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Melles Griot 05-LHR-111 wiring problem

F

ForgetHisenberg

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Hi everyone, I have a Melles Griot 05-LHR-111 made in 1986. I bought it for $50 and wanted to use it for general laser theory, and to get experience on high tension systems. I received it, and it has its plug cut off. It has a middle wire encased in a clear tubing with more bare wire surrounding the clear rubber, and a final black rubber encasing. I'd like to get this thing running, so can anyone give me any pointers? I know the starting, operating voltage, and amperage. I was thinking of using a 12v battery, and some type of transformer, with a amperage/ voltage regulator.

I've put together small diode lasers from ebay, but I've never messed with such things before.

Thanks,
Nick

"If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it?"
 





icecruncher

icecruncher

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ForgetHisenberg said:
Hi everyone, I have a Melles Griot 05-LHR-111 made in 1986. I bought it for $50 and wanted to use it for general laser theory, and to get experience on high tension systems. I received it, and it has its plug cut off. It has a middle wire encased in a clear tubing with more bare wire surrounding the clear rubber, and a final black rubber encasing. I'd like to get this thing running, so can anyone give me any pointers? I know the starting, operating voltage, and amperage. I was thinking of using a 12v battery, and some type of transformer, with a amperage/ voltage regulator.

I've put together small diode lasers from ebay, but I've never messed with such things before.

Thanks,
Nick

"If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it?"
Click to expand...

Please post pics. Couldn't understand the description of the wires and head.

But, as a starting point, you need a special power supply for he-ne lasers. Try researching them on this site or go to Sam's Laser FAQ which has anything you want to know.

http://photonlexicon.com/repairfaq/sam/lasersam.htm
http://photonlexicon.com/repairfaq/sam/laserhps.htm#hpstoc

In general, they have a starter that supplies a large voltage to basically kick them on. It then drops to a voltage they run at. It's all done automatically in the power supply. You can make one, but if you don't know what you're doing, it might be a rough road.

Commercial power supplies AFAIK, basically come in 3 types, lab, ac power brick and dc power bricks.


You need to find one that will supply the correct current for the head you have. Usually the bigger the head/tube the more expensive and powerful the supply has to be.
 
Last edited:
F

ForgetHisenberg

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Thanks, I'll look around.

And I apologize for the vague description of the wiring. I'll upload a picture right now.
download1n.jpg
 
daguin

daguin

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The middle wire is the positive lead. The woven, wire "shield" is the negative lead

Peace,
dave
 
daguin

daguin

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ForgetHisenberg said:
Is there anyway to refit this wire with another connector?
Click to expand...

You can add anything you can solder to the wires. You will need several thicknesses of shrink tubing to insulate the HV, but I do it all the time.

What type of plug did you want to use?

Peace,
dave
 
daguin

daguin

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ForgetHisenberg said:
If we can get the original connector, that would be great. Since then I can find the PSU from just about anyplace.

I'm open to suggestions, as I said before, I have no experience with this type of system.

Here's a .pdf file of the laser:

https://mail-attachment.googleuserc...307403075887&sads=pUjsjzRTlCblHhg61hd7rlQt1ss
Click to expand...

Google account not available right now.

Does the socket on the PSU look like this one

Meredith Instruments : Male Alden Connector & Coax [ALDEN-MC] - $20.00 - The source for laser surplus

Peace,
dave
 
daguin

daguin

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ForgetHisenberg said:
The PSU has the female plug than the male, but yeah.
Click to expand...

Depending on your circumstance and purpose there, you could also cut the socket off of the PSU and wire the laser directly.

It is the same wire-to-wire connection that replacing the plug will be.

Peace,
dave
 
daguin

daguin

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ForgetHisenberg said:
It would work like that. How should I go about doing that? HV tips?
Click to expand...

Solder your wire-to-wire connections. Get enough insulation on the different joints to prevent 2800V from jumping through ;) As you can see in the exposed wire end, there is a continuous plastic shield between the wires in the stock coax.

Peace,
dave
 
J

james1095

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I don't like to splice the coax. When I had a damaged cable on a laser head I got a whole new cord and plug from Sam G that had been salvaged from a dead laser head. Popped the end cap off and replaced the whole cord.

If splicing is a necessity, insulate the center wire very carefully. The outer shield is at earth potential but you can see 8-12kV on the center wire before the discharge strikes.
 
aryntha

aryntha

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Unfortunately sometimes with the potting compound involved, and the way the cord is affixed, there's simply no way to rewire the coax. So I've had to splice at least once.

I have a green Lasos HeNe that I've been trying to fix for a while, fo rsome reason I just can't get it right. I thought my resistances were the same, but I must have some bad resistors in there, and that might have been from not letting the potting silicone dry completely before firing it up.

Sometimes a splice -can- be the cleanest way, just depending on how the laser manufacturer managed it all in the first place.
 
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