How to tighten a loose heatsink? (No set screw)

Hi guys,

I couldn't find any topics on this, (Maybe I need to hone my search-fu?) but sorry in advance if it's common knowledge.

I bought a green laser host that has an aluminium heatsink ring. I expected it to be too tight for the module and need sanding.
Upon receiving my module today I've found the thing's too loose around the module to hold it without gluing, this also makes gluing the module into the heatsink a pain as I need to hold it so it is correctly aligned.

Does anybody have a better solution to this problem instead of the time honored tradition of spots of blu-tak (To hold the module in place) and spots of epoxy (To fix it in place)?

Host in question is the following: Adaptable Host for 12mm Laser Modules - Detailed item view - OdicForce Lasers Online Shop

hello my Victorian friend,

install a set screw (or commonly know as a grub screw) in the side of the heatsink to hold it.



see how i illustrated the set screw holding the module in place in the heatsink here:

Wait one minute, You had something that needed to be assembled that was two parts, you only had part number 1 in your possession
and determined it's size needed to be reduced before you ever had part number 2 in your hand, did I read that correctly ?

So you removed some material from part number 1 and now it doesn't fit part number 2 like it should.

you should get some Arctic Silver that will fix your problem



BTW do you do fortune's :crackup:

FlatCactus said:

Hi guys,

I couldn't find any topics on this, (Maybe I need to hone my search-fu?) but sorry in advance if it's common knowledge.

I bought a green laser host that has an aluminium heatsink ring. I expected it to be too tight for the module and need sanding.
Upon receiving my module today I've found the thing's too loose around the module to hold it without gluing, this also makes gluing the module into the heatsink a pain as I need to hold it so it is correctly aligned.

Does anybody have a better solution to this problem instead of the time honored tradition of spots of blu-tak (To hold the module in place) and spots of epoxy (To fix it in place)?

Host in question is the following: Adaptable Host for 12mm Laser Modules - Detailed item view - OdicForce Lasers Online Shop

Click to expand...

FP, the way I read it I assumed he meant he had expected that when part 1 and 2 arrive, 1 would need to be sanded to fit into 2. When both parts arrived, 1 was already loose in 2 and he never did the sanding that he had expected to do.

Hey Fiddy, I thought about doing a a set screw, but the brass portion of the module will only sit about 1/2 way into the sink, with the other half being filled with circuit board so that the button lines up. Plus, I'd have to get the grub screw and the tap to fit it.

And no Pyro, I don't do fortunes anymore, people started thinking I was a fraud
However I do know well enough not to do any sanding before I've got both parts. On paper the holes should be the same... on paper.

EDIT:

Well whadyaknow!

just found this thread
http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/what-use-gap-between-laser-module-heatsink-73220.html

Tried, it, works, jb weld drying now to seal it in place . Just hope my alignment's good, 'cause I'm stuffed if it's not. (Seems pointless creating this thread now, lesson: search, search, search and search some more)

FlatCactus said:

Hi guys,

I couldn't find any topics on this, (Maybe I need to hone my search-fu?) but sorry in advance if it's common knowledge.

I bought a green laser host that has an aluminium heatsink ring. I expected it to be too tight for the module and need sanding.
Upon receiving my module today I've found the thing's too loose around the module to hold it without gluing, this also makes gluing the module into the heatsink a pain as I need to hold it so it is correctly aligned.

Does anybody have a better solution to this problem instead of the time honored tradition of spots of blu-tak (To hold the module in place) and spots of epoxy (To fix it in place)?

Host in question is the following: Adaptable Host for 12mm Laser Modules - Detailed item view - OdicForce Lasers Online Shop

Click to expand...

Oh god please no! Don't torture the poor little guy like that, what did the laser module ever do to you!?!?!

Never use normal glue or epoxy or blue-tak or feces (all the same for this application) to keep a module/heatsink in place. You need to get some arctic silver thermal epoxy. You can find it at radioshack (Ripoffs-R-us) or online if you need to.

God I hate radioshack! But its a necessary evil.... :/

I built a labby 2W M140 for a friend of mine, he had to pay $30 (R$60) for the 3grams arctic silver thermal epoxy in a retail store

And you guys complaining about radioshack, I wish we had it in Brazil...........

wannaburnstuff said:

God I hate radioshack! But its a necessary evil.... :/

Click to expand...

Haha I always feel the same exact way. I only go to radioshack for specific electrical components (potentiometers, test leads, battery holders, etc) but every time I walk in there I almost get frustrated. I recently went and got a few 3W pots, a project box, a TINY roll of wire, a battery holder and a small motor and i walked out of there with my wallet $63 lighter. Overall radioshack probably paid 10-15$ MAX for all of it.

One of the pots they charged $4.50 for can be found online for $1, but who the hell wants to wait a week and pay shipping for a freaking pot?

It would be great if big box stores sold the random electrical components radioshack has. Both sell cheaply made chinese crap, but radioshack rips you off for the cheap chinese crap.

IIRC the 'standard' is the AixiZ blank modules 12mm--

but many 532nm modules are 11.9mm- so this is a common problem- if you use a glue that may be something you regret if you ever need to replace the module- thermal paste will fill some gaps and if its a lab laser there is little chance it will ever just 'fall' out but for your handheld that needs to be a concern-I am no expert in the transfer of heat when a gap needs to be filled BUT-- i really cannnot believe that a lot is sacrificed using my method- thin copper shims between the laser and the HS- any old radio chrome antenna has a pair of these in between each section- they keep the parts of the antenna from just coming apart-so you can pull the sections apart backwords and the two copper shims will fall out- of course the ones at the end will be smaller than each one closer to the antenna base.

You just choose the ones that fit the best,( usually two) apply the thermal compound and slide all of it together- I have used this many times- when done right no grubs or glue is needed as you should have a fairly good compression fitting. they fit easy as they are already shaped to fit a round part.

GL hak

For those of you that advised against glue... It's already done.
I ended up using a similar idea to hakzaw, I wrapped my module with a single laser of aluminium foil, making sure it was perfectly flat and then press fitting the heatsink. Then I used dots of glue around the top, preventing the module from moving. The result is very strong, but I can simply file/cut/obliterate the surface glue bonds should I ever need to replace the module.

I feel your pain of needing (wanting?) components quick sopark.
When I made a DDL Driver (that I DIDN'T end up using) the only options at the local Jaycar were 1/4W or 1/2W pots, or a (Physically BIG) 15W wire wound. I only needed about 1.5W... Oh well, at least it looks impressive. I guess.