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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Laservision Digital SE HeNe laser

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Aug 31, 2015
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Hi There,

New here, and don’t know a whole lot on the subject of lasers. I tried researching, and didn’t come up with much information other than the company is a bust and the gear is old lol. I found a couple posts making reference to my question, but there was never a stated answer. So I decided to join up and start a new thread instead of bumping a 4+ year old one with no replies. And I have pictures, every likes pictures!

I have recently found in an old warehouse an Eclipse Technologies Inc, Laservision Digital SE (HeNe 5mw laser) , and Laservision Quad Controller


Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr

Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr

Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr

Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr

I have the controller, the laser head, and 1 wire (100ft long) to go from controller to head, and power cords. (as pictured)

I can plug in the controller and everything lights up, then goes into its first mode. All buttons and sliders work, and lights respond accordingly on the panel, including the beat mic input.

The laser head however has no response, there is an internal “click” that can be heard when listening closely when the power switch is turned on, but nothing more. There is no movement of the servo/stepper motors, there is no light, nothing. I tried using the cable in the various “head” ports out of the controller with no luck. Google leads me nowhere, so now I’m here.

Any help or insight at all is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
 





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Wow I haven't seen one of these come up in ages...

First I'd make sure all the cables are clean and working, as well as all the ports. Also check and make sure that you have all the Interlocks are satisfied if there are any. Id also confirm that the tube is starting. I'm no expert on these but I think that if the tube doesn't start the head goes into a lockout of sorts. These are fairly old and it's entirely possible the tube is broken or hard to start. The click you're hearing may be the power supply trying to start the tube.
 
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Thank you for the response. Yeah I can imagine that this is ancient tech compared to what is new and lively on these forums!


How do I confirm if the tube is starting? There doesn't appear to be any indication of this.

I brought out my multimeter and tested the cables, and all have continuity, all the ports look clean and free of any corrosion.


I opened it up to see what is going on and if there was anything obvious:

The click I here is coming from the main power supply directly behind the switch (didn't get a pic). It's is almost install after flicking the power on, and also make the same click when power is turned off. it makes the sound of typical 12v 5 pin relay when energized. (I'm a car person so it's something I can relate lol)




The board looks to be in good shape and nothing is lose, no charring, no smells.

Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr




There is this inline on the power wire to the tube (from the ballast), which looks like was nicked and slightly corroded. Upon close inspection the wires are still intact, just have some oxidation.

Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr

Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr



The transformer is in working order, and hums when powered on. I tested input/output voltage and it is working.

Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr



this is the tube:

Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr



And lastly the ballast:

Untitled by eric_duva, on Flickr


I poked and prodded with my multimeter to see where there was power and not. I don't know circuitboards well, but I know inputs/outputs, and basics of electricity. Everywhere seems to exhibit what I would expect at the main connections points coming to and from the board. I can confirm power/signal is going into the ballast, but nothing is coming out. Is there something I should be doing differently?

I realize it's cut off in the picture, but the ballast has a red, yellow, and 2 blacks going in, and a single red and black going out to the tube.


If its pooched, then it's pooched and I'll leave it at that, but I want to know for certain other than just plugging it in and it not working, I like to tinker and fix things.
 
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My suggestion would be to find someone with a oudin coil for starters and see if the tube is gas intact. Then go from there.

If it is up to air then nothing else really matters.
 
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If you can confirm that power is reaching the high-voltage power supply (that power tech. black brick) and get no light from the tube, the tube might be dead. It's been a long time since I've seen one of those with a silver tubing instead of black. There's been more than one of those that even though they were hard sealed, have ended up leaking. REO doesn't exactly have a great track record with leaky tubes. If it doesn't sound broken that is. Or if you like I can test them manually, but that of course would require you to send them to me. However if they are dead I can probably replace the relatively easily for you. I may even have a similar or better one you can use.

I'll also be home shortly and if you're free, I'd be happy to discuss it over Skype in person as well.
 
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If you can confirm that power is reaching the high-voltage power supply (that power tech. black brick) and get no light from the tube, the tube might be dead. It's been a long time since I've seen one of those with a silver tubing instead of black. There's been more than one of those that even though they were hard sealed, have ended up leaking. REO doesn't exactly have a great track record with leaky tubes. If it doesn't sound broken that is. Or if you like I can test them manually, but that of course would require you to send them to me. However if they are dead I can probably replace the relatively easily for you. I may even have a similar or better one you can use.

I'll also be home shortly and if you're free, I'd be happy to discuss it over Skype in person as well.


Power is going into the "black brick", I can confirm that. There is no power coming out, no matter what way I tried to get a reading with the multimeter.

How would it sound broken? I don't hear anything other than the turn on click, and transformer hum. There are no loose parts anywhere.




Sorry I'm from Niagara Falls, Canada and was already in bed lol. I really appreciate your offer and would like to discuss with you the options/costs and just plain learn more about the subject and what I have :) My Skype email is: (edited out, already made contact, thanks)

Thanks
 
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sounds like the power supply might be dead then. (which wouldn't be a surprise) That or it's not receiving the power required to run properly. It should be getting what is listed on the label, likely around 24V at 1.5 amps or so. You might try replacing it first. the two large wires are the high voltage running to the tube obviously. I'd see if a surplus shop like Meredth Instruments hase a comparable one for sale if you call them, as getting one new from power tech. would likely be very expensive. if you had a spare supply you could test the tube, but probably best to tackle one thing at a time. there's been more than one occasion that an old supply like that has failed for no apparent reason at all.

P.S. I'd also recommend sending private info in a PM and not posting it publicly. you never know who might be reading the forum.
 
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Pman

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I am getting a gift of a free tube from someone this week but no power supply. Would like to get you the information as soon as it arrives to see what you think if you don't mind.
 
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sounds like the power supply might be dead then. (which wouldn't be a surprise) That or it's not receiving the power required to run properly. It should be getting what is listed on the label, likely around 24V at 1.5 amps or so. You might try replacing it first. the two large wires are the high voltage running to the tube obviously. I'd see if a surplus shop like Meredth Instruments. they might have a one comparable for sale if you call them, as getting one new from power tech. would likely be very expensive. if you had a spare supply you could test the tube, but probably best to tackle one thing at a time. there's been more than one occasion that an old supply like that has failed for no apparent reason at all.

P.S. I'd also recommend sending private info in a PM and not posting it publicly. you never know who might be reading the forum.


I am really grateful for you wanting to help. I am the same way on my more regular forums, always extending help to anyone and everyone who asks. It's a great feeling when I'm on the other end of it asking for help and someone goes out of there way. I can't thank you enough.


I do not have any extra parts laying around to try and test the tube separately. All I have is a multimeter, basic electrical knowledge, and some soldering skills. This is my first laser, which was literally a warehouse find and now become a learning/tinker project.


I am getting a gift of a free tube from someone this week but no power supply. Would like to get you the information as soon as it arrives to see what you think if you don't mind.

I'm not sure exactly what you are getting at? Is this meant for me or for ultimatekaiser? If theres any more information you need from me let me know and I'll do what I can :)
 
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I am really grateful for you wanting to help. I am the same way on my more regular forums, always extending help to anyone and everyone who asks. It's a great feeling when I'm on the other end of it asking for help and someone goes out of there way. I can't thank you enough.

I'm glad that makes two of us then. I'll see if I can catch you over the next couple of days, and I can help you get started.

This is my first laser, which was literally a warehouse find and now become a learning/tinker project.

That's the best kind of project :)

I am getting a gift of a free tube from someone this week but no power supply. Would like to get you the information as soon as it arrives to see what you think if you don't mind.

Sounds good.
 

WizardG

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"Power is going into the "black brick", I can confirm that. There is no power coming out, no matter what way I tried to get a reading with the multimeter."

Ummm....It's (generally speaking) a very bad idea to try and measure the output of one of these HeNe bricks with a DMM. The output from a working brick is several thousand volts, well beyond the capability of ordinary meters. You could try and measure the current by wiring the meter in series with the tube but the starting pulse from the power brick can still kill your meter in a heartbeat.

If you're gifted a new tube, be sure to short the power leads going to the old tube together before trying to wire in the new one. If the old tube has leaked up to air then the capacitors in the power brick can be holding enough charge to give you a very nasty shock.
 
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It's power to not from the brick we were measuring. :) and it should have an Alden so that shouldn't be necessary.
 
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"Power is going into the "black brick", I can confirm that. There is no power coming out, no matter what way I tried to get a reading with the multimeter."

Ummm....It's (generally speaking) a very bad idea to try and measure the output of one of these HeNe bricks with a DMM. The output from a working brick is several thousand volts, well beyond the capability of ordinary meters. You could try and measure the current by wiring the meter in series with the tube but the starting pulse from the power brick can still kill your meter in a heartbeat.

If you're gifted a new tube, be sure to short the power leads going to the old tube together before trying to wire in the new one. If the old tube has leaked up to air then the capacitors in the power brick can be holding enough charge to give you a very nasty shock.

We live and learn. I guess I was lucky that I wasn't able to get a reading then. I was using a cheapy DMM since I new there was a risk of me frying it (wouldn't be the first time lol).

Thank you though, this is all new information to me. I'm in the process of coordinating with ultimatekaiser to get his help/input on what to do.
 
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