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N1ch1a unbreakable green module - N1ch1a unbreakable blue module
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
New 520nm diode on DTR's site (1W) NUGM01T
- Thread starter Pman
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N1ch1a unbreakable green module - N1ch1a unbreakable blue module
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This is genius
I forgot what it's called but some numbers look like letters and people have been using that for quite a long time. Even the owner of this forum ColdShad0w uses it. Or is it C0ldshadow?
On topic, Wouldn't 2.1 amps be a bit too high?
Correction, on dtrs site it shows that to be well within acceptable range.
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TaterMay
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Lol right, I get that. I just can't come up with anything that sounds like any actual word based on NUGMOIT or NUBMOTE. Maybe my imagination is fading. Lol.
And yea, 100mA over the datasheet's listed max current is far less than we normally run diodes. We build NDB7875's at 2.4A, 700mA over the listed max all the time. I know I've personally built about 25 or 30 at least. Almost all at 2.4A, and I haven't had one die yet. That being said, I am DEFINITELY going to be much more easy on a $220 diode than a $54 one. Lol.
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Oh you mean like pronouncing it?
Alaskan
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What kind of power output are you seeing at 2.1 amps?
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AMEN Brother!
Alaskans Question : What kind of power output are you seeing at 2.1 amps?
My answer : I believe Tater said he has been having trouble getting the driver to adjust to 2.0 amps, it jumps from 0.7 to 2.1 so he has only recently decided to go with 2.1
I strongly advise that Tater monitor that output current for deviations if it was set via the little pot on a popular bucking driver as I have noticed variations until several heating and cooling cycles have elapsed in one myself.
It's possible I did something to cause that, but it was not my drivers heat sink as it was stable as a rock for many cycles until I touched the pot. My heat sink never changed and I turned my output down.
It went from a stable 5.0 amps to a variation between 5.5 to 4.2-4.1 over the course of battery discharge from fully charged to a final under load voltage of 7.1 for 2 INR 18650's
I originally turned it down from 5.0 to 4.5 with power off, but the batteries I used to verify the initial 4.5 amp resetting were about half discharged.
Upon recharging and monitoring I discovered the new abnormality.
Maybe I was too rough with the sensitive pot, I did not think that I was but I could have been, it is a small part and I am a big idiot
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AMEN Brother!
Alaskans Question : What kind of power output are you seeing at 2.1 amps?
My answer : I believe Tater said he has been having trouble getting the driver to adjust to 2.0 amps, it jumps from 0.7 to 2.1 so he has only recently decided to go with 2.1
I strongly advise that Tater monitor that output current for deviations if it was set via the little pot on a popular bucking driver as I have noticed variations until several heating and cooling cycles have elapsed in one myself.
It's possible I did something to cause that, but it was not my drivers heat sink as it was stable as a rock for many cycles until I touched the pot. My heat sink never changed and I turned my output down.
It went from a stable 5.0 amps to a variation between 5.5 to 4.2-4.1 over the course of battery discharge from fully charged to a final under load voltage of 7.1 for 2 INR 18650's
I originally turned it down from 5.0 to 4.5 with power off, but the batteries I used to verify the initial 4.5 amp resetting were about half discharged.
Upon recharging and monitoring I discovered the new abnormality.
Maybe I was too rough with the sensitive pot, I did not think that I was but I could have been, it is a small part and I am a big idiot
Cowboy fyi you can include multiple quotes by clicking on the multiquote button next to the quote button if you want to include more than one quote into your posts.
First multiquote the first post then click on quote on the last quote you want to include and they will all show up.
I bought a 9mm 462 diode for 150 bucks and still haven't used it and now you can get this diode for the same price. I might build the one I have and sell it to buy this diode. I'm fine with 4w. I don't want to risk it either.
TaterMay
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As Cowboy said, I was having trouble with the X-Drive I was wanting to use. I messaged Lazeerer about it last week sometime and I haven't received a reply about it yet, DTR said he probably wouldn't use it, and Flaminpyro is out until October. Looks like the almighty BlitzBuck just might power this diode. I've never had a single problem from them. I am about to test it now.
This diode is $220...
Update: Of course, when things are not working properly, I can't not try to fix them. Well this X-Drive is super strange. It is now stuck at 1.5-1.6A. But if it runs for about 20 seconds or so, it will suddenly shoot up to 3A, where it's supposed to be. I don't get it. It's like there's some resistance in it somewhere, and it isn't overcome until it heats up enough.
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Alaskan
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Oh, you didn't connect the diode yet, OK, thanks, looking forward to knowing what kind of power you measure at or close to 2 amps.
TaterMay
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Well, not quite what I was expecting, but still not bad. I tested with both my Ophir LPM and my Laserbee 3.7W USB. So, without further ado:
[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-16-01-39-10_zpsjhdmk0ss.png.html]
[/URL]
[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-16-01-39-27_zpsbejjef3i.png.html]
[/URL]
[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-16-01-39-33_zpsiqfzsx89.png.html]
[/URL]
And a nice, pretty graph of my results:
[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150916_013551_01_zpsklpgytgj.png.html]
[/URL]
So it appears to hit 1 watt right around 1.6 or 1.7A. Once you get up past 2A, it seems to start really losing efficiency. Eager to see more of these to see if they go any higher.
[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-16-01-39-10_zpsjhdmk0ss.png.html]
[/URL][URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-16-01-39-27_zpsbejjef3i.png.html]
[/URL][URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-16-01-39-33_zpsiqfzsx89.png.html]
[/URL]And a nice, pretty graph of my results:
[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150916_013551_01_zpsklpgytgj.png.html]
[/URL]So it appears to hit 1 watt right around 1.6 or 1.7A. Once you get up past 2A, it seems to start really losing efficiency. Eager to see more of these to see if they go any higher.
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Alaskan
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I like it, thank you very much for your hard work, +rep.
TaterMay
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You are very welcome. I was very tired, so if something looks wrong, it probably is. Lol. I wanted to go ahead and take it to the knee, but I just can't afford to kill a $220 diode. I can check divergence tonight. Is there a standard way of measuring divergence? Will measurements at aperture and from 10m away work?
Also, I bought a JetLasers beam expander, custom focus adapter, and attachment from Sinner that will work for the MX900 that I love so much. Hopefully it's here before I have to ship this one out so I can get some beam shots. Edit: hasn't shipped out yet, so definitely won't be here before this one ships out. Guess I'll be ordering another to build for myself.
Update: I did an overlay of the power outputs from this diode and the NDG7475. NDG7475 data is based on DTR's results shown on his site. It looks they are very similar in output. My diode appears to drop in output slightly quicker than the NDG7475. I will be doing more testing tonight. I might take it a little higher.
[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/NUGM01T%20Graph-1_zpswpmg3npq.jpg.html]
[/URL]
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Nice work!
For divergence measurments, I would try to get at least 5m away, if not 10m. Also, for it to mean anything it has to be measured with a known lens.
For a good comparison you could look at the far field spot next to a a m140 (both having the same lens installed). The M140 has aprox. the same emitter size as the NDG7475 (the emitter size+ collimation lens dictates the after lens divergence)
For divergence measurments, I would try to get at least 5m away, if not 10m. Also, for it to mean anything it has to be measured with a known lens.
For a good comparison you could look at the far field spot next to a a m140 (both having the same lens installed). The M140 has aprox. the same emitter size as the NDG7475 (the emitter size+ collimation lens dictates the after lens divergence)
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Absolutely correct Sir.
If you would be so kind Tater, Please get us a divergence/line width measurement before pushing it too hard, I really hope you don't drive it too hard and hurt it, but before you chance it I would like very much to know the basic divergence in comparison, Thank you.
I'm sure you know but if you can use a G2 and focus it side by side or 1 at a time at as long of a distance as possible then we will have the most accurate comparison. We don't want to lose any clipped edges in the 3 element, so the G2 with it's short focal length, or a G9 or S1 would be best for this comparison.
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Did you happen to take any measurements before removing the Gball lens?
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TaterMay
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Yea, all measurements will be taken with a G2 lens, which is what was used for the above tests.
My comment above was an auto correct error. I meant 10m. You guys are talking about simply doing a divergence comparison with another common diode, right? I'm asking specifically about properly measuring mrad.
I didn't, but I would like to. I'm wondering if I can just put it down in the module and have it seat almost exactly back where it was originally. It seems like I should be able to. It might just be .25 to .5mm raised off of the diode case. Thoughts?
If I can't do that, looks like I'll just have to order another. Shucks.
