New to Lasers - Low mW Project

calebarchie · Aug 25, 2015

Hi guys,

I'm new to lasers and the forum. I am currently working on a project which can be followed on the PicEngrave forums, here

I am in need of ≤100mW Red and Blue (405nm) lasers that support analogue modulation. I need the lower power to achieve a smaller dot. However such modules are usually only used in laser shows therefore TTL only.

As I'm new to lasers I'm not sure on the inner workings, but the lasers will be controlled via Flexmod P3, in that case can I just hook up a diode directly to the P3? Otherwise I need to source lower wattage, analogue-modulated laser modules. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks for the help,
Caleb

Blastertron221 · Aug 25, 2015

I have never seen a 100mw laser at 405nm. The laser closest that is blue I know of is the 450nm Osram PLP450 Diode sold at https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/osram-plp450-450nm-laser-diode
Make sure to buy the 450nm Osram PLP450 In Copper Modules W/Leads & Acrylic Lens or for better quality buy the
450nm Osram PLP450 Diode In Copper Module W/Leads &
Three Element Glass Lens. For this project I would use the DIY C6 host from survivallaser. And Rechargeable 16340 Batteries you can find on amazon. A Blitz Linear Driver and blank battery board from survivallaser. And you need soldering iron. A 3A Test Load with a multimeter. Test load on survivallaser multimeter on amazon.
For instruction on this build make a reply on what you need help with. I may help but more likely someone else. I am new but I know this is a good build.
If you are in the US use SurvivalLaserUSA instead of SurvivalLaser they are the same site. Just for international and US orders.
http://survivallaserusa.com/ or http://survivallaser.com/ and http://amazon.com/
Wait you also need the 190-540nm Safety goggles. And a Black Anodized Aluminum Heat Sink.

Blastertron221 · Aug 25, 2015

Blastertron221 said:
I have never seen a 100mw laser at 405nm. The laser closest that is blue I know of is the 450nm Osram PLP450 Diode sold at https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/osram-plp450-450nm-laser-diode
Make sure to buy the 450nm Osram PLP450 In Copper Modules W/Leads & Acrylic Lens or for better quality buy the
450nm Osram PLP450 Diode In Copper Module W/Leads &
Three Element Glass Lens. For this project I would use the DIY C6 host from survivallaser. And Rechargeable 16340 Batteries you can find on amazon. A Blitz Linear Driver and blank battery board from survivallaser. And you need soldering iron. A 3A Test Load with a multimeter. Test load on survivallaser multimeter on amazon.
For instruction on this build make a reply on what you need help with. I may help but more likely someone else. I am new but I know this is a good build.
If you are in the US use SurvivalLaserUSA instead of SurvivalLaser they are the same site. Just for international and US orders.
http://survivallaserusa.com/ or http://survivallaser.com/ and http://amazon.com/
Wait you also need the 190-540nm Safety goggles. And a Black Anodized Aluminum Heat Sink.

Also the Blitz Linear Driver is a cheaper and better version of the FlexMod. Don't forget you need still need assembly instructions.

calebarchie · Aug 25, 2015

Hi,

Are you saying I am simply able to get a lower powered pointer (which are TTL), put it in a module/lens then hook it up to a driver (Like Flexmod, Blitz) and turn it into true analogue?

If so that may be much cheaper the sourcing pro-low spec lasers as they seem to be quite the speciality.
I have found these:

- Crystalaser BCL-050-405
http://www.crystalaser.com/Blue375-405-444.pdf

- 520nm Osram PL520
http://www.osram-os.com/Graphics/XPic2/ ... %20520.pdf

- Crystalaser DL638-050
http://www.crystalaser.com/DL635-785.pdf

Anyone got any info on Crystalaser, prices? Otherwise I might just go with the RGB kit from DTR and live with 120mW.

This project is very much like an rgb scanner/projector so I'll be needing dichroic mirrors, any good sources for that without breaking the bank.

I've heard laserwave mirrors work well with DTR's set, can anyone confirm this?

Caleb

chipdouglas · Aug 26, 2015

the lower the power doesn't mean the smaller the dot.
what type of diode you use (single mode v multi mode), the optics you use, and your set focal length.

the drive will dictate the modulation, not necessarily the laser diode.

to correct the second post.... yes there are 100mW 405nm lasers. very common, very inexpensive.

calebarchie said:
Hi guys,

I'm new to lasers and the forum. I am currently working on a project which can be followed on the PicEngrave forums, here

I am in need of ≤100mW Red and Blue (405nm) lasers that support analogue modulation. I need the lower power to achieve a smaller dot. However such modules are usually only used in laser shows therefore TTL only.

As I'm new to lasers I'm not sure on the inner workings, but the lasers will be controlled via Flexmod P3, in that case can I just hook up a diode directly to the P3? Otherwise I need to source lower wattage, analogue-modulated laser modules. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks for the help,
Caleb

calebarchie · Aug 26, 2015

chipdouglas said:
the lower the power doesn't mean the smaller the dot.
what type of diode you use (single mode v multi mode), the optics you use, and your set focal length.

the drive will dictate the modulation, not necessarily the laser diode.

to correct the second post.... yes there are 100mW 405nm lasers. very common, very inexpensive.

Thanks for the clarification, in any case i'll be needing the lowest power possible for this project, even going through NDs from 100mW.

If I were to get pointers, which diodes should I avoid, diode pumped? Basically how can achieve the smallest dot size possible, I assume a longer focal length lens and shorter focus distance equates to a smaller dot?

Multi-vs single?

Sorry for new questions

calebarchie · Aug 26, 2015

I have found this
Optical calculator Holo/Or

For DTR's rgb kit the lasers do not have beam diameter and quality published. Is beam diameter the same as aperture?

Blastertron221 · Aug 26, 2015

calebarchie said:
Hi,

Are you saying I am simply able to get a lower powered pointer (which are TTL), put it in a module/lens then hook it up to a driver (Like Flexmod, Blitz) and turn it into true analogue?

If so that may be much cheaper the sourcing pro-low spec lasers as they seem to be quite the speciality.
I have found these:

- Crystalaser BCL-050-405
http://www.crystalaser.com/Blue375-405-444.pdf

- 520nm Osram PL520
http://www.osram-os.com/Graphics/XPic2/ ... %20520.pdf

- Crystalaser DL638-050
http://www.crystalaser.com/DL635-785.pdf

Anyone got any info on Crystalaser, prices? Otherwise I might just go with the RGB kit from DTR and live with 120mW.

This project is very much like an rgb scanner/projector so I'll be needing dichroic mirrors, any good sources for that without breaking the bank.

I've heard laserwave mirrors work well with DTR's set, can anyone confirm this?

Caleb

I specified the closest setup I knew. I am not sure how a mirror relates to a laser. However this setup I sent you is a good setup. If you are new to lasers go for it.

Blastertron221 · Aug 26, 2015

Blastertron221 said:
I specified the closest setup I knew. I am not sure how a mirror relates to a laser. However this setup I sent you is a good setup. If you are new to lasers go for it.

What is this Holoor. Go here.

Garoq said:
As others have said, you will need two fully charged (4.2V each) 16340 batteries for the PL520 diode and the driver you selected, due to the voltage requirement of the diode.

Also, here is a link to a tutorial on how to solder a driver to the brass ring and install it in the pill:

http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/installing-testing-sl-sd-1-dx-26110-driver-c6-pill-86327.html

And here are instructions on how to solder the assembled pill to the DTR diode module:

http://static.fw1.biz/templates//58770/myimages/diode_soldering_instructions_small_9112.pdf

If you have any other questions you can call me on the number listed on the Survival Laser "Contact" page.

Good luck! :beer:

Got this in one of my threads. This is somewhat realated and trusted. It is diode instructions. In your case the circular blank battery board is connected to the Blitz Linear Driver power input. For info on connections to the driver go here.
http://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/s...180261/myimages/blitzlinear_documentation.pdf
And for the Test Load tutorial go here. http://d11fdyfhxcs9cr.cloudfront.ne...mages/how_to_use_the_selectable_test_load.pdf
Also the diode I gave you runs at a reccomended 300MA and 6.27V so simulate the diode with 8 on the test load. Meaning place the jumper on 8.

calebarchie · Aug 26, 2015

OK Blastertron221,

Thanks for the resources. The Blitz driver may be a suitable alternate to the Flexmod as I will be using lower powered lasers as opposed to having engraving set up using higher powered lasers to etch wood etc.

Please check my project that I posted a link to on PicEngrave forums. I will not being using a battery as the power source, it needs to run through a DAC from CNC Gcode.

My aim is to try achieve the smallest dot size possible as that affects the resolution of the resulting 'optical' engraving. As chipdouglas stated it is not infact the wattage that determines this but a myriad of factors. The Holor is a calculator that uses these factors to determine the spot size.
Regardless I will be wanting a lower powered laser anyway since it needs to be optically dimmed via ND.

I am considering DTR's RGB kit but the values I need to input into that calculator are not published on their respective datasheets. So I need to find these values some how. These are:
- Beam Quality
- Beam Diameter (aperture?)

And also possibly the optical properties of the G-2 lens vs Acrylic vs 3-element glass:
- EFL
- Divergence
- How it renders the shape of the beam "roundness" etc.

Thanks

marcuspeh · Aug 26, 2015

calebarchie said:
And also possibly the optical properties of the G-2 lens vs Acrylic vs 3-element glass:
- EFL
- Divergence
- How it renders the shape of the beam "roundness" etc.

A 3 element is recommended as the dot will be the roundest and the divergence will be the least.

I wouldn't really recommend you to get the RGB kit from DTR since you have no use for the green LD, just get the PL450 and Opnext 120mW.

Eudaimonium · Aug 26, 2015

There ARE 405nm diodes, it's a standard Bluray wavelength.

You can get those in higher powers, up to 500mW (classic 12x BR diode, don't know the model number), which are still "single-mode", they have the best beam profiles out of all visible diode lasers as far as I know.

Even a standard PHR-803 diode (aprox. 100-120mW) excells in beam quality. I think there's even something like PHR-805, though I'm a bit out of the loop. Just go to eBay and type "405nm diode", should be hard to find what you need.

As Marcus said, use 3-element glass lens, don't use single-element plastic or G-type lenses. You get best beam quality that way.

Regarding the analog driver, I am not too sure, I never used those in lasers (never did that type of application), but if price is a consideration, I believe you can build your own for quite cheap and it really shouldn't be too complex.

If you're going for a computer-controlled engraving machine (yes?), that's not too far from "scanners" we build here, there's a hack where you can use a cheap external soundcard as poor-mans digital-to-analog converter, and then use an amplifier and correction electronics to get the min-max ranges to where you want output current to be.

Now, as for computer software, that's another issue altogether.

calebarchie · Aug 26, 2015

marcuspeh said:
A 3 element is recommended as the dot will be the roundest and the divergence will be the least.

I wouldn't really recommend you to get the RGB kit from DTR since you have no use for the green LD, just get the PL450 and Opnext 120mW.

:thanks: I will be needing a green and initially planned to get the osram 520 hence only said I needed a red and blue.

It will not be burning any paper so the lower the better - just means a lower filter factor.

Eudaimonium said:
There ARE 405nm diodes, it's a standard Bluray wavelength.

You can get those in higher powers, up to 500mW (classic 12x BR diode, don't know the model number), which are still "single-mode", they have the best beam profiles out of all visible diode lasers as far as I know.

Even a standard PHR-803 diode (aprox. 100-120mW) excells in beam quality. I think there's even something like PHR-805, though I'm a bit out of the loop. Just go to eBay and type "405nm diode", should be hard to find what you need.

As Marcus said, use 3-element glass lens, don't use single-element plastic or G-type lenses. You get best beam quality that way.

Regarding the analog driver, I am not too sure, I never used those in lasers (never did that type of application), but if price is a consideration, I believe you can build your own for quite cheap and it really shouldn't be too complex.

If you're going for a computer-controlled engraving machine (yes?), that's not too far from "scanners" we build here, there's a hack where you can use a cheap external soundcard as poor-mans digital-to-analog converter, and then use an amplifier and correction electronics to get the min-max ranges to where you want output current to be.

Now, as for computer software, that's another issue altogether.

This bluray diode looks to have a status around here, I will be building a single laser set up for exposing B&W paper only first - this diode being a handsome candidate.

Although you have to extract it from the whole module, might be a bit tricky and I assume it doesn't come with a lens already so I'll stick a 3-element lens on it too.

Yes, I planned this project around the PicEngrave software to generate gcode from raster. I previously wanted to have a glavo based system but I just could not for the life of me work out this soundcard-to-galvo+-5v-dac having no experience in programming.

Cheers

New to Lasers - Low mW Project

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