Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

LPF Donation via Stripe | LPF Donation - Other Methods

Links below open in new window

ArcticMyst Security by Avery

WTB: 3W 808nm c-mount diode

Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
3,220
Points
0
Anybody have any of these they would part with for a reasonable cost? I screwed up the one in my GLP-589 and i'd really like to at least attempt a repair before I give up on it.

I found some on ebay for $60 but I figured i'd ask here first before I waited weeks to get one from china.
 





Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Messages
2,710
Points
0
Can you post a picture of the diode in the pen itself? Or any picture of it next to maybe a 5.6mm diode? The reason I ask is I'm almost 100% positive you're looking for a B-mount diode and not a C-mount, C-mount diodes are actually rather large compared to most diodes.
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
3,220
Points
0
It's possible, though it's certainly NOT a 5.6mm heh. I guess I could run to the office and get it.

*edit*.. Just looked up a B-mount.. that's not it. It's a c-mount. I'll still go grab a pic.
 
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Messages
2,710
Points
0
Wait, this is a CR2 pen...CNI uses b-mount diodes in their 2x AAA high powered green pens, but with the diameter of a CR2 pen I guess you *could* fit a c-mount in.
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
3,220
Points
0
Yeah it's c-mount with the bottom machined off. Brave souls putting a diode in a lathe but I guess i'll have to as well when I replace it.

This one actually still works, and interestingly enough has line optics installed on the diode itself. the problem i'm having with this one is when I dismantled it, one solder joint on the driver broke loose, and when the driver twisted, it twisted the remaining pin, which ripped the - lead off the die and thus far, I haven't found any way to reattach it that I think will last. There isn't really enough material left to solder, plus i'm weary of putting much heat into it.

Anyway. pics as promised. BTW, lasing threshold is about half an amp, what wattage do you think it is? The 3W is just a guess on my part going by its output before I broke it and what I know of the efficiencies of 589.

100_0648.JPG


100_0649.JPG
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
3,220
Points
0
And for anyone who wants to know what the module out of a GLP-589 looks like without going through what I did.. here ya go. :p\

100_0657.JPG


100_0658.JPG


100_0659.JPG


100_0660.JPG
 
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Messages
2,710
Points
0
Yeah it's c-mount with the bottom machined off. Brave souls putting a diode in a lathe but I guess i'll have to as well when I replace it.

This one actually still works, and interestingly enough has line optics installed on the diode itself. the problem i'm having with this one is when I dismantled it, one solder joint on the driver broke loose, and when the driver twisted, it twisted the remaining pin, which ripped the - lead off the die and thus far, I haven't found any way to reattach it that I think will last. There isn't really enough material left to solder, plus i'm weary of putting much heat into it.

Anyway. pics as promised. BTW, lasing threshold is about half an amp, what wattage do you think it is? The 3W is just a guess on my part going by its output before I broke it and what I know of the efficiencies of 589.

100_0648.JPG

Uhm...I could be wrong but that's what I was told a B-mount diode was...it looks like a C-mount with no real bottom half. I could be wrong though, as I said. Can't believe you took it apart :na:
 
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
2,494
Points
0
A b mount has a smaller hole and no chamfer for a screw like that one does. (at least in my experience.) That does look like a cut off C mount.

Now I have to get the nerve up to cut half of my 500mW 635 diode off to fit in an old CNI pen I have :D
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
3,220
Points
0
Uhm...I could be wrong but that's what I was told a B-mount diode was...it looks like a C-mount with no real bottom half. I could be wrong though, as I said. Can't believe you took it apart :na:

Everything google tells me is that B-mount is a flat bar, so yeah. like a C-mount with no hole. this started life as a as a C-mount. Its fairly easy to tell looking at it in person that it was machined after the fact to be flush with the mount that screws into the module.

And yeah. I didn't really want to, but it had issues that weren't warranty-able, and that I decided I couldn't live with. I knew the risks when I started this.

I decided I just couldn't live with battery life that was <15 minutes... this thing ate batteries like there was no tomorrow. And also, it was extremely unstable. I know non-temperature stabilized yellows are never really going to be, but this thing was just a constant flicker, bright dim bright dim, etc. So my main goal with this project was just to transplant the guts into a larger host with better heatsinking, as well as one that would be able to use a real battery.. an 18500 at minimum.
 
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Messages
2,710
Points
0
Hmm, maybe you're right, but seeing as CNI manufacture diode as well, they would have cut the bottom off before putting the die on there.

Edit:^ @ pontiac and qumefox

Edit2: I don't see why CNI didn't design to driver to accept up to 4.2v so people could use the rechargeable CR2s. I don't think you're going to be able to get another C-mount like that. Maybe a custom made mount for a 9mm diode. How many bond wires were there on the diode?

Edit3: Well I was speaking from what I'd seen other CNI pens that needed a large pump use, and having seen a C-mount diode in person, but not a B-mount, I wasn't sure, as I said.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Messages
3,658
Points
113
I have a B-mount and a C-mount diode. I can provide pictures of both together if you would like.

That is definitely a C-mount with the bottom machined off.
I've filed one down like that before.

Also... before you budge the diode's alignment I would try to solder the lead back to whatever you can. This has happened to me before (although not with a >$500 laser :p) and it may work if you superglue a solder pad cut from another PCB onto where the - pad used to be and then solder it all together with the pin.

Edit: I'm going to upload some pictures of the B-mount and C-mount diodes.
Oh yeah, and thanks for the pictures of the module. I like to take apart CNI's lasers but I haven't had the need to break into my GLP 589 yet.

Edit again: BTW, did you by chance measure the current draw from the batteries of your GLP (while it was intact)? Mine eats through RCR2s in about 10 minutes. I plan on transplanting the module, too!
What was the power rating on yours? Mine is a "5mW." It likes to sit between 9-12mW lately with peaks at 13mW. It is pretty unstable during warm up but it is only noticeable because with this wavelength (not sure why) every jump or drop of 1mW is "visible." I mean, 10mW is noticeably brighter than 9mW, which is not something I notice with any other wavelength. Just me?
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
2,494
Points
0
I have a 2W C mount, but I was saving it for a set of 473 crystals I have lying around. I guess I could be convinced to part with it, assuming you would be willing to settle with 2W...
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
3,220
Points
0
I have a B-mount and a C-mount diode. I can provide pictures of both together if you would like.

That is definitely a C-mount with the bottom machined off.
I've filed one down like that before.

Also... before you budge the diode's alignment I would try to solder the lead back to whatever you can. This has happened to me before (although not with a >$500 laser :p) and it may work if you superglue a solder pad cut from another PCB onto where the - pad used to be and then solder it all together with the pin.

Yeah I had thought about epoxying the tab in place. It will work as is if I can get some kind of solid contact that won't come loose in the future.

Though this was just a $300 laser, not a $500 one. :na: but like I said.. I knew the risks going in to this project, and while it sucks a little slip is all it takes to screw things up, I can't really feel bad about it. Crap happens. About all I can do is try to fix it and go on.

I have a 2W C mount, but I was saving it for a set of 473 crystals I have lying around. I guess I could be convinced to part with it, assuming you would be willing to settle with 2W...

Thanks, but like I said before earlier, I found some on ebay.. No point in me taking one from someone else that has a use already. I was mainly asking in case someone had a stash that they didn't have plans for. I'll probably attempt the epoxy route tomorrow and see how that goes before I get up on this diode entirely.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Messages
3,658
Points
113
Please check my edit in the post above. ;)

Next time you decide to dismantle a CNI GLP, desolder the driver first and use a spanner to remove the diode. Shoulda asked me first! I've done this with a GLP 532 before I was familiar with their modules - I did manage to fix it though.

Edit: Oh yeah, and I think the diode is 1.2W, not 3W. Current draw is too low for a 3W diode.
If you MUST replace the diode I have an 808nm 2W C-mount with FAC. Not sure what pump or cavity the 589nm DPSS uses.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
3,220
Points
0
The damage was done getting the rear housing off. There wasn't a way to desolder it while it was still together.

Current too low? This thing was drawing almost 3A at 3V input to the driver. Like I said it ate batteries like crazy.
 
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Messages
3,658
Points
113
The damage was done getting the rear housing off. There wasn't a way to desolder it while it was still together.

Current too low? This thing was drawing almost 3A at 3V input to the driver. Like I said it ate batteries like crazy.

No way.
:eek:
Mine draws 1.28-1.3A. What was the power rating of yours?
 




Top