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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

*custom host design*

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Laserbeamk

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Pi R Squared

Pi R Squared

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The Survival Laser hosts all 3 of them are slightly smaller than that, unless you buy the extension tube. You can't get a duty cycle of 2 minutes with a M140 in a host that small, it's impossible.

Alan
 
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Laserbeamk

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I was about to get a survival laser host but someone told me that direct press hosts are much superior than a removable heatsink...... So idk
 
APEX1

APEX1

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A copper host with copper heat sink is much better than a "pressed" heat sink IMO especially if the module is copper it self!
 
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Laserbeamk

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noobphaser215 said:
A copper host with copper heat sink is much better than a "pressed" heat sink IMO especially if the module is copper it self!
Click to expand...

What do you mean by pressed? Direct press or the one like survival lasers?
Also what does the thermal compound syringe do?
 
Pi R Squared

Pi R Squared

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Be sure you know the difference between thermal compound and thermal adhesive. Thermal compound or thermal grease is used to make a better connection with the heat sink, sometimes a module will vary in size slightly or the hole in the heat sink is poorly machined, if it's not a tight fit then you would use some of this to fix the problem, but it is seldom needed. Thermal adhesive serves the same purpose except it is permanent, it glues things together real good.

Alan
 
APEX1

APEX1

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direct press is what I meant! Where'd you get that info from? meaning, who told you a "direct pressed" heatsink is better or worse than others?
I only ask because if you plan on doing your fist build and have little to no experience with soldering and electronics it could be pretty hard for you! You will need ESD protection, test load to set the driver, some sort of helping hand, soldering iron etc... It would make more sense to just grab the module (diode & driver) already soldered together! and all you have to do is solder it to a contact board! Ehgemus and many others sell "JAD kits" (just add diode) hosts!
here's an example http://budgetbeams.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15&zenid=69980e405b64d0cb9f3fe93d793d4bab
 
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Laserbeamk

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noobphaser215 said:
direct press is what I meant! Where'd you get that info from? meaning, who told you a "direct pressed" heatsink is better or worse than others?
I only ask because if you plan on doing your fist build and have little to no experience with soldering and electronics it could be pretty hard for you! You will need ESD protection, test load to set the driver, some sort of helping hand, soldering iron etc... It would make more sense to just grab the module (diode & driver) already soldered together! and all you have to do is solder it to a contact board! Ehgemus and many others sell "JAD kits" (just add diode) hosts!
here's an example Kits : Budget Beams LLC
Click to expand...

Eudaimoium and grainde told me but I don't think I got the complete meaning :huh::huh:
 
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Laserbeamk

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Pi R Squared said:
Be sure you know the difference between thermal compound and thermal adhesive. Thermal compound or thermal grease is used to make a better connection with the heat sink, sometimes a module will vary in size slightly or the hole in the heat sink is poorly machined, if it's not a tight fit then you would use some of this to fix the problem, but it is seldom needed. Thermal adhesive serves the same purpose except it is permanent, it glues things together real good.

Alan
Click to expand...

Alright, so If I glued everything up.. I won't be able to fix any problems in the future right? Like if the driver stops working or the diode fryes.
 
Pi R Squared

Pi R Squared

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Laserbeamk said:
Alright, so If I glued everything up.. I won't be able to fix any problems in the future right? Like if the driver stops working or the diode fryes.
Click to expand...

That's right, be careful where you use that stuff, not so with thermal compound/grease it doesn't glue anything.

Alan
 
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