DX 200

goldfingerfif said:

[quote author=f22warzone link=1203381562/0#14 date=1203638717]um EMS increses your risk of getting your laser taken away greatly..... so if it does show up quicly it may not even be in the box

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Damn, this sucks.  I paid for EMS and checked the tracking it is in America as of 2/18 but that's all it says.[/quote]

Anything new? Did it get through? Didn't you notice the warning about EMS on the DX site?



BTW: Do the US customs actually confiscate the laser, and send you just the box?!? I would think, they would return it instead...

I'm thinking of ordering another powerfull green, and this one is tempting.. The other one i ordered is the Kaidomain 50mW.. It hasn't even shipped yet, and i already want to order another one... Looks like i have too much money on my Visa account (temporarily of course)...

I couldn't take it any longer, and i ordered the 200mW DX green..

It's relativelly cheap, and supposedly very bright, which is all i care about.

If it has a nice beam, that is brighter than my 200mW reds or even a 300mW open can, i'm gonna be very happy with it..


If not, i've killed so many LDs so far, that their price can easily be compared to what i just paid..

I think i'm gonna play with it for a while, and then rebuild it, so it can take AA batteries and maybe improove cooling..

Anyone know what the optimal temperature for these is? I know, they don't operate well too cold, but what if i used a peltier to cool it to the optimal temperature? Would this perhaps prolong it's life? Or is that useless for greens?

all i did was drill a hole in a p1 heat sink with the fan attached and it ran nice and cool never switchd to tem03 unless i took the heat sink off

f22warzone said:

all i did was drill a hole in a p1 heat sink with the fan attached and it ran nice and cool never switchd to tem03 unless i took the heat sink off

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What kind of heat sink is that?


I'm building a very tiny TEC cooling system for my open can.. It has a small peltier, of only 15x15mm and 4W of power.. The tiny peltier will pump the heat away from the LD module, to a heatsink, that will be colled by a tiny helicopter's tail propeler, driven by a pager motor. This way i can run the cooling from a single AA Ni-MH cell and keep everything small, and still very powerfull.


I was thinking of making something similiar for the DX 200, in a modified enclosure of course.. That's why i'd like to know what their optimal operating temperature is, so i can set it to that.. I know they don't work well too cold, and have to warm up, but they also don't have to heat up too much.. So maybe if i keep it at 30°C?



EDIT: My previous order from DX took one week, to start packaging.. This one i ordered yesturday, and it's already being packaged.. It's probably gonna arrive sooner than the Kaidomain 50mW...

Why can't i add this thread to my favourites?

The button is missing..

IgorT said:

Why can't i add this thread to my favourites?

The button is missing..

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It is because your using Solaris! ;D ;D ;D

goldfingerfif said:

It is because your using Solaris!   ;D ;D ;D

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What does that mean? :-?


BTW: Did yours come yet or not?

Mine was just shipped, and i ordered it yesturday.. This was fast!

IgorT said:

[quote author=goldfingerfif link=1203381562/15#21 date=1204047296][quote author=IgorT link=1203381562/15#20 date=1204028814]Why can't i add this thread to my favourites?

The button is missing..

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It is because your using Solaris!   ;D ;D ;D[/quote]


What does that mean? :-?



BTW: Did yours come yet or not?[/quote]

Sorry it was a computer nerd joke, that wasn't very funny. I really don't know why you have a problem but solaris is an OS (operating system) like Windows, Mac, DOS, Unix, Linux, Minix, BeOS, etc.

Mine didn't come yet :-/ When it does I'll post all about it.

Ok I got my DX200 and as for power, beam visibility and brightness it was beyond what I expected. It sucks the beam isn't as small as it could be so it is hard to burn from a distance but I can tell if I build a lens for it, it will burn from like 15feet. Other downside is when I turn it on after about 5 seconds the beam "Micro-shakes" and turns to TEM01 mode where there is 2 beams, I bought Lithium AAA's and this has helped but after about 10seconds now it does it. I never left it on for more than 30seconds. Oh well, I'll buy another and then send them this one back! BUY GLASSES!!!! I didn't and it is just soooo bright it puts red lasers to shame.

Sorry about the shaky pics.

goldfingerfif said:

I bought Lithium AAA's and this has helped but after about 10seconds now it does it.  I never left it on for more than 30seconds.  Oh well, I'll buy another and then send them this one back!  BUY GLASSES!!!! I didn't and it is just soooo bright it puts red lasers to shame.

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Glad to hear it came through ok...

I just wanted to mention one thing.. You should try it with rechargable Ni-MHs first..

Lithiums have a considerably higher voltage than alkalines, and can damage it eventually. And i heard that the output is not very stable with alkalines either..

But Ni-MHs are supposed to work great, and due to their lower voltage, they are more gentle to the laser..



BTW: How much brighter would you say it is, compared to a 200mW red, visually?

IgorT said:

[quote author=goldfingerfif link=1203381562/15#24 date=1204121050]I bought Lithium AAA's and this has helped but after about 10seconds now it does it.  I never left it on for more than 30seconds.  Oh well, I'll buy another and then send them this one back!  BUY GLASSES!!!! I didn't and it is just soooo bright it puts red lasers to shame.

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Glad to hear it came through ok...

I just wanted to mention one thing.. You should try it with rechargable Ni-MHs first..

Lithiums have a considerably higher voltage than alkalines, and can damage it eventually. And i heard that the output is not very stable with alkalines either..

But Ni-MHs are supposed to work great, and due to their lower voltage, they are more gentle to the laser..



BTW: How much brighter would you say it is, compared to a 200mW red, visually?[/quote]

Maybe 2x as bright. I mean a 200mw red is bright but it doesn't hurt my eyes unless it is at a match head or something white and close. I point this green one at my hand and it hurts my eyes from 2ft as bad as the red would hurt from 6inches. It is SOOOO bright it is very very hard to see the dot so I am unsure of size unless I look at the beam in the dark (smallest focal point is 6-8inches from head of laser. I put the alkalines back in that came with the laser and it seems a little better, I will try NiMH (1.2v). Thanks, but I already ordered ANOTHER!!! I also put in a claim ticket about the issue I am having with DX. I need glasses as this is dangerously bright.

goldfingerfif said:

I need glasses as this is dangerously bright.

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It just looks brighter than a red 200mW, while the red is actually more powerfull..


If both were 200mW, the green would look brighter, but the actual damage done would be the same, if i'm not mistaken.

Anyway, what i'm trying to say is, even if the reds don't hurt your eyes, they are doing just as much damage if not more to them, so you need glasses for them as well..


IR for example wouldn't bother you at all, but we all know how dangerous it can be.

IgorT said:

[quote author=goldfingerfif link=1203381562/15#26 date=1204125193]I need glasses as this is dangerously bright.

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It just looks brighter than a red 200mW, while the red is actually more powerfull..


If both were 200mW, the green would look brighter, but the actual damage done would be the same, if i'm not mistaken.

Anyway, what i'm trying to say is, even if the reds don't hurt your eyes, they are doing just as much damage if not more to them, so you need glasses for them as well..


IR for example wouldn't bother you at all, but we all know how dangerous it can be.[/quote]

The red I have is rated at about 150mw and the dx green 200mw is probably 180mw. The green is EASILY 2x as bright my pics should show how big the dot is as that's how it is since it is soo bright but when pointing at something black you can see the dot. Since I did not build the lens to focus the dx green (http://www.amazing1.com/download/COLMIN1.pdf) I cannot focus it and the red has FAR MORE burning power.

goldfingerfif said:

The red I have is rated at about  150mw and the dx green 200mw is probably 180mw.  The green is EASILY 2x as bright my pics should show how big the dot is as that's how it is since it is soo bright but when pointing at something black you can see the dot.  Since I did not build the lens to focus the dx green (http://www.amazing1.com/download/COLMIN1.pdf) I cannot focus it and the red has FAR MORE burning power.

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I see.. How much current are you running through your reds?

I have three 16x, that can easily take 330mA without even getting hot, only warm, and an open can at 420mA..

From my limited experience, i think my 16x reds might be the same as the the good batch of Sony GB LDs, which would mean, they are putting out 200mW at the highest currents, but i run them at 270mA since there is not much visual difference from that point on..


In fact, the open can is not really any brighter, so i'm quite amazed by them...


But the reason i'm asking is, so that i can imagine how bright the DX200 green will look like, compared to my reds.. Twice as bright sounds good, but i just want to make sure.. So what do you set your red LD current to, to get 150mW?



Oh, and what were the lighting conditions in those pics, and did you use smoke or fog for the beam to be visible?

I am at work in those pics so NO smoke or fog.



I use the DDL circuit with 5ohms (1.25V / 5ohm = 250mA)

goldfingerfif said:

I am at work in those pics so NO smoke or fog.

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And the lights are on! Impressive!

Can't wait till mine gets here..