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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Trying to solder leads to Aurora Host
- Thread starter Calarin
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HaloBlu
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Are you trying to solder to aluminum? Aluminum will not easily solder.
If your heatsink is pressed against a non-anodized surface you can use the case pin on your diode. Some diodes are case positive tho.
Which diode & driver?
If your heatsink is pressed against a non-anodized surface you can use the case pin on your diode. Some diodes are case positive tho.
Which diode & driver?
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For the aurora you can just tuck the negative wire under the pill and then screw it down. It doesn't need to be soldered. Pinching it between the host and the pill will give you a good contact point.
If you're using the "blank" host that doesn't come with the PCB that fits into the hole, I heat up my pills and then press them into sheet plastic (maybe some old VHS movie cases) to cut out a perfect circle that presses right into the pill.
Then drill a hole in the center of it and attach a small bolt & nut from your hardware store for your batteries positive contact.
You can just wrap your positive wire around the bolt and then tighten it down with the nut to hold it in place.
This is what I do for the ones i sell, as it's easier than finding bulk amounts of 16mm round PCB boards
If you're using the "blank" host that doesn't come with the PCB that fits into the hole, I heat up my pills and then press them into sheet plastic (maybe some old VHS movie cases) to cut out a perfect circle that presses right into the pill.
Then drill a hole in the center of it and attach a small bolt & nut from your hardware store for your batteries positive contact.
You can just wrap your positive wire around the bolt and then tighten it down with the nut to hold it in place.
This is what I do for the ones i sell, as it's easier than finding bulk amounts of 16mm round PCB boards
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Thank you for the replies!
Yes aluminum. And it came with a pill to put the module in. I have a 532nm dpss module in the pill currently. So I'll tuck the negative end away like you said and solder the positive end to the plate then.
I'm surprised the negative end works fine there though.
Yes aluminum. And it came with a pill to put the module in. I have a 532nm dpss module in the pill currently. So I'll tuck the negative end away like you said and solder the positive end to the plate then.
I'm surprised the negative end works fine there though.
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It does. It travels through the body of the flashlight, through the clicky switch and into the battery.
If you've got a DPSS green module then it must be case positive. In which case you'd pinch the positive between the pill and the flashlight and solder the negative to the "plate"
and then inser your batteries with the positive end facing the clicky switch
LaZeRz
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Because the diodes used in green modules are case positive rather than case negative like most other diodes 
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Yup.
The positive pin on your green's IR diode is also the case pin. So your diode's positive pin is essentially going to be in contact with the metal part of the flashlight. So you must ensure that the battery's positive end is traveling through the flashlight's body, and not the negative.
The positive pin on your green's IR diode is also the case pin. So your diode's positive pin is essentially going to be in contact with the metal part of the flashlight. So you must ensure that the battery's positive end is traveling through the flashlight's body, and not the negative.
LaZeRz
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Whaa? What driver?
If it fried its self it probably was short circuiting.
If it fried its self it probably was short circuiting.
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or you killed the IR diode by driving it with twice the recommended input voltage
LaZeRz
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Ah, I didn't catch the bit where he stated its a green module.
Yer, green modules are made to operate at around 3 volts. (some 4.2) thats why it worked fine on 1 18650. But when you hooked up 8.4 volts into it, it went poof and probably killed the diode aswell.
Yer, green modules are made to operate at around 3 volts. (some 4.2) thats why it worked fine on 1 18650. But when you hooked up 8.4 volts into it, it went poof and probably killed the diode aswell.
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Blord
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Actually the heatsink is electrically isolated from the laser host. Because the host is anodize there will be no current flowing from the sink to the head of the C6. Of course the sink mustn't also touch the alumiumum pill inside the host.
My green laser C6 build is host negative with the battery in the regular orientation. I replace the laser driver with the DX 17mm buck drivers which I adjust to the right current by replacing the sense resistor on the driverboard. I also drill the pill out for more room to fit the green module.
I salvage the green module from a broken green laserpen. Replace the broken ir diode with a new 300mW 5.6mm diode from Ebay. They cost couple bucks. Realign it and voila a good 70-80mW laser is born.
My green laser C6 build is host negative with the battery in the regular orientation. I replace the laser driver with the DX 17mm buck drivers which I adjust to the right current by replacing the sense resistor on the driverboard. I also drill the pill out for more room to fit the green module.
I salvage the green module from a broken green laserpen. Replace the broken ir diode with a new 300mW 5.6mm diode from Ebay. They cost couple bucks. Realign it and voila a good 70-80mW laser is born.
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I have never ran across an IR diode that wasn't case positive.
this is the trend for diodes. I don't want to say it goes for all diodes because then i'll probably end up looking stupid. 99% of the time this is what you'll get though.
IR is case positive
405 case neutral
445 case neutral
650 case negative
635 .....the new one is case neutral but i'm not sure of the others.
