RGV Adjustable Sled Mount Heat Sinks - Feeler

sightfx said:

Thanks for the advice you two.



Jay,

Did you try turn the diode modules till you get the least side reflection when you installed them. I think the cube is polarized. I have been playing with the rotation and it seems to make a difference visualy...I can also see a dot form in the cube when rotating the module that grows and srinks as I turn.


Thanks again,

Ryan

Click to expand...

Ryan, you are correct... I must not have turned my blu-ray to the best position on my first 7 color build. Because in testing my second sled, I can turn the blu-ray and get much less of a loss in power.

Starting out at 136mW's, and coming out at 105mW's through the splitter cube and off of the PHR turning mirror.

My next one will be much better, especially using your awesome adjustable mounts!
Jay

I almost have the Prototype for Version 3 done. Version 2 is just a scaled down Version one and I am scrapping that all together because they are two hard to make. If someone wants the large heat sinked version I will make them a bit smaller but still over 1" I will also leave the size of the sled body mounts the same so they act as a stand. These are designed for those who need the extra heat sink for longer on times. (now I set myself up to test how long I can keep one on) Not with my 8X though

anyway I will send pixs of the new design when I get to Canada.


Thanks,

Ryan

Can't wait! I'm sure I will be going for a full set of verison 3...

Could I make something similar? Yes, but why? That's a lot of work! And I think your price is very reasonable. It is a great design. Very good thinking that you made the diodes removable for replacement.

Definitely will need to be able to rotate for best power as well. So I am hoping for the AixiZ module/set screw design for my set...
Jay

jayrob said:

Can't wait! I'm sure I will be going for a full set of verison 3...

Could I make something similar? Yes, but why? That's a lot of work! And I think your price is very reasonable. It is a great design. Very good thinking that you made the diodes removable for replacement.

Definitely will need to be able to rotate for best power as well. So I am hoping for the AixiZ module/set screw design for my set...
Jay

Click to expand...

ditto. sounds awesome. just ordered an O-like 30mW module for the green and will be building my own red and bluray modules

-Kendall

jayrob said:

Ryan, you are correct... I must not have turned my blu-ray to the best position on my first 7 color build. Because in testing my second sled, I can turn the blu-ray and get much less of a loss in power.

Starting out at 136mW's, and coming out at 98mW's through the splitter cube and off of the PHR turning mirror.

My next one will be much better, especially using your awesome adjustable mounts!
Jay

Click to expand...

Jay,

I have a question about the rotation of your diodes. Can you tell me the position the diode is in for the "Sweet Spot" you found. For instance with the Sled flat is the "V" notches at 6 and 12 oclock and the square at 9 or 3 for Blu-Ray? How about Red? I would like to see if the positions are consistant to help Rog with instructions as well as to see if the press fit heat sinks will be usable.

Thanks,

Ryan

sk8er4514 said:

jayrob said:

Can't wait! I'm sure I will be going for a full set of verison 3...

Could I make something similar? Yes, but why? That's a lot of work! And I think your price is very reasonable. It is a great design. Very good thinking that you made the diodes removable for replacement.

Definitely will need to be able to rotate for best power as well. So I am hoping for the AixiZ module/set screw design for my set...
Jay

Click to expand...

ditto. sounds awesome. just ordered an O-like 30mW module for the green and will be building my own red and bluray modules

-Kendall

Click to expand...

Version 3 does take Aixiz modules so playing with the rotation works will be posable. I would still like to see if the best rotation can be "locked in" to make it easy for people (like me) who do not have a meter to test for the best. I am banking that the diodes all have the same polarity depending on the knotches. I am thinking they must. How do they build the sleds? If it isn't consistant they would have to use a meter every time and rotate... I doubt they do that but maybe.


Anyway Version 3 will be easier to build. I don't mind if anyone builds there own. This is a hobby. I only ask that people don't take them, Build there own from the same designs and sell them. At lease improve something. Of course I would like to re-coop some money to suport my own laser hobby costs but ultimatly it is about helping people be succesful with there projects. You can't stop some people from being shady though...

Thanks,

Ryan

Ok... I don't have my diodes set up for my second build yet, but I did some testing using a PHR laser, and an open can build as well...



I wouldn't think the lens matters as much, but the PHR has a 405-G-1 glass lens, and the open can red has an AR coated acrylic.

After marking the position of the laser for best power through the sled optics, I took the lens out and noted the orientation of the diode.

So hopefully it is always the same. But I guess this is yet to be discovered...
Jay

Jay,

Was that the orientation of the square notch on the back of the diode?


If so than it is the same orientation that I have mine. Actualy it is exacly oposite. I have square notch at 9 oclock which would be the same polarity. whether they are both vertical or horizontal. Oposite orientations will be the same. My red is on the same 9 oclock looks like yours is close to 3 again.

Ryan

Here are some picks of what I worked on this weekend and today.



The one on the left is the original size. the ones on the right are all 1" in dia and about3/4" tall depending on your lense and adjustments.

I like these but they were so hard to make with the equipment I have. I am thinking of asking misterwilling what he can make them for. with his cnc mill and lath they should be easier to reproduce.


Here is the back of the threaded nipple mounts. I added a thin nut I made to the back side of two because I played with them too much and stripped the threads I put on the sled. I'm thinking it will be best to have them on each for the kit.



Here it is all together with the large heat sinks. It took me about only about 5 min to adjust them once they were all mounted. I will put a video up to show how easy it is.


Cheers,

Ryan

Incredible, great work Sightfx.

Thanks,

I know I promised pictures of version 3 but I am waiting on a tap so I can put it all together.


Cheers,

Ryan

sightfx said:

Jay,

Was that the orientation of the square notch on the back of the diode?

If so than it is the same orientation that I have mine. Actualy it is exacly oposite. I have square notch at 9 oclock which would be the same polarity. whether they are both vertical or horizontal. Oposite orientations will be the same. My red is on the same 9 oclock looks like yours is close to 3 again.

Ryan

Click to expand...

Yes, the square notch is in line with the largest brass part of the module case. (I updated my picture above)

Ryan, those custom mounts really look nice! I can't wait for mine. I am ready as soon as you are!
Jay

omg, cant WAIT for beam shots.

hell, if you AND jayrob are workin on this beast together.... it'l be done in no time at all i bet.

if at all possible, you should definately take a beam shot with the top part of the sled OPEN so we can see all the beams combining and whatnot. i think thats the only thing i didnt get to see on jayrobs pocket build, and it interests the hell out of me!

i may very well invest in one of these.

now i just want to verify, this is a PHR sled correct? or are you still using the PS3 sled?

vERY nICE

I like it. Probably the easiest way to adjust the optics I have seen.
I am working on my own version which will be more complex and not practical to sell to anyone.
I do not like using that polazrized cube, too much power loss. I am building my own setup from scratch using dichro's ordered from laser wave. When I get mine done it should be smaller then this setup with only 10-15% loss through the optics. Which would be a first for a pocket RGV laser as so far I have only seen ones using the PHR cube.
With my 8x Blu-ray @500mW , LPC at 300+mW and green at 100mW I should be able to get anywhere from 600-700mW of output, We shall see what melts with that.

Darkarmyofone said:

omg, cant WAIT for beam shots.

hell, if you AND jayrob are workin on this beast together.... it'l be done in no time at all i bet.

if at all possible, you should definately take a beam shot with the top part of the sled OPEN so we can see all the beams combining and whatnot. i think thats the only thing i didnt get to see on jayrobs pocket build, and it interests the hell out of me!

i may very well invest in one of these.

now i just want to verify, this is a PHR sled correct? or are you still using the PS3 sled?

Click to expand...

Everything PHR for the easiest. As MISTERWILLING has mentioned, and Ramsey_innovations as well, there are better optics that can be used. But for the quick and easy set up, a PHR is not bad at all... (the turning mirror in the PHR is much better than the PS3 turning mirror)



My next one will be using the PHR optics and I am anticipating at least 350mW's, maybe 400mW's for the white beam using a GGW 6X at a fairly conservative 180mA's and my 405-G-1 glass lens, with all PHR optics.

I get about a 20% loss through the PHR optics, so this will give me about 180 to 190mW's of blu-ray after optics...
Jay

Yeah I am still using the PHR turning mirror, The numbers on its power loss were acceptable for me, but I was not happy with the loss from the cube. Although you have updated your numbers for the power loss through cube because your Blu-ray diode was not rotated to optimal postition.
I almost wouldn't have ordered the dichro from laser wave if I knew that it was that efficient but It's okay. They have a special dichro made just from blu-ray lasers with 98% transmission, so I will only really lose a tiny bit of power from the PHR turning mirror. Here is the dichro i purchased http://www.stanwax.plus.com/lw/dichro.html , its the only listed as 405 Bluray Dichro. Someone can look at that to make sure I ordered the right part.
I agree SlightFX has the best solution for the normal DIY person but since have all these CNC machines and lathes to use I might as well build a one of a kind high powered version (until someone comes up with something else). I am also machining my heatsink more flat than round and attaching them to a thin aluminum plate for more heatsinking. This way I can still get my version into my pocket. But in doing that I have to use a different system of set screws to align the lasers.