32Ft. not 3.2Ft as written , Am i understanding correctly?
Rich

Lifetime17 said:

Hi Red ,
In the t shirt pic i posted this is at 32Ft. not 3.2Ft as written , Am i understanding correctly?
Rich

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Yes your shirt is at 32 feet, I was saying your best result would probably be setting your G2 to a focus at 3.2 feet prior to zooming in the 10x expander, that way you reproduce the 3.2 foot results at 32 feet via the 10x only it will not be a solid beam but a funnel shaped big to point.

If you set your G2 to infinity then focused your 10x expander to 32 feet your result would not be as good. :beer:

Red,
Ok got this thanks for all this great info it all comes into view now..

Rich

I'm still learning as I go too. :beer:

RedCowboy said:

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but if defocused the math means less power at longer ranges, you can get the power up close, but when focused at 100 feet your 10x is multiplying an initial focal length.

If my G2 is focused at 15 feet and corrected with a 6x pair and your G2 is focused at 18 inches then at 32 feet you have gone 20 times the original focal length with a 10x multiplier and I have only gone 2 x the original focal length with a 10x multiplier.

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are you sure about this? both my nubm44 and my 1W 520 seem to be able to focus to infinity regardless of going into the expander focused. dang you, now I'm gonna hafta check next time I'm home

The expander has enough range to make it look good, BUT....In my first test I had my G2 set to 14 feet and the expander burned that round hole, it was clipping as round is the shape of the expanders output and was not as strong of a burn. See pics.

This is with a G2 at 14 feet and focused to 14 feet.


And here it is with the same G2 focused to 14 feet and the 10x on top zoomed tight, maybe if I backed it out the bar would come in but I bet it would be bigger than 1mm x 2.5mm if I can get all of it, may be a big round edged bar. Focused it was round.


BUT....when I focused my G2 to 3 feet and put the 10x expander back on, then at 14 feet it was burning a 1mm x 2.5mm little bar INSTANTLY...all the power was there. I moved the wood around and it wrote in black char instantly.

Now the difference between a 15 foot focus and infinity is not but half a turn of a G2 if that, but infinity would have clipped even more, yet the observed output would be round, all the rest of the beam is on the expanders inner walls.

yeah when I use it, I make sure the expander walls arent clipping the beam. the result is an expanded rectangle but I could swear I can still focus the beam to infinity with the expander. i've gotten small spots with it this way at over a mile, I didnt notice any waist, or negative divergence to a point and positive after. it seems to be at infinity. i'll check it out later. very interesting

I'm still learning how to calculate lenses and the terminology, there's more that I don't understand, but in time I will get it right.

pretty sure you saw these, but here's my setup. big ass heat sink. of course, the ple-pro I got the expander with is designed for it. I can however use this focus adapter on most of my units to use the expander with them instead, but on all but this one and the dominator it looks a bit silly, as the diameter is very much wider than a 501b:

I like it. :gj: That way you can set your G2 and not throw it off when you screw in that adaptor, or use it as is with a flare hider, did you design that?
Did you machine the parts yourself or have them made?
What is the diameter and thread count, what tap do I need?
20mm?

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I had to see what kind of spot I could get on my NUBM07E and if it would keep up with my slide zoom 25mm lens and the answer is YES, I am taking a liking to this expander, and it attaches to all my mx900's with my unpatented polymer elastic stretch band method.

The spot was a bar about .5mm x 1.75mm with square wings on each side.





At 75 feet it was better to go with infinity focus and I got about a 1.25 by .25 inch line, but burning power was not there, but my cardboard target was wet.
I am going to have to correct a nubm06 and get it into one of these as well, try it head to head with the 3x maybe.....I wonder what parasitic lens loss this has?
It makes pretty cones.

Ehgemus made it for me before he quit. I had him custom order the 2" diameter copper for the heat sink and I explained how I wanted a focus adapter made for this, and sent him the expander adapter so he could tap the focus adapter. the little filler piece for when the BE is not in use was his doing though. pretty awesome. the expander adapter actually threads in smoother in this FA than it does on the PL-E pro it was made for.

I will have to build some dedicated hosts or incorporate a threaded top for the expander on future builds, but for now a jury rig will do. :beer:


This look so much better/sharper than my camera shows, the side reflects show a little clipping as I have my G2 set just a tad too short, it needs to be focused a little further out, and my rubber bands are allowing a tiny bit of sag as seem by the level of the reflects.



These are in my backyard, not the sky and we have a light rain starting.
All in all it's a very cool expander, well made with AR coated lens, I may by more after further testing.

Hi Red, gotta start somewhere. Beams looking good
Danny

that's one sorts issue with mine. hoding up all that weight is just the g lens in the module, but if I hold it by the head, which I often do as that's where the weight is, I can use a finger or two to keep the FA steady.

you say the g 7 lens are near the end of the module when threaded. does that mean if I swapped the lens on this setup, all the weight would be held even more tenuously?

VirtueViolater said:

Hi Red, gotta start somewhere. Beams looking good
Danny

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I like my wider longer FL slide lens arrangement that uses the natural divergence in place of the concave expansion lens, here I am using a primary G2 and an expander to re expand then converge, but the G2 keeps the window and in the 07e's case the emitter clean.

Here's the 07 with my 25mm 2 element 52 inch Hitachi projection TV scavenged lens, there is no primary, just the natural divergence and the 25mm lens made from 2 lenses and a spacer, it clips 33% (est.) but works better than the 10X



I could come up with a foot long 3.5 inch wide tube with a sliding compound lens and get some real distance and super tight spots, but I need to use an AR coated dust window for the diode.
O-like has some for 2 dollars each, 14mm rounds but I could not get an order through.
I know, email them, I will. :beer:

But even better would be to use cylindrical beam shaping prior to this expander and that new 470nm with the can/window is a prime candidate, I just want to know the divergence, then I will let this expander sing the song of the burning needle thin spot of shining blue gory.
That and a longer expander would multiply final distance, but these are made to work with a wide range and are by nature short, it's a compromise expander made to fit a range of diverging beams, but at 10x we still need to tune the primary, because if you are getting a round spot from a rectangle beam with a radically expanding axis then you are clipping a lot of your power.


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Shakenawake said:

that's one sorts issue with mine. hoding up all that weight is just the g lens in the module, but if I hold it by the head, which I often do as that's where the weight is, I can use a finger or two to keep the FA steady.

you say the g 7 lens are near the end of the module when threaded. does that mean if I swapped the lens on this setup, all the weight would be held even more tenuously?

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I would stay with the G2 but continue to build dedicated thread in adaptors, using the little lens as a support member is going to introduce a lot of misalignment.

Our builds could have threads for an adaptor that has threads to fit the expander, that way we can make other adaptors for other expanders.

I want to correct the wild divergence then make any threaded adaptor I want for any expander I wish to use, just a flat face with 3 threaded screw holes would suffice, then any threaded adaptor will attach by the 3 screws, add some set screws placed inward of the attachment screws and alignment can be trued unit by unit.

well, I messed up my JL BE. looks like a few times while focusing it i passed the focal point through the input lens, and the glass couldnt take the power. I've now got a couple spots were the laser itself damaged the glass. shoulda known I suppose. 7W is quite a bit