FS:  Matched Sets --SOLD--

50Freestyle said:

When you get your parts and begin building, you can find a pinout diagram for which is the positive and which is the negative pins.  However, as soon as you look at the back of your diode you will be able to tell which is the case pin.  The positive and negative pins have a small black ring where the pin enters the case.  This is electrical insulation.  The third pin (the case pin) is obviously metal to metal (no black ring).

Peace,
dave

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Oh yea, I knew there was a third pin but I never knew what it was called. Now I fianlly get it! So it basically looks like this:
   
     Diode__   --- Between negative pin and case pin= connection
          _ l__l_
   (-)  l----l    l (+)
      _l\         /_______Soldered connections / or \
   _l   _\___/_
   l     l *     * |   Driver
   l     l           l
   l     l______l      
   l____l    l__________ connected to contact and battery source
 Blk wire         Wht  wire  
(Connected
 to (-) pin)      

Hopefully you can read my diagram, if not I can explain it. So the diode is the very top square and off of that there are three pins, the posetive (+), the negative (-), and the case pin (not labled). A connection is made with solder or something between the negative and case pin labled with ----. The posetive and negative ends of the driver are soldered to the negative (-) and posetive (+) pins on the diode labled by a / or \. The black wire from the diode is also soldered to the negative pin on the diode. The white wire is soldered to any kind of metal contact which connects to the posetive end of the battery source.

I see how it all falls into place now. The negative charge from the battery runs up the host and into the diodes case pin which is connected to the  negative pin which also has the drivers black wire connected to it so the charge flows into the driver. The posetive and negative charges are now both in the driver which then lead to the diode and make it light.

I see how everything works this way now. Thanks so much you've been a great teacher! If all of this sounds right then I am very happy!

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The white wire from the input side of the driver connects to the + contact and battery source. If the case pin on the diode is connected to the negative pin, you don't even need to connect the - black wire on the input side to the negative pin.

Diode __ --- Between negative pin and case pin= connection
_ l__l_
(-) l----l l (+)
\ /_______Soldered connections / or \
_\___/_
l * * | Driver
l l
l______l
| l__________ connected to contact and battery source
Neg. Terminal Wht wire
(Don't need
to connect because
neg. and case pin
on the diode are
connected)




By the way, the driver has 2 terminals on each side
The - terminal on the output side goes to the negative pin (make sure case and neg. pins are connected on the actual diode.) The + terminal on the output side goes to the + pin on the diode. The - terminal on the input side doesn't connect anywhere, because you have already made a continuos connection (from connecting the case and neg. pin). The + terminal connnects to the + terminal in the flashlight (which is the spring).

This host is very hard for your first build (i have done an alike one, and it wasn't my first), and i don't recomend it for beginners. But, it's your call.

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50Freestyle said:

The white wire from the input side of the driver connects to the + contact and battery source. If the case pin on the diode is connected to the negative pin, you don't even need to connect the - black wire on the input side to the negative pin.  

Diode  __  --- Between negative pin and case pin= connection
   _ l__l_
 (-)  l----l    l (+)
  \   /_______Soldered connections / or \
  _\___/_
  l *     * |   Driver
  l     l
  l______l  
   |     l__________ connected to contact and battery source
    Neg. Terminal     Wht  wire    
    (Don't need  
    to connect because
    neg. and case pin
    on the diode are  
    connected)  




By the way, the driver has 2 terminals on each side  
The - terminal on the output side goes to the negative pin (make sure case and neg. pins are connected on the actual diode.) The + terminal on the output side goes to the + pin on the diode. The - terminal on the input side doesn't connect anywhere, because you have already made a continuos connection (from connecting the case and neg. pin). The + terminal connnects to the + terminal in the flashlight (which is the spring).  

This host is very hard for your first build (i have done an alike one, and it wasn't my first), and i don't recomend it for beginners. But, it's your call.

Back to top    

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Yea I know this host will probably take me some time but now that I know exactly what to do it shouldn't  be super hard. That helps to know that I don't need to connect the black (-) wire to the diode because that means that I don't have to solder alot and risk overheating the diode. If you don't mind me asking, what did you guys use to connect the Case pin and the Negative pin?

I know what to do now and it all really doesn't seem super hard. If I have problems connecting the case pin a negative pin or have conduction issues I should be able to just hook the Black (-) wire up to the host or heatsink directly.

Thanks so much,

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Just use a teeny drop of solder to connect the two pins

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50Freestyle said:

Just use a teeny drop of solder to connect the two pins

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Ok, Thanks  

Hey Spyderz20x6, I know how you said this was a hard host for you to use due to the mods but what exactly made it tuff?

Dave, would you consider this host hard for me to use seeing this will be my first DIY?

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50Freestyle said:

Ok, Thanks
Hey Spyderz20x6, I know how you said this was a hard host for you to use due to the mods but what exactly made it tuff?
Dave, would you consider this host hard for me to use seeing this will be my first DIY?

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This host will require more custom work on it than one of the better known / more often built ones.   How patient and creative are you?  Are you willing to go back and do it differently if half way through you realize that what you are doing won't work the way you want to?  Do you have the tools to change the shape of solid metal?  Do you know how to use them?

I always recommend that one's first laser build be one of the well known MXDL types.  There are tutorials, and many have built them so you have help.  The parts are available and not really expensive.  After you are successful with a couple of builds, THEN start getting creative and make one that is at least rare if not unique.  Trust me.  After you are successful at building one, you WILL build another.  Make your first experience a pleasant one.  Build one of the well known hosts.

Peace,
dave

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50Freestyle said:

Alright then, I guess its better to be safe than sorry
What would you reccomend, the AAA 5W MXDL or the CR123A 5w MXDL (Both of the ones that can fit jay's heatsink)?

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Are you going to build a red or a blu-ray?  Are you going to use the Rkcstr (about $10) or spring for the flexdrive (about $24)?  Do want it to feel "massive" in your hand?

I know . . . more questions  

Peace,
dave

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50Freestyle said:

I really don't mind questions, i'm just happy to get a reply and the more questions you ask the more help I get

I'm still planning on it to be a Blu-Ray build and I would like to use an rkcstr driver, it is cheaper and you really don't need to modify the driver or solder anything onto it, it's ready right out of the package (Good for a beginner). The only doubt in my mind about the rkcstr driver is that someone told me that you had to not only heatsink the module but the rkcstr driver too (Not for sured how to do that). I don't want it to feel super huge in my hand but I like it to have a little weight to it, makes for better balance (Either host will work fine for this).

Thanks,

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Here's my recommendation then.

Go with the #4171MXDL host ( http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4171 ) but DO use 3.6 volt rechargeable batteries in it.

Get a Jayrob heat sink for it ( http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202452073 )

Set your Rkcstr driver for about 125mA (or get him to make you a fixed output driver at about 125mA)

Use an Aixiz module with an acrylic lens (and cut the back out of it).


With this set-up the only real "modification" you will have to do is to open the LED holder in the middle a bit. You can easily do that with simply a file. This will give you a laser that will burn and that you can see the beam of. It will also last a good long time and handle fairly long burns.

As you get the parts and begin the build, myself and others here will help you along the way.

Peace,
dave

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50Freestyle said:

Sounds great, there is one other alternative I would like your input on. I was searching through the forums and I found another MXDL that Jayrob builds heatsinks for http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1217045236/0. This host looks really easy to use and it's cheaper. I could pump it up with two 10440 batteries and get a longer battery life. I like the side clicky too. Would you consider this host an easier build? Would you reccomend it over the other MXDL? Sorry again for throwing more questions at you (Your probably annoyed by now).

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I teach.  Questions are my life  

The host that you linked to will also work very well.  Between the two, the choice is one of personal preference.  If you like the "look" of it more or if you like the side clicky more, go for it.  10440's are a little harder to find, but if you get a backup set, you will never be without your laser anyway.

Peace,
dave

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50Freestyle said:

The CR123A MXDL does look nicer but the AAA MXDL has a side clicky. I can get up to 7.5V with the CR123A batteries in the CR123A MXDL but I can get up to 12.6V (Not that I would ever try ) with the AAA MXDL.
I think I will go with the AAA MXDL because it can cut down on the prices and I can get a longer battery life with it. 10440's aren't hard to find if you use DX ;D and in Jayrob's tutorial he mentioned that the battery carrier had little contacts on the posetive side of the battery hookup which means that it would work well for 10440's because the have no little "nub" on their posetive end! I'm not for sure how to hook the module up to the host though, never seen any tutorials or anything with hosts that have side clickys. Oh, I forgot to ask, is 125mA considered a "Safe" current nowadays?
Thanks,

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The new style Rkcstr has an upper limit of 12V (the old one could take up to 16V).  Three "fully charged" 10440's would give you well over 12V.   If you go with three 10440's you take a chance of blowing the driver.  10440's are rated at 500mAh.  ICR123's are rated at 750mAh.  You'll get longer battery life out of the two rechargeable 123's than you will out of two rechargeable 10440's.  The little "contacts" you are referring to are small plastic protrusions that must be broken off in order to allow the battery to get close enough.  I would still use small rare earth magnets in it to "extend" the positive contact.  When you cut the LED off you will have the positive and negative pads exposed.  You simply solder the leads from the driver onto the correct pad.  I consider 125mA VERY safe.  I run my personal blu-ray at 190mA  

Peace,
dave

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50Freestyle said:

I am changing my host again to the CR123A MXDL . . . I'm kind of curious on why I need to widen the opening where the LED was? Is it so the AxiZ module can fit through?
All of my knowledge on these types of lasers is making the modules itself and i'm pretty bad on knowing how to hook the module up to the host so instead of asking you how I will ask if the idea in my head is right (Better to think than get the answer handed to me). Its pretty basic so thats why I am worried if I am right or not because it soinds too easy, do I just hook the two wires from the driver up to the old circuit board where the LED was?

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