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Please explain some electronic basics to me

borgqueenx

borgqueenx

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its about this product:
1W/1000mW Red laser module/TTL and Analog modulation [OL-R-1W] - $369.99 : Welcome to O-Like.com, Your source for laser products

I want it for in my projector. point is, that the page says it requires: Input voltage： 11VDC—13VDC.
but some text below it says:
Signal’s max response voltage is 5V (>5V recognized by 5V, it won’t effect
Negative voltage if response voltage not more than 7V)

so what is it? the driver automaticly gives it 5v or less or do i need to do things to give it 5v? and i give the driver 11 to 13v and then its fine?
 





bobhaha

bobhaha

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TTL is simular to a transistor or gate. When a 5V signal is sent to the TTL pad it opens the circuit, turning the laser on. When there is 0V (or lower than the turn on threshold) it will turn the laser off, even if power to the driver is constant.

Here is a quick pic I made showing the driver of a common TTL driven green laser....
TTL.jpg


(Please note the TTL position can change on the board and is not always below the + input)

Hope that helped!
-Adrian
 
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lasersbee

lasersbee

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borgqueenx said:
its about this product:
1W/1000mW Red laser module/TTL and Analog modulation [OL-R-1W] - $369.99 : Welcome to O-Like.com, Your source for laser products

I want it for in my projector. point is, that the page says it requires: Input voltage： 11VDC—13VDC.
but some text below it says:
Signal’s max response voltage is 5V (>5V recognized by 5V, it won’t effect
Negative voltage if response voltage not more than 7V)

so what is it? the driver automaticly gives it 5v or less or do i need to do things to give it 5v? and i give the driver 11 to 13v and then its fine?
Click to expand...

It looks like the 11VDC-13VDC is to power the Laser Driver...

The 5VDC seems to be the voltage for the Analog/TTL Laser
control input..


Jerry
 
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ARG

ARG

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I think, that you need to hook it up to the 12VDC power supply, then hook up the modulation input to your ILDA cable, which gives out a 5V signal.

Edit: Wow, fast responses two people beat me to it
 
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bobhaha

bobhaha

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ARGLaser said:
I think, that you need to hook it up to the 12VDC power supply, then hook up the modulation input to your ILDA cable, which gives out a 5V signal.

Edit: Wow, fast responses two people beat me to it
Click to expand...

And I drew a picture in paint :na:
 
S

Solonar

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I looked at that laser for my new projector, but the 4mrad divergence scared me away.


Going to stick with a triple or quad lpc.
 
borgqueenx

borgqueenx

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Solonar said:
I looked at that laser for my new projector, but the 4mrad divergence scared me away.


Going to stick with a triple or quad lpc.
Click to expand...

yeah but googling online gave me even bigger beams...this divergence seems the best of the worst. Besides its better for crowd scanning with the power on low.

Thanks for all the quick replies people :)

also about this laser wich i also plan to buy in like 2 months:
http://www.meierlight.net/300mw-532nm-green-laser-diode-analog-for-lightshows_p1341.html

the driver needs to be hooked onto AC power right? then why do the cable's on the photo have different colors?

and i guess those red and black thin cables go to the ilda board for controlling?
 
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S

Solonar

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The red and black are the modulation lines, the blue, black and green are the normal colors for AC lines.
 
borgqueenx

borgqueenx

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Solonar said:
The red and black are the modulation lines, the blue, black and green are the normal colors for AC lines.
Click to expand...

Oh...here we usally have same colors for ac lines, because it doesnt matter how you connect them since its ac, not dc.

Thanks!:)
 
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S

Solonar

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Even though AC is AC, they usually color Black as Line , green as ground, and the other color as Neutral, depending on where the item comes from the 3rd color varies.
 
Bionic-Badger

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You ought to follow standard wiring practices for safety reasons. The reason why there is a difference between live and neutral wires is that the neutral wire is kept nominally at ground/earth reference. This means that the neutral ought to be at the same potential as the "ground" plug (the third plug in 3-pronged power cords). In some devices, such as light bulbs, the neutral may actually be connected to the case, or exposed (as you can see on those screw-in types.

In your case, it is good to keep the wiring consistent, because the laser power supply's case may be grounded and not floating, and may even require a ground to be connected to it.
 
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