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DIY Laser Torch






R

R._Morris

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joniverson said:
Thanks guys for the response. I was going to build this exactly as indicated but- due to the wait I keep having with dealextreme, I've opted for a slightly different route. My local department store has a Brinkman light that uses a pair of the 123 cells. More expensive than the dealextreme one, but I see the mod being done fairly easily. Will post an update when this is done. It won't be as detailed as this one though.

Out of curiosity, how long is the DealExtreme shipping wait to the US?
Let us know how the Brinkman works out.
 
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sorry, Im really new to this so this question might be wrong.

In the following picture the didoe is in the washer but there is something soldered to the diode Im guessing the senkat diodes dont come with what ever is soldered to the diode in the picture can anyone tell me what is soldered to the diode in the picture so i can add it onto mine? Thanks
 

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thanks for answering so quick I have another question comming

is this a picture of the  TO-39? if i ordered one would it come looking exactly like that with the capacitor and black thing on top or do i need to solder that on myself?

I have absolutly no electrical experience... I have only soldered li-po battery packs but this looks like a fun project
 

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Daedal

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OKC_Kat said:
[quote author=joniverson link=1186966870/15#27 date=1187055577]Thanks guys for the response. I was going to build this exactly as indicated but- due to the wait I keep having with dealextreme, I've opted for a slightly different route. My local department store has a Brinkman light that uses a pair of the 123 cells. More expensive than the dealextreme one, but I see the mod being done fairly easily. Will post an update when this is done. It won't be as detailed as this one though.

Out of curiosity, how long is the DealExtreme shipping wait to the US?
Let us know how the Brinkman works out.[/quote]

DX usually takes a week to a few weeks. If something is not in stock there, they usually send you the things that are in stock and then you get the others in a different package. They're good about this stuff :)

--DDL
 

Daedal

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mhouse974, The parts soldered on the back of the LD are the Silicon Diode (black) and the Capacitor(brown).

mhouse974 said:
thanks for answering so quick I have another question comming

is this a picture of the TO-39? if i ordered one would it come looking exactly like that with the capacitor and black thing on top or do i need to solder that on myself?

I have absolutly no electrical experience... I have only soldered li-po battery packs but this looks like a fun project

Daedal said:
I personally used the TO-92 package, but the spec sheet show that it is rated up to a maximum of 100mA and I did not want people using it and having it kill their diodes. I have personally tested mine though and it was on for about 5 minutes and there wasn't much heat from it at all. It could be a special case, or it could have been something else, either way, I'd rather be safe than sorry, and for that I advised to one of the other two packages.

This is not a very difficult project, but you have to be careful so that you get as clean of a solder line as you can :)

GL;
DDL
 

Gazoo

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I answered your question in the other thread...no need to post the same question in multiple threads..thanks.. :)
 
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Gazoo said:
I answered your question in the other thread...no need to post the same question in multiple threads..thanks.. :)

ok, i removed the question from this thread, thanks Gazoo... your a great help, now its time to order the resistors and capacitors
 
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I've received almost everything except the LD.

I was thinking about the LM317's size. I think i will get the same problem when i'm going to build all parts into the MDXL. Would it be a problem if the heatsink of the LM317 touches the metal ring of the MDXL flashlight? since it is just a heatsink :-?
 

chimo

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Better re-read the data sheet. The heatsink tab is common with the Vout pin. So, if the MDXL metal case is common with the battery negative, you will have to analyze how the circuit will perform by grounding Vout - I suspect it will not work not too well. :)

Knasterpijp said:
I've received almost everything except the LD.

I was thinking about the LM317's size. I think i will get the same problem when i'm going to build all parts into the MDXL. Would it be a problem if the heatsink of the LM317 touches the metal ring of the MDXL flashlight? since it is just a heatsink  :-?
 

Daedal

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Is it really that big? :eek: This this the 3rd time I heard that comment. I've tried it and it was fine... I guess You might have to go with a cut TO-220 then.. :-[

Hope you can buy them close by where you are...

--DDL
 
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Daedal said:
Is it really that big? :eek:  This this the 3rd time I heard that comment. I've tried it and it was fine... I guess You might have to go with a cut TO-220 then..  :-[

Hope you can buy them close by where you are...

--DDL

yeah, the one you used, is alot smaller you cheater ;)
 

Daedal

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Well... I did say that I used the TO-92, but I also did say that it's only rated up to 100mA. :(

I changed the first post after that last reply so that it won't be a source of anymore confusion. ;)

--DDL
 
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chimo said:
Better re-read the data sheet.  The heatsink tab is common with the Vout pin. So, if the MDXL metal case is common with the battery negative, you will have to analyze how the circuit will perform by grounding Vout - I suspect it will not work not too well. :)

yeah i'll have a look in the data sheet and hope i can find the answer, or maybe bending the LM317 into a horizontal position will do the trick.

thnx chimo!
 




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