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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.6mm

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Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.6mm

'thinking of putting my lathe to work. Who if anyone would be interested in these for $40 USD + shp with a stainless locking focus ring (not yet pictured.)

labbie1.JPG


those are #2-56 threaded holes (6 per side)

labbie2.JPG
labbie3.JPG


The idea is to cut the threads off of the front of an aixiz module and press it in the front of this heatsink allowing the use of standard lens holder barrels.

labbie4.JPG


labbie5.JPG


Best,
-Phil
 





daguin

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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

How does one get to the back of the diode to solder wires or a driver to it?

How would one go about replacing a dead diode in it?

OR

How does one get the diode close enough to the lens?

Peace,
dave
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

How does one get to the back of the diode to solder wires or a driver to it?
Hi Dave,
well you could drill and slit a dowel to press them both in at once but this is really intended for just wires (regulator in the box that this would mount to) and the way to do that is to presolder it/them and use a hollow dowel with a perpendicular hole to keep the wire out of the way while you press.
How would one go about replacing a dead diode in it?
Just knock it out from the front (remember that the threaded ring cut from the Aixiz is open straight through.
How does one get the diode close enough to the lens?
The lens actually gets 1/32" closer than in the standard Aixiz with the diode pressed "past flush" (all the way in)
-Phil
 
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jeffd

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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

I think it looks great, but should be less long so you can access the diode easier
 

daguin

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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

Hi Dave,
well you could drill and slit a dowel to press them both in at once but this is really intended for just wires (regulator in the box that this would mount to) and the way to do that is to presolder it/them and use a hollow dowel with a perpendicular hole to keep the wire out of the way while you press.
Just knock it out from the front (remember that the threaded ring cut from the Aixiz is open straight through.
-Phil

Soldering wires to a diode NOT in a heat sink is pretty risky for people who cannot solder with just a touch. I think that will limit your market.

Also, unless you are providing that "tool" to press the diode, you will turn yet other people away. Most enthusiasts don't have the tooling and/or knowledge to fabricate it themselves.

Peace,
dave
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

I think it looks great, but should be less long so you can access the diode easier
Yea but like I should've said this is designed for optimum continuous power in the lab. Perhaps a second version for the front of a Commander Pike Startrek Phaser? Hey did you ever get back to your sweetie? I remember a while back that you were saving up for a trip or something.
 

jeffd

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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

Making the heatsink wider with deeper fins rather than being longer, will be just as effective because maximizing surface area allows the heat to transfer to the air better. Like daquin said much more people will be interested if the diode is accessible with out any special tools.

Yep, I had to sell all of my laser collection to pay for plane flights, but I got to see her :) Thanks for asking.

Luckily I have some extra cash now, so I can do a phr and loc build!
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

Soldering wires to a diode NOT in a heat sink is pretty risky for people who cannot solder with just a touch. I think that will limit your market.
I wouldn't discourage newbs from trying. That's how you get good.
Also, unless you are providing that "tool" to press the diode, you will turn yet other people away. Most enthusiasts don't have the tooling and/or knowledge to fabricate it themselves.
Fair enough. So it shall be. $15 US for wire only hardened O-1 tool steel dowel and $35 US for one with a slit for the regulator.
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

Making the heatsink wider with deeper fins rather than being longer, will be just as effective because maximizing surface area allows the heat to transfer to the air better. Like daquin said much more people will be interested if the diode is accessible with out any special tools.

Yep, I had to sell all of my laser collection to pay for plane flights, but I got to see her :) Thanks for asking.

Luckily I have some extra cash now, so I can do a phr and loc build!

Glad to hear it. I hate it when I have to be away from my YL. I actually designed this for a specific LOC application. I test DKDP crystals that we grow inhouse. Perhaps we do need a second version.
 

daguin

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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

I wouldn't discourage newbs from trying. That's how you get good.

Fair enough. So it shall be. $15 US for wire only hardened O-1 tool steel dowel and $35 US for one with a slit for the regulator.

That is NOT how you get good. That is how you blow diodes, become frustrated, and go into RC helicopters.

Your marketing strategy is a bit backward. You have just limited your market even more by increasing the price. Have you already made these heat sinks? It appears that rather than designing a heat sink that your market can and will use, you are trying to find a way to sell one that is not designed to be successfully utilized by your market.

Did you want to sell heat sinks or show off your design?

Peace,
dave
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

From a n00bs view I'd pass. Too expensive, need to buy extra tools, and difficult to assemble. Not very DIY friendly for the average member. ~$70 for a small copper heat sink is no deal. I bought an aluminum one with a set screw for $10 and it works fine. I dont think copper is worth $60 more.

I do like the look though.
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

with all due respect...its not much of a labbie...looks like it could roll off the table.
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

That would look really good, if you slapped a barrel on it. For a cr123 or even a 18650 cell.
It would make one slick host.
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

It definitely should be flat on the bottom.. other than that I like it.
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

That is NOT how you get good. That is how you blow diodes, become frustrated, and go into RC helicopters.

Your marketing strategy is a bit backward. You have just limited your market even more by increasing the price. Have you already made these heat sinks? It appears that rather than designing a heat sink that your market can and will use, you are trying to find a way to sell one that is not designed to be successfully utilized by your market.

Did you want to sell heat sinks or show off your design?

Peace,
dave

You got me there Dave. I just built the one for now to satisfy a particular -space constrained- application. I'll rework the design and maybe offer these -because I think they're cool- as preassembled. Someone else might need a badassed small diameter heatsink.

-Phil
 
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Re: Feeler: 10 FIN LABBIE HEATSINK All copper 7/8" dia. x 1" long for direct press 5.

From a n00bs view I'd pass. Too expensive, need to buy extra tools, and difficult to assemble. Not very DIY friendly for the average member. ~$70 for a small copper heat sink is no deal. I bought an aluminum one with a set screw for $10 and it works fine. I dont think copper is worth $60 more.

I do like the look though.

Thanks. I don't think I was suggesting buying the tool to make just one. But I guess a lot of people do build just one. Does the setscrew on your Al one hold the diode or a module?

-Phil
 
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