FS: 1.8-2W 445nm Maglite 2C Laser!

saki302 · Mar 29, 2011

twhite828 said:
Maybe you can work something out with Sparkles.

:crackup:

It's not April 1 yet!!

-Dave

Toke · Mar 29, 2011

Bradpr,
Nice work, after this "kit" you can build more lasers of your own.

Frank C · Mar 30, 2011

Well, it looks like I too am gonna be taking one of these apart. FP, I'm gonna need to buy some wire off of you lol.

Btw, what do you use to remove thermal adhesive?

Oh, and another quick question. When I hold down the momentary switch to turn the laser on, it does stay on perfectly fine with no problems, but as soon as I push the switch all the way in, so that it is able to stay on without holding the switch (constant on), it flashes off for about 1 second and then turns back on, and then it seems to stay on fine. Does anyone else's do that? I haven't seen that happen before, maybe it's normal, but I just thought I'd ask

Thanks

jayrob · Mar 30, 2011

Frank C said:
Well, it looks like I too am gonna be taking one of these apart. FP, I'm gonna need to buy some wire off of you lol.

Btw, what do you use to remove thermal adhesive?

Oh, and another quick question. When I hold down the momentary switch to turn the laser on, it does stay on perfectly fine with no problems, but as soon as I push the switch all the way in, so that it is able to stay on without holding the switch (constant on), it flashes off for about 1 second and then turns back on, and then it seems to stay on fine. Does anyone else's do that? I haven't seen that happen before, maybe it's normal, but I just thought I'd ask

Thanks

I've seen that in a C Mag... It's the switch design. That's why I said the D Mag has a much more heavy duty switch. I've taken both of the switches completely apart, and there is a huge difference in them...

Toke · Mar 30, 2011

Toke said:
This reminds me of a story from this page.
Acts of Gord: Love the Gord, Fear the Gord
It involves a defective game console brought in for repair, a modding chip to allow copied games, and what must have been a monkey, being let loose inside the machine with a soldering iron.

I had no idea that anyone could be this amateurish and still try to sell their stuff to others. Guess he has no pride in his work.

Here it is, bottom of the page.
Acts of Gord - The Book of Annoyances
And it was a retarded monkey.

jakeGT · Mar 30, 2011

twhite828 said:
Good to hear you got it taken care of, though I'm sorry you had to pay so much for what was effectively a kit. Maybe you can work something out with Sparkles.

+1

-Trevor

Yeah, like maybe you can work your foot in his ass brad

Coherent Light · Mar 30, 2011

Glad You said that Matt, because I'll be needing the 2nd run of heat sinks soon. I'll PM You when I am ready..

Frank C · Mar 30, 2011

So, I'm attempting to take my "sparkler" apart right now. Luckily the heat sink isn't cemented in, but I'm having a heck of a time trying to get this switch loose so that I can take the head off without breaking any wires. I stuck a 5/64 hex key in the middle of the switch to try and loosen the set screw, but it doesn't feel like it wants to grab anything. Almost feels like it's stripped :banghead:

Suggestions?

Toke · Mar 30, 2011

I am not familiar with Mag switches.

Can you see a set screw?
If so you could sacrifice a slightly larger allen key or cheap screwdriver by grinding it only slightly oversized and then hammering it into the set screw.

Frank C · Mar 31, 2011

If I look into the back of the battery holding tube toward the switch, I believe I can see the set screw contacting the inner part of tube. There is a gap in the switch area on the inside of the tube that I can see through a little bit. I can't really fit a larger hex key into the top of the set screw though, because there is a plastic collar that barely lets the proper sized key fit through.

Would a dab of super glue on the end of the hex key be an ok last resort? I can't really think of much else to do.

mikzip · Mar 31, 2011

qumefox said:
I'm the opposite. I DO enjoy spending time in front of the lathe. It's much more enjoyable than sitting in front of a computer, which is how most of my other non-sleeping time is spent.. due to a combination of work, and having no life. Plus I enjoy actually making something tangible that I can hold in my hand at the end of it as well.

On the other hand, I do agree that blatantly copying someone elses work should be frowned upon. Business may be business, but there are usually different ways of doing things other than direct copies.. even if it's just adding more flair. This isn't china here. We don't have hundreds of people with lathes competing to do the same thing. Even using the same host, there are always options. FP's tank007's and my version i'm about to start selling are good examples. Same host (for the most part, mine are clones of the tank007 flashlight, but are the same physically) but two entirely different styles to accomplish the same thing.

I really like those hosts in the last picture i am just amazed :gj:

jayrob · Mar 31, 2011

Frank C said:
If I look into the back of the battery holding tube toward the switch, I believe I can see the set screw contacting the inner part of tube. There is a gap in the switch area on the inside of the tube that I can see through a little bit. I can't really fit a larger hex key into the top of the set screw though, because there is a plastic collar that barely lets the proper sized key fit through.

Would a dab of super glue on the end of the hex key be an ok last resort? I can't really think of much else to do.

There are differences in the tool needed depending on when the light was made. (serial number) See here:
http://www.maglite.com/pdf/CustServ/CD_switch_repair_8_0411222004324362.pdf

Bradpr · Mar 31, 2011

I wasn't able to get the switch out with of my hex wrenches. I followed the maglite instruction sheet Jayrob posted above, but wasn't sure what size The #22 hex is. I assumed it was a very very small one,and none of mine seemed to want to grab and turn anything in the switch.

That's very interesting that your heatsink wasn't cemented. I really can't see why mine was. The heatsink body and lip fit perfectly in the head once I ground all the epoxy out of it.

I did notice a screw hole on the side of the heatsink. Why is that here?

Frank C said:
If I look into the back of the battery holding tube toward the switch, I believe I can see the set screw contacting the inner part of tube. There is a gap in the switch area on the inside of the tube that I can see through a little bit. I can't really fit a larger hex key into the top of the set screw though, because there is a plastic collar that barely lets the proper sized key fit through.

Would a dab of super glue on the end of the hex key be an ok last resort? I can't really think of much else to do.

Coherent Light · Mar 31, 2011

That would probably be the diode module set screw.

Flaminpyro · Mar 31, 2011

I would be most happy to help you, PM sent

Bradpr said:
I don't think so, because he shipped mine a week ago, like a day before the sh*t hit the fan. But the heatsink is definitely not just sitting in the head. I think I'm going to have to get the Aixiz, diode, and driver out and then just bang the heatsink until it comes out. My last hope is that FP has some advice after his disassembly. From his pics it looks like there may have been a drop of some type of cement on the heatsink. I can confirm that the diode wires are twist jobs. I'd dispute this with paypal if I thought I had a legitimate claim...

daguin · Mar 31, 2011

Step away from the keyboards, Guys.

Go have a beer (or a soda).

Peace,
dave

FS: 1.8-2W 445nm Maglite 2C Laser!

saki302

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