WTB nubm05t diode

EDIT:
OK I see you said underneath you used a Chinese G2, they will not seat in far enough to focus, that's a defocused print, but the line will be shorter than the 44 if that's at 15 feet, so if the power is up then its a hot 7A75, COOL, but that dam Gball is now a concern, because I'm not having good results running canless.

The Chinese G2's I have do have a short FL but they are made to fit a 5.6mm diode, the rear inset is too deep.




I'm afraid it's basically a defocused 7A75, that is an emitter the size of a 7A75 with a single element lens not quite focused to a sharp line, because the one with the can removed looks like basically a 7A75. However it's emitter may fall between the 7A75 and the 44 as far as divergence and junction size.



However if it puts out more power, then the only obstacle is making it work with the Gball intact. Sure you can remove the Gball and use a conventional lens, and if the divergence is less and power is more then that is what I wanted and would be great only running can-less is now a concern to me as I have lost a couple de-canned diodes way early it seems, but I can't rule out that I did something possibly humidity related??

We need a LPM test and to see where fold back is, then we have to make these work with the G-ball attached.
I also want to make the 07E work with the G-ball intact.

If we can get a good deal on entire blocks I would buy one, just to do a styro deal, I can get them for 599 but if we could get a group buy I will buy one, provded they are in new condition and the Gballs are intact, somewhere south of 500 I would possibly buy 2, but definitely 1 block.

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I would really like to see a nubmo5t and nubm06 diode both running at 3.5a or so at 15-25 feet with the G-ball lens intact as it comes from the factory.

I suppose I will buy one and test it myself.

When will you have some in stock? I have not checked your ebay listing, do you have an 06 with the G-ball on that was non heat removed?

I can get one from China, but if you are doing a heatless removal I would prefer one of those 06 diodes non heat removed with the G-ball intact.

I will have some hopefully by the end of the week. I bought a bank from the rayfoss/newgazer/techhood or whatever other name that they go by with express shipping but they failed to mention that they didn't have them in stock. So it's supposed to ship tomorrow. I'll let you know when it's confirmed. I found a better company and took your advice and ordered some of those NUBM07E's I'm really looking forward to trying those out. Also picked up some NUGM01T diodes really cheap and some 700mw oclaro 638nm just to round it out. Those will be here Wednesday this week. I will have 20 watt LPM soon also.
As far as running these 06's without the g ball I haven't had any go out yet. They seem to be pretty rugged. The most power that I've put to them is from an SXD-V3 at max. So like 5.5 amps. Not using heat to get them out I really do think makes a difference.

I would be interested in a NUGM01T with the Gball intact if the price was good, I have held off on the MM greens because of the outrageous price per watt, and they are less efficient, but no doubt bright looking.
Now Direct Green longevity is another issue, but if you have some at a good deal I would like to mount one with the Gball intact and see what I can get it to do.
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YES non heat extraction sounds very good!

I know the chip makes a lot of heat, but it is dissipated into the diode and it's module quickly, without it they blink out fast, I have tried it with a bench top supply on older diodes and half worn pulls, cooking the block at 450 until the bonded backing melts just can't be good, I could be wrong but it makes me want to use the whole block and the factory KE array, maybe the factory setup repurposed, I keep talking about it, I need to give it a shot.

I see your prices on flebay and that's more for the nugm01t than DTR gets for it, but that's not what I'm interested in anyway.

The 06 with the Gball intact may be tricky to correct, I would still like to see a print at 15 feet of the G-ball's output on the 06 or an 05T

Here is a nubm44 with G2 and then G2 and a 6x cylindrical pair.
The one through the safety glasses lens with the bubble on top is on fire.




If I do a quick 1.5 second burn I get a good print of the spot, this is my 2nd corrected 44 and I set my pairs closer with a longer G2 focus and the spot is better focused as per top to bottom, width/rapid diverging axis could stand a little higher correction but still is a huge improvement.



There's still room for more correction, maybe 7x or 8x would be better, but the nubm06'numb05t may be about perfect with 6x cyl pairs as its natural divergence is a little better, but I just don't know about running without the can.

When you have one that has the G-ball attached I would like to see a 15 foot print, there should be a way with an expander setup or divergence correction then an expander but I would like to see a print.

So you think it would be possible to leave the g-ball in place and use a beam expander or a pair of corrective lenses? It would definitely be worth a try. It would definitely be cool if to use thesearch diodes without removing them from the block.
We're you saying I'm selling diodes on eBay? Because that's definitely not me.

Nichia NUBM05T 450nm 460mm 9mm High Power 3 6W Capable of Over 7W Laser Diode | eBay

Is that not you, am I mixing you up with someone else?

I have a couple lasers for sale but not diodes. I sent a PM to you with prices. I don't really want to get into selling diodes especially on eBay. I feel like it would be a hassle because eBay favors the buyer and I would end up paying for other people's mistakes. I found a really great deal for the NUBM06 though. Message me if your still interested.

That s0my block of 24 is a 3 x 8 stack but what kind of factory optics does it use to get all that light through the phosphor wheel?

I am thinking about repurposing and entire unit.

I'm not sure if they are tearing down whole projectors or just get the diode blocks from a company that does. I'll ask them if they have some pictures of the pojectors these are sourced froms inner working. They probably will. They're the ones who showed how the diodes are being heat exteacted.

I just talked to my supplier and she said that they use a big round lens. They throw them out because for whatever reason it gets damage when they remove it. Probably another way of making it hard to harvest the diodes. She made it seems like they throw away most of the projectors other part. She's going to have them save me some parts like the phosphor wheel and lenses.
She didn't tell me the model of projector they are from. It's understandable they don't want to get cut out of the loop.

WOW a big glass lens to fire 24 diodes through a spinning phosphor wheel in an area likely 15mm wide....that's a dam tough phosphor wheel and I can see why it's spinning.

It may be possible to use the factory guts to make a nice beam bundle, I think I am going to buy a whole projector, there are other's I have my eye on, I do want to test the nubm06 diode first so I do want one with the Gball intact.

I can get a certain projector for under 600 delivered, depending on the price of this one I may go the cheaper way and use 1 block of 06's, I would like to have those factory optics too, I can see some powerful and fun shortcuts here.

Yeah its pretty crazy. Even if each diodes is being run a 2.5 watts that's still 60 watts. If it was posible to get a usable beam using that lens and other optics and ran all the diodes at 6 watts that would make a 140 watt laser.

There are a lot more all laser projectors out now, 4000-5000-8000 lumes.

Look at the two little squirrel cage blower fans in this gutted housing, that's cool, those little fans move a lot of air.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-VPL-FH...239663?hash=item43e1ed626f:g:W7kAAOSwx-9Wuiul

So I haven't fired it up yest to test it but I have some new modules that hold the diode with the Gball lens and leave a good amount of thread for focusing. I have a few different lenses I plan to try and see if it's possible to get a decent beam with. I'll post my results when I'm done. I have I few different diodes with Gballs the one pictured is a NUBM06. But if it's successful I'll try it with a NUBM07E and a NUGM01T. The picture of the lens is a single element lens for 520nm I haven't tried it yet and don't really know anything about it. It looks wider than other lenses and has a purplish AR coating.

I like it, starting wider usually finishes tighter.
We may see a lot of G-ball lensed diodes in the future so this is a good idea.
The trick will be getting a tight starting beam to be able to use beam shaping optics.

I've tried a few lenses with the Gball still on in the module and I have a pretty good idea of what kind of optic will be needed. When you run the diode with just the Gball lens on it it has a pretty well collimated beam. At say 20 feet it's only a few inches wide and looks pretty good. So to be able to make it focusable the second lens would need very little angle, like almost a flat lens. That's what I think but if any knows more about optics maybe they would be able to give some input on the matter.