Old 03-19-2011, 02:23 PM #1
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Default Best way to wire & hold button on 150mw module with spring

This my first post here. I've been fascinated with lasers ever since I saw Pink Floyd in 1992. I started with the 5mw green pointer and was impressed with what a small inexpensive device would do. So I ordered a 150mw green module off ebay from Laser_Place, bought a couple mounts that have a set screw that holds the module, a Mastech model HY1803D power supply, Laser safety glasses and 6 laser bounce mirrors. Everything has came in. The module showed up yesterday. I asked for one with wire leads to connect to the power supply but they shipped the type with a spring. I have quickly jumped a wire to the spring & body and it is real bright. Much brighter that the the 5mw pointer. I want to mount it in a more permanent way. What is the best way for me to hold that little button down? I'd rather have have a module with leads and no button. If I buy another module, who has the best price for what I need? It took over 3 weeks to get this one and don't want to buy from them again.


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Old 03-19-2011, 02:35 PM #2
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Default Re: Best way to wire & hold button on 150mw module with spring

Hello and welcome to the forum!

Just shunt the button, soldering a bit of wire to the contacts of the button.
Something like this:

It's a bit hard to see, but there's a bit of red wire on the bottom side of the driver.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/tr...ght-61524.html
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:42 PM #3
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Default Re: Best way to wire & hold button on 150mw module with spring

I spy a diode on the input. Were you running a 3V driver off a Li-Ion?
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:18 PM #4
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Default Re: Best way to wire & hold button on 150mw module with spring

Although somewhat unrelated to this thread, you spy correctly, and you guessed
right on the purpose, too.
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:21 PM #5
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Default Re: Best way to wire & hold button on 150mw module with spring

It was fresh on my mind from playing with some 3V green's at 4.2V the other day to see if they'd work or would need diodes. Needless to say, they needed diodes. I didn't actually kill a driver, but took the hot glue on it melting as a sign to turn the voltage down. heh.

Wouldn't it have been simpler.. and prettier, to use the diode to bridge the switch though? Seems like that would accomplish the same thing, and only need one component. Or does the switch on that particular driver only control a transistor, and isn't in line with the battery?
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Last edited by qumefox; 03-19-2011 at 08:22 PM.
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