Rifter
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- May 8, 2014
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So i have finally got some time to finish my new build with my custom sinner host and oclaro HL63133DG. Having been on vacation for the last 6 days with this sitting at home waiting to be assembled has been killing me.
I was going to do a detailed build thread with step by step pics, however I encountered some minor to major difficulties and it turned into a how not to build a laser build, i will admit I rednecked a few things to make them work and im not going to post pics of how not to build a laser
but it works so i guess that all that matters at the end of the day.
Pics of parts. Sorry for bad focusing camera was having difficulty figuring out what to focus on and i was to lazy to use manual focus, so there is two pics
As for the negative connection to the body of the host(case negative configuration being used) i had to improvise, i was just going to solder the negative driver wire onto the inside of the host but could not fit my soldering iron far enough down the 12mm aixiz module hole to clear the inserted module, facepalm!
Also I had ordered the host to be press fit but sinner accidentally did a final pass on it and widened it out to require a set screw, and forgot to ship the set screw or it got lost in shipment(there was a small hole in the DHL envelope it arrived in). I then ordered a set screw locally and it was the right size but wrong thread pattern.... So i figured i could solve both the negative connection issue and the set screw issue at the same time, this is where it gets a little redneck. I Soldered the negative lead from the driver onto the threads on the copper module where the aluminum back half usually screws on. This gave me a small solder bump sticking out the side effectively widening the module a little bit and allowing me to then press fit it into the host while also offering me a great connection to the host for the negative connection. Im pretty sure this is the equivalent of using duct tape on a laser build but it works. It sure felt awfully redneck anyways.
So onto some finished and LPM pics.
And before someone mentions it yes im aware there is debris(copper filings from machining process) in the lens focus adapter barell, i removed them before firing up the laser for the first time, guess its a good thing i took that pic lol.
LPM's at 193.8mw as seen in the pic. Not bad for a Oclaro HL63133DG thats only being driven at 325ma.
The lens is one of the ones from the Group buy that just ended hosted by paul/thejoker. Its the best for power i have seen in the red spectrum(the one in parts pic is the plastic one, lens used not photographed).
The laser tested 178mw with a authentic G2 lens.
I will post some comparison shots later between this and my 660nm, the 638nm looks red when its by itself but as soon as i fire up my 660nm beside it the oclaro looks very orange.
This thing is heavy like a tank, im sure i could knock someone out with it lol. Doesnt even get hot after 20 min continuous use, just warm. The module was way hotter when i soldered the negative lead onto it, i was worried i would hurt the diode doing that as i needed to get the copper pretty hot to get the solder to stick to it even with some of jeff(flaminpyro)'s flux(thanks jeff, wouldnt have been able to do this build without some good flux).
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.
I was going to do a detailed build thread with step by step pics, however I encountered some minor to major difficulties and it turned into a how not to build a laser build, i will admit I rednecked a few things to make them work and im not going to post pics of how not to build a laser
but it works so i guess that all that matters at the end of the day.Pics of parts. Sorry for bad focusing camera was having difficulty figuring out what to focus on and i was to lazy to use manual focus, so there is two pics
As for the negative connection to the body of the host(case negative configuration being used) i had to improvise, i was just going to solder the negative driver wire onto the inside of the host but could not fit my soldering iron far enough down the 12mm aixiz module hole to clear the inserted module, facepalm!
Also I had ordered the host to be press fit but sinner accidentally did a final pass on it and widened it out to require a set screw, and forgot to ship the set screw or it got lost in shipment(there was a small hole in the DHL envelope it arrived in). I then ordered a set screw locally and it was the right size but wrong thread pattern.... So i figured i could solve both the negative connection issue and the set screw issue at the same time, this is where it gets a little redneck. I Soldered the negative lead from the driver onto the threads on the copper module where the aluminum back half usually screws on. This gave me a small solder bump sticking out the side effectively widening the module a little bit and allowing me to then press fit it into the host while also offering me a great connection to the host for the negative connection. Im pretty sure this is the equivalent of using duct tape on a laser build but it works. It sure felt awfully redneck anyways.
So onto some finished and LPM pics.
And before someone mentions it yes im aware there is debris(copper filings from machining process) in the lens focus adapter barell, i removed them before firing up the laser for the first time, guess its a good thing i took that pic lol.
LPM's at 193.8mw as seen in the pic. Not bad for a Oclaro HL63133DG thats only being driven at 325ma.
The lens is one of the ones from the Group buy that just ended hosted by paul/thejoker. Its the best for power i have seen in the red spectrum(the one in parts pic is the plastic one, lens used not photographed).
The laser tested 178mw with a authentic G2 lens.
I will post some comparison shots later between this and my 660nm, the 638nm looks red when its by itself but as soon as i fire up my 660nm beside it the oclaro looks very orange.
This thing is heavy like a tank, im sure i could knock someone out with it lol. Doesnt even get hot after 20 min continuous use, just warm. The module was way hotter when i soldered the negative lead onto it, i was worried i would hurt the diode doing that as i needed to get the copper pretty hot to get the solder to stick to it even with some of jeff(flaminpyro)'s flux(thanks jeff, wouldnt have been able to do this build without some good flux).
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.
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