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I'd try it , if I could get mine open. 
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
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I would ask Greg how to open. But, I think these things are super glued in. I saw a youtube vid of a dude heating one but I can't quite see how that would break a CA bond. I'm wondering if super glue remover (liquid) would penetrate between the case and module by capillary action without harming the module. You'd just take a fine needle applicator and apply around the periphery of the module while the laser is pointed straight up (without batteries in place of course). Let it sit for a short time and then gently try to twist and pull out. Anyone else have ideas on this???The_80s_Man said:I'd try it , if I could get mine open.
If it IS just the switch on these DX lasers, that would pretty much solve the problem.
Has anyone got a totally dead one that's still intact that can be experimented with?
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Hate to report this, but my so far perfect DX30 is started to give me problems, too. Even last night it was bright with clearly visible beam. Then, i turn it on this morning and it's very dim . I hope there is an easy fix to this. if not i'll just chalk it up as what you get for a $25 knockoff.
. I hope there is an easy fix to this. if not i'll just chalk it up as what you get for a $25 knockoff.- Joined
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Too many smart folks on this forum to keep tossing away these lasers. I do believe we'll solve this IF it's mechanical (i.e. switch). I still have not received mine yet but when I do, I will attempt to remove the module without destroying the thing and have a look at the switch.
I recently took my WL Core apart and was happy at how easy it was AND how well made. That sucker is NOT glued in and slides out easily once the aperture cap is popped off.
I recently took my WL Core apart and was happy at how easy it was AND how well made. That sucker is NOT glued in and slides out easily once the aperture cap is popped off.
I had a DX 30 on order for over 2 weeks without it shipping, and now I'm counting myself lucky for the delay. After hearing all the problems people are having (even if its just mechanical.. seems like that's just one of many problems though) I've canceled my order and will probably try out on of their keychain models...
I intend to purchase a nicely made commercial green at some point but right now I'm still in the ultra-bargain/DIY phase.
I intend to purchase a nicely made commercial green at some point but right now I'm still in the ultra-bargain/DIY phase.
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I removed the black pieces of sponge and took a dremel and carved a hole in my Laser case to get access to the Pot. There was metal dust all over the inside of the laser so I used compressed air to remove the dust before I powered it up again and it still works. I have tried and tried to adjust the Pot and it seems that my DX Green 30mw was sent to me already at maximum Pot setting. I can not make it any brighter but if I do turn it down and make it dim it becomes stable. With a dim Pot setting, if I press the button it will light up at a constant level all the time but that level is dim and is no fun at all.
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...
Anyone wanting to open a NewWish style laser... read on...
Get a pair of Vise-Grips.
Put something soft (sock, paper, something) over the end bit. The bit that is silver as opposed to the rest of the body, or the bit that is the aperture and goes a little way down the body. The end bit.
Adjust and clamp on the vise grips so that they are fairly tight. Grip the main body of the laser with one hand (if it's too tight you might need to do the same thing on the body) and TWIST.
Pulling won't help at all. Twisting the modules in the barrel is the strongest force you can get to break the glue. When it twists around a bit then pull it out.
I have done this with my NewWish clone ebayzer. See ma sig.
GL ppls!
Anyone wanting to open a NewWish style laser... read on...
Get a pair of Vise-Grips.
Put something soft (sock, paper, something) over the end bit. The bit that is silver as opposed to the rest of the body, or the bit that is the aperture and goes a little way down the body. The end bit.
Adjust and clamp on the vise grips so that they are fairly tight. Grip the main body of the laser with one hand (if it's too tight you might need to do the same thing on the body) and TWIST.
Pulling won't help at all. Twisting the modules in the barrel is the strongest force you can get to break the glue. When it twists around a bit then pull it out.
I have done this with my NewWish clone ebayzer. See ma sig.
GL ppls!
Well I got impatient and sent mine back. I wrote a letter about all of us here and how great of a percentage of us are getting dim lasers. Like I said before, I bought mine for star pointing mostly (I am really into astronomy) and you couldn't even see the beam at night except for the first burst. I also mentioned to have mine thoroughly tested before it was sent but now reading that it is happening to some people after a couple weeks of use makes me unconfident again. I am also talking with someone about the issue and will let you know what I find.
Thanks
Thanks
Benm
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I got a (true) DX30 in the mail yesterday, and that seems to be pretty good so far. Runs quite bright on NiMHs, good enough to pop a sharpied balloon at a foot range. The switch is already flimsy, but that's easily replaced i guess.
One thing i noticed is that this new DX30 has a different cap from the older models, the aperture is somewhat wider (see pic). I have no idea if this also relfects a change in the innards, but it could be different production?
One thing i noticed is that this new DX30 has a different cap from the older models, the aperture is somewhat wider (see pic). I have no idea if this also relfects a change in the innards, but it could be different production?
Attachments
I read somewhere that new wish has factory in korea and china/taiwan. So the difference in quality/production might be that DX switched suppliers? Not sure about this though.
If anyone has a dead/dim DX30 they want to junk, please send it to me. I could take it apart to play with. I'll pay shipping.
If anyone has a dead/dim DX30 they want to junk, please send it to me. I could take it apart to play with. I'll pay shipping.
Benm
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Perhaps they have different factories, i don't know about that. I re-assembled the old DX20 and noticed the new DX30 is a few mm shorter too - it's definitely more than just the little cap that's different.
The switch is wonky already, when it fails i'll probably open it up to replace that and we'll see if the circuitry is different too.
The switch is wonky already, when it fails i'll probably open it up to replace that and we'll see if the circuitry is different too.
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same!
from what things is telling me the difference is this:
old one, the silver cap is part of the crystal / lens assy.
new one, all 3 of those (cap, lens assy, crystal assy) are separate.
from what things is telling me the difference is this:
old one, the silver cap is part of the crystal / lens assy.
new one, all 3 of those (cap, lens assy, crystal assy) are separate.
Well, I do think I have to agree (to whomever), that if you want a 100% laser, DX might not be the place to look. Yes, they "only sell products", but what you pay is what you get. Or, if you want a 100% power up-to-spec that will lase your life's path, you should rather get something towards Nova and that area, and not DX. There is a reason that e.g. Optotronics is "a bit" more expensive than DX. It is a bit like gambling, you might have huge savings, or your money might go down the drain
Anyways, I ordered a true 30 yesterday (not the "untrue" 50, after reading some other threads ), and then I'll see what this is about and build my own opinion.
But so far it has been proven that Murphy's Law is avoiding me, so I might just be ruining the statistical data .
Anyways, I ordered a true 30 yesterday (not the "untrue" 50, after reading some other threads
), and then I'll see what this is about and build my own opinion.But so far it has been proven that Murphy's Law is avoiding me, so I might just be ruining the statistical data
.
Benm
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Seems to be a common problem. My older DX20 has been doing that from day one, but a DX30 i recently got doesn't have that problem. It takes 10-20 seconds to warm up and get to proper power levels, but so far it's been fine - apart from a wonky switch.
I'm intersted to see if DX will refund the bad ones, and also how they'll handle reimbursing shipping costs. If they actually get you a new one at no cost, there wouldn't be much of a problem.
I'm intersted to see if DX will refund the bad ones, and also how they'll handle reimbursing shipping costs. If they actually get you a new one at no cost, there wouldn't be much of a problem.
