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The only problem with that is getting the large piece of copper tinned. It takes a great deal of heat to do it. I've had pieces so massive I gave up.
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Oh, what a relief .... !!!
- Thread starter RB astro
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If there is nothing mounted to the Copper
heatsink you could use a propane torch to
help build up the initial melting temperature.
But still a massive high wattage iron to do
the actual joining..
Jerry
heatsink you could use a propane torch to
help build up the initial melting temperature.
But still a massive high wattage iron to do
the actual joining..
Jerry
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Hi RB ,
I would rip it apart and build it my own way, sorry ,i had one of those drivers in a other build . modded it to my may , you don't need a round driver to fit in his builds. SXD heats sinked ..
Rich
I would rip it apart and build it my own way, sorry ,i had one of those drivers in a other build . modded it to my may , you don't need a round driver to fit in his builds. SXD heats sinked ..
Rich
BobMc
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Have a good at work RB, something tells me that there's gong to be another Laser calling your name here shortly. So stock up on supplies when you can.
Ps, This is what happens when I paste the URL in
http://www.iceinspace.com.au/vbiis/images/smilies/party05.gif
Just the link, no picture. I'm thinking it's my iPhone 5c, it's just to old. :thinking:
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BobMc
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Bob...
It looks like you are using the Blue Globe "Insert URL"
tab 3 positions to the left of the "Insert Image" tag
I pointed to in the pic on my Post #9...
That would give you the URL being posted on screen
instead of the actual Smiley...
Jerry
It looks like you are using the Blue Globe "Insert URL"
tab 3 positions to the left of the "Insert Image" tag
I pointed to in the pic on my Post #9...
That would give you the URL being posted on screen
instead of the actual Smiley...
Jerry
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BobMc
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As far as I can tell, you pointed to the one that looks like "mountains" it's the same one I use when I post pictures in my reviews. It works quite well. But than I'm doing it from my computer and not my iPhone. Now I trying it from my phone and I think that's the problem. Me thinks????
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Yeah.. it's the tab with the mountain that I
pointed to...
I'd chuck the phone......:eg:
Jerry
pointed to...
I'd chuck the phone......:eg:
Jerry
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BobMc
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Nutball
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What wattage of iron are you using? I've found a large blade 150W solders almost everything, even the biggest stuff, but big stuff will at the surface reach melting temp, and then quickly cool the iron to below solder melting temp. In your case, I'd use a propane torch, a full blown plumbing type, plenty of flux before it's hot, and letthe heat of the copper melt the solder. Then a hot 150W will make the connection to the board even when the copper is cool.
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Nutball
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First time I read it I thought you meant to simply use the torch as an assisting heat source during soldering with the iron, not tin with the torch, then use the iron.
Anyway, I prefer using a torch as much as possible. This is basically the same iron I have: STAINED GLASS SOLDER IRON SOLDERING IRON 150 WATT, | eBay It took a while to finally get the solder to stick to it for the first time, but it works great now.
Anyway, I prefer using a torch as much as possible. This is basically the same iron I have: STAINED GLASS SOLDER IRON SOLDERING IRON 150 WATT, | eBay It took a while to finally get the solder to stick to it for the first time, but it works great now.
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Hey RB, it's too bad that you are working with an already assembled laser, otherwise another option might be to not solder the board to the whole heatsink, but to solder it to a press fit ring that has much less mass, and would solder up more easily.
You tend to see this in the smaller size builds, but it would work here with a little modding of the H.S., this is obviously not as easily done with a finished build like yours, but just an alternative idea.
You tend to see this in the smaller size builds, but it would work here with a little modding of the H.S., this is obviously not as easily done with a finished build like yours, but just an alternative idea.
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That's seems like a good idea.. Would even workHey RB, it's too bad that you are working with an already assembled laser, otherwise another option might be to not solder the board to the whole heatsink, but to solder it to a press fit ring that has much less mass, and would solder up more easily.
You tend to see this in the smaller size builds, but it would work here with a little modding of the H.S., this is obviously not as easily done with a finished build like yours, but just an alternative idea.
if the ring had threads and screwed into place.
@Nutball..
N/P..
Jerry
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Yep, my last build had that exact type of retainer, a very positive and clean connection, with the best part being that you can take it apart easily.
Thanks for mentioning it Jerry, I had forgot about that one.
Sorry for the large pic, I'll try and get it re-sized.
Thanks for mentioning it Jerry, I had forgot about that one.
Sorry for the large pic, I'll try and get it re-sized.
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