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Replacement DX true 30mw arrived today

T

thejunkmonger

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My replacement dx true 30mw arrived today that replaces the one I sold to my boss. The box is the same, the instructions are the same, but the laser is different and it actually works perfectly right out of the box. Brighter than my pot modded Romisen 30mw and TEM 0 as soon as I push the button and seems to stay that way. The button also seems higher on this one maybe the actually put something to support the pcb. I'll look later......
 

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thejunkmonger

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poked around a bit the silver colored cap on the emission side is actually empty on this one the module is below the cap. I'll probably yank it off never did like that anyway.
 
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thejunkmonger

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did a quick test and the dx is not as powerful as my Romisen it has an instant on peak that is brighter but dies down to below what my Romisen is doing.

The beam quality on the dx true 30 is much better than on my romisen though.
 

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thejunkmonger

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well I see the diff between all my pointers with it , I just pointed them all at the same spot and also am able to see the voltage change when the output drops on the dx 30. It's not ideal because of the size and i also get the ambient light that produces voltage hence the 5.xx reading in the photo when I shine my lasers on it it goes past 6 volts. didn't really record the voltages because there are too many variables (ambient light) but it did show me that my dx was loseing power which i didn't notice first off now that I know I can see it in the beam.
 
IgorT

IgorT

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Richard... It's not easy to yank off..

I badly damaged the paint on the first DX200 i opened up. I managed to open up two more without damage tho, but you have to be careful.

The last one did not come appart where i expected. :) Usually, the silver painted cap is screwed onto the module, so it all comes out in one piece. But here, the cap itself came appart. luckily, there were some threads, into which i was able to screw an empty module of the same design and pull out with that.

Now i need to put it into a different body for proper heatsinking!
 
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thejunkmonger

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IgorT said:
Richard... It's not easy to yank off..

I badly damaged the paint on the first DX200 i opened up. I managed to open up two more without damage tho, but you have to be careful.

The last one did not come appart where i expected. :) Usually, the silver painted cap is screwed onto the module, so it all comes out in one piece. But here, the cap itself came appart. luckily, there were some threads, into which i was able to screw an empty module of the same design and pull out with that.

Now i need to put it into a different body for proper heatsinking!
Click to expand...


Thanks Igor but I know how it comes apart I completely disassembled my previous one to make the barrel longer to accept 3 batteries instead of 2.
Thanks for keeping an eye out so I don't destroy my toys Though :)
 
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arggg spoke too soon this one is like the last one starts up bright then drops off instantly, sometimes if you turn it on and off it grabs and does full power. Gonna need to mod this one too to 4.5 volts. oh well it has a really tight beam though I guess that should count for something.
 
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Finally decided to take a look inside ..... They put a metal spring under the PCB instead of a piece of foam LMAO .............................

added a picture.
 

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VillageIdiot

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...My dx 30 didn't have anything there. o_O

edit: NOOOO I MISSED MY 473rd POST

Oh well, there's still green, red and IR.
 
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forgot to mention the board still flexes when you push the button. and the button seems a higher quality it has a solid click.
 
VillageIdiot

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So assuming I didn't want to tinker with it anymore, do I stick in some hot glue if I want to stop it rattling?
 
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