7 colour pocket spiro!

Yes indeed! It works very well!

I am getting very little loss using the stock splitter cube and turning mirror in the PHR sled.

I can get 105mW's of blu-ray out the sled after the splitter cube and turning mirror. Before the sled optics, it is 136mW's.

I guess that's about a 20% loss or so, but it is still very good. (IMO)

I am anticipating about 190mW's of blu-ray out the sled using a GGW 6X set at 180mA's and my 405-G-1 glass lens.
Jay

Ok, I am a total n00b to making lasers, but I'll pay serious $$ for someone who will make this for me!

Jay, how well is the dot quality at >50ft., the cube setup does not allow the full beam structure through and also causes scatter. I have tried "inking" the edges of the optics and lenses with great success. No offense at all Jay, I think your very talented and your workmanship is top notch, but 20% loss is not that good especially when it only took about 1 hour to bring 20% down to <10%. Why go through the trouble of using a nice glass lens just to cut it down by 20%!

Well, my first one is only measuring 20mW's of blu-ray after the sled optics because I did not have it oriented properly.

But I still have a nice color blend and a 50mW white beam.

So with this in mind, I don't mind at all having 180 to 190mW's of blu-ray (after sled optics) on my second one! Besides, I already have the sled part done. I don't want to take the thing apart and mess with the optics, because it is ready for mounting the lasers...

Plus I don't happen to have an old Sony CD player. But I think it is cool what you have shown!

About 'scatter', yes... the red and blu-ray have some scatter that is noticeable at distance. But only because I have the dots bouncing off a mirror in the other room and showing up on the wall 10' away from me. (75' round trip) I would never notice anything if not for that.

For normal pointing, the dots look just fine. (IMO)

And again, even with the PHR optics, I will end up with 350mW's to 400mW's of white beam! It should be in that neighborhood. No problem with that!

As this idea progresses, perhaps we will find the best possible splitter cube and turning mirror, and hopefully the optics can be bought easily. For now, the PHR optics seem pretty good to me!
Jay

Thats cool Jay I understand, just thought I'd share my findings. I really enjoy this build and I'm glad to have good people to discuss with!

P.S. I saw your post with the pics of your pool, very nice, and the Patron, thats all I'll drink when comes to Tequila. You have good taste brother!

Quality tequila is almost medicinal!

If your ever out to California, you could stop on by. I have some really nice ones in my bar. Most of the best ones I have were all gifts. Because I wouldn't spend $400 bucks on a bottle.

But anyway, I could walk you up the ladder from Patron... Medicinal purposes!
Jay

Thanks Jay thats very generous of you. I'll keep that in mind, maybe take you up on that offer some day. I'm planning to go to Vegas again next January so It would not be hard for me to jump on a flight to N. Cali from there. Do you know if it's legal to bring lasers on a plane (not carry on)?

Hmmm... I don't know. I would think that maybe they could get taken out of your bags.

I'm sure that somebody has a story or two about this...
Jay

I don't know why I didn't think of this before! I have an AK47 w/ cheap 5mw red a laser mounted under the barrel, but it's 4 way adjustable and compact. I have not tried it yet but by the looks of it if I take it apart and cut it down an axiz head should fit perfectly giving me a nice flat surface on the front to mount to the PHR sled and 4 way adjustment. I'm not going to use the one on my gun for this, but these things are cheap so i'll just have to wait and order some more. If anyone has one of these they are willing to sacrifice and try for this build please post any info!

That is a good idea for making it adjustable too! I think sightfx has something similar with his version 3 sled/module mounts:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/l...led-mount-heat-sinks-feeler-2.html#post538059

But I really like the looks of the 'finned' version of his sled/module mounts! Just as small as they can get with the ability to put an AixiZ module in there with a single set screw. Just like the green mount...
Jay

I agree the fin's on the V3 are very cool. But if you were to extend the adjusting cylinder to just past the rear of the axiz mod and use a rubber O-ring as a pivot for the rear of the axiz and adjust from the front, or else have two sets of srews front and rear. It's difficult to describe, I've got it all upstairs, but.....

Ramsey_innovations said:

I agree the fin's on the V3 are very cool. But if you were to extend the adjusting cylinder to just past the rear of the axiz mod and use a rubber O-ring as a pivot for the rear of the axiz and adjust from the front, or else have two sets of srews front and rear. It's difficult to describe, I've got it all upstairs, but.....

Click to expand...

That is exactly how version 3 is designed. All I am waiting for is a tap so the front can be put on.




Not as cool looking or cool running as the finned versions but I think it will be as adjustable. The rear is fixed to center by a button cap commonly used as a aixiz lens cap. The front pivots on 3 axis using set screws.

Personally I like the smaller set of finned heat sinks with the press fittings. I was running a red short open can at 600ma in one of the press fit sinks without knowing it for a while and it lived till I broke a pin. The heat sink would get pretty warm to the touch but you could still keep your fingers on it for 6+ seconds telling me that it was doing its job even under the high stress of over current.

Being able to rotate the diode doesn't seem to mater. The more I find out about the polarity of light out of a diode the more I think it is the same depending on the marking on the back (the polarity is always parallel to the N-P junction). I'm assuming that the N-P junction is always placed the same in the package but from what I have observed using different diodes they all work best with the V notches oriented at 6 and 12 o’clock to the PHR sled laid flat. That being the case you don't need to tune in the rotation of the diode but rather press them into the heat sink with the proper orientation in the first place.

You can of course get 3 of any type you want in a kit. These are just my findings and opinions.

Thoughts, Arguments?

Thanks,
-SightFX