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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Mini Dorky Overkill heatsink (from PC)

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Jul 27, 2010
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Just like this one, but smaller, with details -
http://laserpointerforums.com/f65/dorky-overkill-heatsink-445nm-54490.html

Mini Dorky Overkill Heatsink

1- Put wires (and TVS, if you want ESD protection) on your laser module. See my posting about inexpensive ESD protection here -
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/inexpensive-esd-static-protection-55979.html
2- Take one small heat sink from a junker computer.
3- Cut a mounting plate out of copper or aluminum. Thickness should be 0.100 to 0.125 inches thick. Copper is MUCH better than aluminum, both for thermal and for strength reasons.
4- Using progressively larger drills, drill a hole in the center of your mounting plate. Carefully finish with a 27/64 drill or something just under 11mm in diameter.
5- Use an 11mm x0.5mm tap to thread the laser module mounting hole.
6- Set or clamp the mounting plate to the heat sink.
7- Looking at the heat sink fins, mark the mounting plate edge where there are gaps in the heat sink fins. This will allow you to miss drilling into the fins when adding the hold-down screws.
8- On the mounting plate, use a straight edge to draw lines marking where the gaps in the fins are.
9- Pick four places on the mounting plate and drill four holes through the plate and down through the heat sink. I used a drill sized for tapping 6-32 holes.
10- Remove the mounting plate and re-drill the four holes with a drill slightly larger than a #6 screw.
11- Tap the four screw holes in the heat sink with a 6-32 tap.
12- Add screws to verify placement! It should now look like this.
05-Threaded+Plate.JPG


13- Drill a hole ~1/8" in the center of the 11mm module mounting hole.
06-Heatsink+Hole.JPG


14- Thread the laser module into the hole. If you used aluminum, you may want to glue the module in as well because of the relative softness of the metal.
07-Add+Module.JPG


The most important part of mounting the laser module is that the flat back-side of the module, including the laser diode itself, should be flush and come into contact with as much of the heat sink face as possible. *This is the most effective path to draw heat away from the laser diode!*

15 - Coat the back of the laser module and mounting plate with thermal paste and screw the mounting plate to the heat sink. Clean up the excess paste and you are done!
08-Done.JPG

It's not a sexy host, but it's a good mount for a "lab laser" application where you want to keep the module very cool over long periods of time.
 
Last edited:





Joined
Jul 27, 2010
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The sweet part is, at 200ma, 6.1V & 68F, it doesn't even get warm. That's a 405nm LD.
 
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
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A question--
And sorry to revive an old thread but this avoids me posting a new one!

Screwing into a copper mounting plate seems to work really well, with the back flush with the main sink surface like this one and you said it is the most efficient path.
But surely there would be more surface area if it was a simple hold drilled in with a set screw and the circumference received the contact? I know the idea is to get diode to contact but would that make such a difference? :anyone:

The maxsink by flaminpyro seems to imply to me that a mounting plate is not necessary.

Just wondering if I should go buy a tap and postpone the building of my 3 445 labby's to mount them like this.
Would it make that much of a difference?

thanks in advance
 
Last edited:

Helios

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A question--
And sorry to revive an old thread but this avoids me posting a new one!

Screwing into a copper mounting plate seems to work really well, with the back flush with the main sink surface like this one and you said it is the most efficient path.
But surely there would be more surface area if it was a simple hold drilled in with a set screw and the circumference received the contact? I know the idea is to get diode to contact but would that make such a difference? :anyone:

The maxsink by flaminpyro seems to imply to me that a mounting plate is not necessary.

Just wondering if I should go buy a tap and postpone the building of my 3 445 labby's to mount them like this.
Would it make that much of a difference?

thanks in advance

As long as the tolerances are tight and the heatsink has enough max and or active cooling it will work just fine with a 12mm whole and set screw. Unless you have a crazy application I think you are over thinking it.
 
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As long as the tolerances are tight and the heatsink has enough max and or active cooling it will work just fine with a 12mm whole and set screw. Unless you have a crazy application I think you are over thinking it.

I will be running a 445 at about 1.5A for hours, hence my obsessing :whistle:
So that should be fine with a fan.

Thank you for your help.
 

Helios

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I will be running a 445 at about 1.5A for hours, hence my obsessing :whistle:
So that should be fine with a fan.

Thank you for your help.

The best route would be to go with direct press. Or even better yet use a TEC to keep it cool.
 
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The best route would be to go with direct press. Or even better yet use a TEC to keep it cool.

Direct press is above my ability to be safe for the diode.
TEC, well I want to avoid drawing unecessary current as effeciency is a factor as these will be used on batteries. Wow I must sound so fussy.

I will stop worrying and just drill a hole into a CPU heatsink.

Thanks again.
 

Helios

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Direct press is above my ability to be safe for the diode.
TEC, well I want to avoid drawing unecessary current as effeciency is a factor as these will be used on batteries. Wow I must sound so fussy.

I will stop worrying and just drill a hole into a CPU heatsink.

Thanks again.

It should be fine if its a large heatsink with a fan. Just monitor the temperature. I have a 100W LED that I mounted to a CPU heasink with fan....and it only takes 5 seconds to get burn your flesh hot :cryyy: I need to pick up a TEC but you should be fine as is.
 
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It should be fine if its a large heatsink with a fan. Just monitor the temperature. I have a 100W LED that I mounted to a CPU heasink with fan....and it only takes 5 seconds to get burn your flesh hot :cryyy: I need to pick up a TEC but you should be fine as is.

Ill just drill a hole in a copper core one :yh:
If you're patient enough I am planning to go e-scrap hunting and if I find a TEC i'll sent it to you. For free of course. May only be a few weeks though..
 

Helios

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Ill just drill a hole in a copper core one :yh:
If you're patient enough I am planning to go e-scrap hunting and if I find a TEC i'll sent it to you. For free of course. May only be a few weeks though..

That would be awesome. This project is getting more expensive than I anticipated. Keeping it cool and buying batteries that can discharge 10A has been a PITA
 




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