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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Soldering questions

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Ok i'm struggling with some issues soldering these LD's without over heating them. I know heat = bad, no kidding but i'm not sure what i'm doing wrong here.

i'm using the following solder and iron

solder -http://shop3.outpost.com/product/4455316;jsessionid=-Lsm6zMiW6ne3gd8RN8rYQ**.node2?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

Iron - http://shop3.outpost.com/product/2818734?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

the iron melts the solder without issue, the issue is the solder doesn't stick to a damn thing. sometimes it will stick to the wires but I can't get it to stay on the posts from the LD. Everytime I try it creates a cold solder join and thats really bad in this application.

So far i've managed to solder one red and my Blu but the amount of solder I had to use was insane just to make it stick, on one of them once I verified the connection was there I used crazy glue just to ease my mind about the connection.

am I doing something wrong? is there some skill i'm lacking or just something i'm over looking?
 





S

SenKat

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You MUST use some solder flux/paste.....it assists with solder flow, and makes the impossible possible ! :)
 
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Are you wetting the tip of the iron (with solder) before you apply the tip to the pin?
If the iron is effectively dry it cannot transfer the heat efficiently and needs to be held on longer to get the pin up to temp which gives more time for the heat to spread along the pin to the LD.

The way I use to wet the tip is to run a good bit of solder onto the iron tip, flick the excess on the floor (not if you are working indoors:)) then add just a small amount more just before holding it, and the solder, against the pin.

Hope that (and senkats flux) help

Regards rog8811
 
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Ok so SenKat I need flux with the resin core solder?

And Rog, yes i'm wetting the Iron first, it's got a fair amount of solder on it before I attempt to touch it to the pins.
 
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rog8811 said:
Hope that (and senkats flux) help

Good idea to include a tiny bit of flux with the driver kit. But I don't know what sort of container you could send it in.

Senkats-famous-makes-the-soldering-impossible-possible-flux
All this and more can be yours for the LOW LOW PRICE of only $10*

[sub]*plus a small S&H charge[/sub]
 
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I've soldered countless connections over the years and never needed separate flux paste. (Only when using a torch and brazing metal parts together or doing plumbing.) The rosin core serves that purpose.
Just tin everything first - the tip of the iron, and each lead that you're connecting, before trying to solder them together. If the solder isn't sticking to the gold pins of the LD, maybe they have thermal paste or even just finger oils on them.
 

Gazoo

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Hmmm...I am using Kester "44" 60/58 rosin core solder. Maybe this is why I am not having as much trouble getting things to stick that others are. I think this is 60% Tin and 58% lead.. :p

I did at one time have some red liquid acid flux. A little dab of that stuff would make solder stick to just about anything.
 
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Gazoo said:
I did at one time have some red liquid acid flux. A little dab of that stuff would make solder stick to just about anything.

Yep, even skin! OUCH!
 
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I can't tin the pins ahead of time, I can't get the solder off the iron onto the pins, thats the problems i'm having.

no finger oil on the pins, i'm careful of that.

I thought about maybe using a dremel to sand off the gold plating on the pins to expose bare metal.

hmm i'm gonna go get another type of solder and see if I have better luck. I take it I should still stick with the acid free stuff?
 
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Really, just try a tiny dab of flux on the pin. I mean REALLY tiny, as in just touch the pin to the flux. That will almose certainly fix your soldering issues.
 

Kenom

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Heck yah that's what I do. I use both silver bearing solder (non fuxed) and flux core solder exactly the same as gazoo. I CANNOT get solder onto the pins of the laser diode without fluxin up the pin first. as soon as I do I hit it with heat and a bit of solder simultaineously and the solder litterally flows onto the pin. DO NOT NOT USE FLUX. My teacher a long time told me taht whatever your soldering needs to be up to the temperature to melt solder in order to correctly accept the solder onto it. Now if this is truly the case it explains why I cna't get solder onto the pin wihtout flux. with it however it's instantaneous. BOOM! tinned.
 

Benm

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You should be able to solder these LD's with flux core solder (the kind for electronics, not plumbing) just fine. There really is no need for separte flux whatsoever.

If you've never soldered electronics before, go practice on pieces of wire or 2 cent resistors first, not on $15+ laser diodes! Soldering just takes some practice, but even kids can learn to get it right with some effort - don't worry ;)
 
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60/58 solder ?? That's 60% tin and 58% lead which adds to 118% ???
Heat the connection and add flux core solder to the heated joint. It can be done quickly with practice on scrap parts. Soldering is an art.

Mike
 

Gazoo

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Hmmm...on the top of the spool is printed "Alloy SN60" and "Core 58".
 
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Hemlock Mike said:
Heat the connection and add flux core solder to the heated joint. It can be done quickly with practice on scrap parts. Soldering is an art.

Mike

Soldering IS an art!

For most things flux core solder works effortlessly for me, and with some practice one can make do with just about anything. But while I've soldered more expensive components than a red LD with just my lighter and an old solder drip peeled up from the floor, if it's available to me I'll still take the easier way and use a bit of flux.

Don't stand when you can sit, don't sit when you can lie down, and never ever volunteer.
 




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