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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Multiline Argon laser cheap! Michican, USA

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I'm not an expert on Argons by any means, but does that mean that even with a standard plug on the PSU the laser wouldn't fire without jumpering a few of those pins? Or would it run in a limited state or something? Thanks
 





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There are two that need to be jumped. Not familiar with the pins though. It would normaly be hooked up to whatever controler is in the unit.
 
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I see. Well I am assuming there is no controller for this laser within the sequencer, is there?
 
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Anyone familiar with Biosystems 373 Analyzer components? :p

I believe all I need is in pictures 2 and 3, but I'm not sure... any advice? Thanks

Oh wait... I might need photo 5, right? Or no?

Item 1: DSC_0070 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Item 1: DSC_0071 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Item 2: DSC_0072 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Item 3: DSC_0075 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Item 4: DSC_0076 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Item 5: DSC_0077 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Item 6: DSC_0078 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Item 7: DSC_0079 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

1 - This is the optical scanner assembly that moves back and forth to scan across the DNA sample, useful parts: encoded dc brushmotor, linear actuator, lots of heavy machined aluminum parts, photomultipler tube with built in power supply, stepper motors, color filters (usually ruined with dirt and dust by the time we get our hands on these machines)

2 - Argon laser head - you want this part :tinfoil:

3 - Argon power supply, same as previous

4 - High voltage electrophoresis power supply, adjustable up to 2.5KV or so at 30-60mA if memory serves me correctly

5 - Power distribution unit. useful parts: solid state relays, small linear regulated DC power supply

6 - Main control boards, useful parts: lots of through hole electronic components for salvage, reed relays, 5vdc 5A switchmode power supply

7 - Sample tray, useful parts: flat plate low temperature heating element used to heat the samples for sequencing

8 - Housing, useful parts: :crackup:
 
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Haha well I'm trying to keep shipping costs down, so all I really want is just the laser. I'm getting it dirt cheap anyways, he/she can keep all the rest of the stuff. So all I need is what's shown in pictures 2 and 3, correct? I don't need picture 5? Thanks

EDIT: is there a diffraction grating in picture 1 or in this system anywhere? I need one anyways :p
 
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Correct, just make sure they save the cable that is shown attached to the power supply, this has the interlock jumper that tells the laser to turn on.

There are no diffraction gratings anywhere in this unit from what I remember, just some lenses and mirrors. The ABI Prism 377 is the next generation of this technology, instead of scanning for each fluorescence color one at a time and then changing the color filter with a stepper motor, it scans all the colors at once with a diffraction mirror and a linear CCD, but that's still not what you want.
 
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How much mercury are in those switches? Might be cool to have those too if I can find a seller to take one apart for me.

i still have mine, haven't properly disposed of them yet. 4 little tilt switches...why do you want them?
 
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How much mercury are in those switches? Might be cool to have those too if I can find a seller to take one apart for me.

Dont know if this was mentioned.

I think it's the piece hanging on the right in the last picture. (DSC_079) It looks like it from what I can see, the little green board. It is a tilt switch. for the cover.

It's the green piece that is sitting on the blue power supply along with the photomultiplier tube in mario's main picture. Just for some clarification.
 
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Do I need a controller for this Argon? Or is everything already configured and all I need is to power it up (and maybe splice a wall outlet power cable)? I heard that the PSU from the Argon uses a TR-20 plug, and the wall outlets in the US are NEMA-20. Do laptop/printer power cables use this type of plug by any chance?
 
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Do I need a controller for this Argon? Or is everything already configured and all I need is to power it up (and maybe splice a wall outlet power cable)? I heard that the PSU from the Argon uses a TR-20 plug, and the wall outlets in the US are NEMA-20. Do laptop/printer power cables use this type of plug by any chance?

As was mentioned, you can just cut and splice in a standard US connection if you need to.

Some have the oddball connection, some don't.

Otherwise, you just NEED the power supply, laser head with umbilical cable and the jumper plug on the remote connector.

Those three and you're good to go. All the rest is superfluous.

Once you make sure the interlock is shorted, plug it in and hit the power switch, wait about 15 seconds and turn the key. It may take a few seconds up to a minute to ignite.

When you turn it off, it's a good idea to let it cool down before killing the power. So do it in reverse.
Turn the key switch off and feel the heat on the fan
Let it cool at least 15 seconds, some say until room temp. Then kill the power switch.

Run it once at least once a month for an hour and it should last you a long time.

Air Cooled are rated MTBF. At full power it may only last 1000 hours or less.
At ilde mode it will last 15,000-25,000 hours typical.
Cyonics are NOT as picky as some argons about running regularly, You might be able to leave it for a year and have it fire right up.
Lots of Argons will not start if you leave them too long and all of them are happier if run regularly.
 
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Jumper plug? Not an expert with Argons (yet)... and doesn't the Argon use quite a bit of current? I'd need a thicker cable than just any everyday wall outlet wires, right?
 
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Need to jump pins to get it to run. Here are the jumpers on mine. Note sure what unit you have. Also it wont be drawing that much from your house to need anything other than standard gauge.

 
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Well my laser has all these multi-colored wires connecting to those pins on my power supply, do I need to get rid of the wires and then jump the pins or something?
 




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