Hi,
A few people requested to see the insides if my 1xCR123A PHR-803T build. So here you go.
Start with one Deal Extreme MTE 6watt 2-mode 1xCR123A Cree flashlight, or something similar. Unscrew the bezel, remove the glass, and reflector. Unscrew and remove the Cree star from the aluminum base it's screwed into. Take the red wire that used to attach to the emitter and solder it to the + input of the drlava flexdrive. Use one of the screws that used to hold the emitter to the aluminum base. Wrap a black wire around that screw, and screw it down back into the aluminum base. Solder that black wire to the - input of the drlava flexdrive. The rest is straightforward: + leg of PHR-803T diode to + side of flexdrive output, - leg of diode to - side of flexdrive output.
I wrapped some electrical tape around the flexdrive after getting it all set, to prevent any shorting. I also put some hot glue around the + and - wires coming from the light so they didn't break off while getting everything arranged inside the head.
Pic one: You can see the red and black wire from the light. The red wire came with the light, used to be attached to the emitter. The black wire is what I screwed into the aluminum baseplate on the light using the same screw and screw-hole that the emitter used.
Pic two: I made a thin plastic spacer to go between the Aixis module and the flexdrive. The plan was to use this as a place for my aluminum heatsinking bars to sit without falling too far down below the head.
Pic three and four: I don't have access to a lathe. So, I improvised my heat sink and I'm fairly proud of the results. I used a 1/4" thick pure aluminum bar (available at most hardware stores). I cut it into 1/2" length nuggets and filed each one down to fit very snugly between the Aixis module and the body of the flashlight. The tighter the fit, the better heat is conducted away. I think this is a good solution for people out there that don't have other means to make a heat sink.
Pic five: All closed up and looking pretty. I made an aluminum disk from a 1/16" thick aluminum sheet (also available at your hardware store). I used the glass from the flashlight as a template and then drilled out the middle. I removed the gasket from the flashlight bezel to aid in the conduction of heat from the aluminum bars, through the disk, into the bezel. It all fits nice and tight, but not so tight that anything is in danger of bending or breaking.
A few people requested to see the insides if my 1xCR123A PHR-803T build. So here you go.
Start with one Deal Extreme MTE 6watt 2-mode 1xCR123A Cree flashlight, or something similar. Unscrew the bezel, remove the glass, and reflector. Unscrew and remove the Cree star from the aluminum base it's screwed into. Take the red wire that used to attach to the emitter and solder it to the + input of the drlava flexdrive. Use one of the screws that used to hold the emitter to the aluminum base. Wrap a black wire around that screw, and screw it down back into the aluminum base. Solder that black wire to the - input of the drlava flexdrive. The rest is straightforward: + leg of PHR-803T diode to + side of flexdrive output, - leg of diode to - side of flexdrive output.
I wrapped some electrical tape around the flexdrive after getting it all set, to prevent any shorting. I also put some hot glue around the + and - wires coming from the light so they didn't break off while getting everything arranged inside the head.
Pic one: You can see the red and black wire from the light. The red wire came with the light, used to be attached to the emitter. The black wire is what I screwed into the aluminum baseplate on the light using the same screw and screw-hole that the emitter used.
Pic two: I made a thin plastic spacer to go between the Aixis module and the flexdrive. The plan was to use this as a place for my aluminum heatsinking bars to sit without falling too far down below the head.
Pic three and four: I don't have access to a lathe. So, I improvised my heat sink and I'm fairly proud of the results. I used a 1/4" thick pure aluminum bar (available at most hardware stores). I cut it into 1/2" length nuggets and filed each one down to fit very snugly between the Aixis module and the body of the flashlight. The tighter the fit, the better heat is conducted away. I think this is a good solution for people out there that don't have other means to make a heat sink.
Pic five: All closed up and looking pretty. I made an aluminum disk from a 1/16" thick aluminum sheet (also available at your hardware store). I used the glass from the flashlight as a template and then drilled out the middle. I removed the gasket from the flashlight bezel to aid in the conduction of heat from the aluminum bars, through the disk, into the bezel. It all fits nice and tight, but not so tight that anything is in danger of bending or breaking.
