112d diode really sensitive?

SuperNova said:

Maybe your power input is too high, I recall the nature of the circuit is mA control not volt control and if I recall the daedal circuit likes ~7volts as an input.

SN

Click to expand...

The LM317 can be run with up to 40 volts...no problem. If running it with more than 9 volts then it is advisable to hesatsink it. 7 volts is ideal and is why it is always recommended to use two li-ion batteries or 6 nimh or alkaline batteries...preferably nimh's. As long as the voltage to the regulator is 6 or more volts the current to the diode will not change, so the voltage will not change either. If the voltage going to the regulator is much less than 6 volts then the regulator will begin to drop out.

woop,
I am suggesting the 20X Sony DVD burner as the diode is extremely easy to harvest. Refer to the following thread:

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202158967

don't worry, I know how to use a lm317.

and as for the sony dvd burner, is that the AD7200? they are $42 here in australia, the pinoneer is $36

how did you extract your pioneer open cans from the heatsinks gazoo?

i didn't actually touch the die, or anywhere around it. i used the pliers on the side bits of the front of the diode. it must have bent the whole base of the diode enough to snap the die in 3!

Click to expand...

I can see that happening... the metal the housing is made of is probably somewhat malleable, whereas the die is a piece of silicon hard as.. well.. rock. Being fused together, a slight deformation of the housing will break the die (thinking of that, this could probably happen due to thermal expansion as well).

woop said:

don't worry, I know how to use a lm317.

and as for the sony dvd burner, is that the AD7200? they are $42 here in australia, the pinoneer is $36

how did you extract your pioneer open cans from the heatsinks gazoo?

Click to expand...

The model number for the Sony is AD-7190A. I don't know what the difference would be....if any.

I did it the same way as andy_con posted in his tutorial.. But instead of using a hack saw I used a wire cutter.

http://www.laser-man.co.uk/2006/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=79&Itemid=6

that looks like the way to do it
so why is the sony so easy to harvest?

Just look at this pic goldfingerfif posted:



The open can is on the right, all you have to do is scrape off the glue and pull it out. Sometimes you don't even have to pull it, the diode just falls right out.

Benm said:

i didn't actually touch the die, or anywhere around it. i used the pliers on the side bits of the front of the diode. it must have bent the whole base of the diode enough to snap the die in 3!

Click to expand...

I can see that happening... the metal the housing is made of is probably somewhat malleable, whereas the die is a piece of silicon hard as.. well.. rock. Being fused together, a slight deformation of the housing will break the die (thinking of that, this could probably happen due to thermal expansion as well).

Click to expand...

Actually, lasers aren't silicon, but the same still holds for the III-V materials used with red diodes. Lasers are always made with single crystals, making them very stiff and brittle. Stiff, brittle materials have very low toughness (not to e confused with strength) and break with very little absorbed energy. Lasers are also commonly heterojunctions, meaning that there are different materials joined at interfaces. Two very hard, stiff materials will separate at an interface like that with very little stress at all, which means very small forces since the area of the junction is so small.

You figure out a way to make a silicon laser as powerful as these DVD burning reds, in any color really, and you will be a very rich man.