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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Dorcy Jr- Blu-Ray!!
- Thread starter Dark_Horse
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Re: Dorcy Jr- Blu-Ray??
Capacitor- I use the "standard" 10u-16volt tantalum capacitor soldered in parallel across the LD pins, (+to+ and -to-) as a general practice on all of my diodes. I have seen people use as small as a .10u-16volt, the DDL circuit that Daedal posted called for a 47u 16volt cap, I believe. I have even seen a small surface-mount cap soldered right between the diode pins, I have not tried that yet, but if that works, it looks perfect. You should make sure that the voltage rating on you cap is at least 16volt, as you can see very short spikes up to 15volts at start-up, the larger the capacity, the "softer start" you will have. In theory this gradual charging of the capacitor "slowly" turns-on your diode, easier on the diode, btw, by slow, I am talking like 2ms. Also, the Dorcy circuit does have some small surface mount caps on its own board, because of this, many people opt to risk eliminating the cap directly on the diode.
While building this laser, I wiggled the pins a little to much and broke the negative pin flush with diode face, so I was able to solder a wire to the terminal and get it running, but in my haste, I did not add a cap to mine this time, I am not recommending this course, and I will add one later, playing now.
Dark Horse
Resistors- 30-22 ohm (more resistance=lower current) I used a 22ohm-1/4 watt, but you could use 1/2 watt if you wanted to be safer, there is no voltage rating on these, no polarity either.
Capacitor- I use the "standard" 10u-16volt tantalum capacitor soldered in parallel across the LD pins, (+to+ and -to-) as a general practice on all of my diodes. I have seen people use as small as a .10u-16volt, the DDL circuit that Daedal posted called for a 47u 16volt cap, I believe. I have even seen a small surface-mount cap soldered right between the diode pins, I have not tried that yet, but if that works, it looks perfect. You should make sure that the voltage rating on you cap is at least 16volt, as you can see very short spikes up to 15volts at start-up, the larger the capacity, the "softer start" you will have. In theory this gradual charging of the capacitor "slowly" turns-on your diode, easier on the diode, btw, by slow, I am talking like 2ms. Also, the Dorcy circuit does have some small surface mount caps on its own board, because of this, many people opt to risk eliminating the cap directly on the diode.
While building this laser, I wiggled the pins a little to much and broke the negative pin flush with diode face, so I was able to solder a wire to the terminal and get it running, but in my haste, I did not add a cap to mine this time, I am not recommending this course, and I will add one later, playing now.
Dark Horse
cbrian4
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dude you totally stole my idea! ;D Im so gonna do this now!
Kenom
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WOW. this is absolutely wonderful. I'm glad that my tutorial has made such a wonderful impression on you so much so that you had to improve upon it and make it better. I NEVER would have thought this would be a good host for a BR. I'm pleased that it is though. the host is perfect and making it switchable is one of the best idea's I've seen in a good long time.
GOOD JOB!!!
GOOD JOB!!!
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Now I see the pictures!! I built my first PS3 BR into one of these Dorcy's some time back. I found a power boost board which puts out about 6'5 volts with a LiIon cell and added a 78L05 on top. It is indeed a tight fit in that head.
Nice work ;D
Mike
Nice work ;D
Mike
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Yeah, I know there are the 2 SM caps on the board, and I would think this is all you would need. I usually place the"diode-cap" on anyway, if I can, just a "10u 16v tant". This one however, is just the diode connections wired directly to the pads on the "power-connection-PCB" in the Dorcy, no added cap present (+ the previously-mentioned resistor).
What I would really like to find is a better place for is the resistor. You can replace the yellow ground-wire with the resistor, but then you have to make sure not to short your heat-sink with the grounded-body, or you could bypass the resistor altogether, bad for a burner, this would have to be death for a BR, right??
[highlight]Lifetime update:[/highlight] I added a full 1-hour-constant-on cycle today, looking for minerals that I could flourence with the Dorcy in a rock shop, (the shop owner was enthralled).The BR is still putting out 16mA, no problems.
Thanks again Kenom!! ;D
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Kenom
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here all this time mike had one. Man if we'd have known about this all along...........
shame on you mike for not sharing earlier.
shame on you mike for not sharing earlier.
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I posted it way back then and got a ho-hum responce as I recall.
Now the labels are curling and the lens is dirty in my coat pocket.
Mike
Now the labels are curling and the lens is dirty in my coat pocket.
Mike
Kenom
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wow. and to think I missed that.
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Basically, yes.
Mike, Did you use the stock "Dorcy-circuit-board"in your build, in your post you mentioned that you had replaced the PCB in the host with another booster circuit? Is this correct? I am only adding a resistor to Kenom's original tutorial, well... and replacing the diode with a BR of course.
What is your output and lifetime so far?
Dark Horse
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DH ---
It's been a long time (for me!) If I recall correctly, the provided board supplied enough voltage at the low current needed that all I needed was a 5v Reg and a resistor. I use a 3.6V LiIon cell and I get 10 to 14 mW out depending on the temperature. As I recall, I was surprised that the boost kicked out the volts. They change these all that time and yours may be different. The regulator fits into the "pit" where the spring used to go on the PCB.
Mike
It's been a long time (for me!) If I recall correctly, the provided board supplied enough voltage at the low current needed that all I needed was a 5v Reg and a resistor. I use a 3.6V LiIon cell and I get 10 to 14 mW out depending on the temperature. As I recall, I was surprised that the boost kicked out the volts. They change these all that time and yours may be different. The regulator fits into the "pit" where the spring used to go on the PCB.
Mike
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Thanks tomcat,
Why would you need to redriver it? I spend the $24 for the "Dorcy Jr" primarily because of its very versatile boost circuit. As I stated before, if someone can come up with a really nice solution for placing a pot into this host, that would really be great- install diode of your choice, (red, PS3, or BR burner), and "dial-up" the correct current. That would really be cool.
Dark Horse
