PHR build in a 3405 kit --[DEAD]--

Re: PHR build! with a 3405 kit!

hey bloompyle just admit your wrong, look this is a good light and this is a bad light, these are both pocket pals, see

Imageshack - picture0010lb.jpg
have a look dude

the light comparison is the two pocketpals shown blu and silver. the other big torch is my new bluray host
http://img9.imageshack.us/g/picture0018wk.jpg/

Re: PHR build! with a 3405 kit!

bloompyle said:

I can't test the diode, no LPM (I don't have $60 right now to test laser output, I really don't care about the exact output). I connected the MM + and -'probes' to the driver output (diode connection). I would connect wait a couple seconds for it to stabalize, I did this 2-3 times per turn to make sure it was right, then I turn the post accordingly a little bit at a time. I started noticing that once my driver (A Rckstr MicroDrive V3) hit ~150mA the current would go higher a LOT faster.

Click to expand...

With diode connected? What input voltage? It doesn't really matter, with or without diode, it is still wrong. You cannot measure current in parallel with anything, and unless you know the resistance of the particular diode you are using you cannot calculate current with a voltage reading, which can be done in parallel.

You blew your PHR because you didn't know how to set current correctly and had no idea how many mA you put through it. You will continue to blow your raw materials until you learn these things and until you learn these things you should not give any advice. This is the simple stuff. Get it right and it's a great hobby; get it wrong and it's a money pit. Don't take others down with you.

M

Re: PHR build! with a 3405 kit!

You didn't get my comparison....nevermind. This all started because yall were mad at me for taking a pic with an IR diode instead of a PHR. Screw it, no matter what I say, there's an argument against it, even when I get asked questions and I answer them completely, except for the MM question. But even though I answer the questions fine, I get more questions, and looked down upon. So, you know what, I don't care anymore, I was right mostly in my eyes, but I guess I was wrong even though I proved myself right. But whatever, I guess I'm either insane, or the only sane one....This forum is starting to really piss me off. First TJ started trolling me everywhere I went, now more are starting to randomly get mad at me. So I really couldn't give a damn anymore....I'm tired of trying to explain myself repeatedly. I've answered the same questions multiple times in this thread, most of which asked MULTIPLE times by the same person. So again, I'm going to stop trying.

Morgan said:

With diode connected? What input voltage? It doesn't really matter, with or without diode, it is still wrong. You cannot measure current in parallel with anything, and unless you know the resistance of the particular diode you are using you cannot calculate current with a voltage reading, which can be done in parallel.

You blew your PHR because you didn't know how to set current correctly and had no idea how many mA you put through it. You will continue to blow your raw materials until you learn these things and until you learn these things you should not give any advice. This is the simple stuff. Get it right and it's a great hobby; get it wrong and it's a money pit. Don't take others down with you.M

Click to expand...

So are you saying that I'm in fault, because I got bad info? Thanks, that makes sense. I did what I was told. And I tested it using the mA setting on my multimeter, I originally planned an LOC in that build, but my mA setting only goes up to 250, so I just put a PHR in there on 110mA. Anything else?

Re: PHR build! with a 3405 kit!

lol T-J is a great guy (most of the time ) and you just provoke him by arguing about information you are given and by giving bad info.
cheers
and i think my stock pocketpal demo was pretty good those were both new bought yesterday so there is a difference between bad and dead,
cheers

Re: PHR build! with a 3405 kit!

Right, I was given information by a repected member (ChipDouglas) and now I'm told it was wrong. And TJ has been insulting me, and being rude to be before you even joined this forum. Stop assuming, because you're wrong.

Re: PHR build! with a 3405 kit!

Just trying to help you out with this information... rog8811 wrote some good information on how to adjust current with a test load.

He shows a DDL driver, but it is the same procedure for a rkcstr or a FlexDrive: (save this link for future reference)
It can be done - Laser driver

P.S. It's possible that the information chipdouglas gave was correct, but you may not have understood what he meant. Read that link ('It can be done') above!

Re: Please just close this thread.

Back on subject of the 405 diode died, I have a question as to how long of a duty cycle you used. That may have been the reason for the burnt diode.

Re: Please just close this thread.

why close this thread?? just admit whatever you did and get back on track and post pics of this bluray build.
cheers
p.s dont chuck a spasm whenever something doesnt go your way, have a break have a coffe and come back.
cheers

Re: Please just close this thread.

I have no idea what 'chuck a spasm' means, I've never heard that phrase. And if people stop pissing on my thread, then it's fine. And I said like eleven times that my PHR died. I can't post pics of it with an LOC even though it looks the same, because then I'd be lieing, all I have are the pics already available (the ones you have). As far a duty cycle, I was told blu-rays don't produce much heat, AND it was a PHR, AND it had heatsinking. So I'm pretty sure heat wasn't an issue. And what would taking a break do? That would just be 30mins inbetween getting yelled at. I answer questions only to be asked more quesrions and get yelled at, I wasn't freaking out or anything, I'm just starting to get irritated from getting interogated in a thread that was made for a PHR build...

chuck a spasm or chuck a hissie fit???? same thing, now why not change name to my loc build instead???

Because we're in a Blu-Ray section. And it was a blu-ray to begin with, not an LOC.

I'm saying you're at fault because you didn't seek out the information that is freely available after doing a search. If you had, you would already have come across the thread linked by Jayrob. Chip did not give you bad information, you just didn't understand it correctly, and balancing that information against a little reading you could have changed the outcome.

This is not an insurmountable problem. People ask you questions to better understand the process you took and to offer advice about the failure. This is not interrogation; we need to know what you did and why. You have to capability to find any information you require. Read the stickies; they are highlighted for a reason. If you have a question; do a search first as the question has likely been asked before and although it may take time, it's better than being the one asking the same old question again and again. One of your posts asks what current to set a GGW IR diode at. I think that's a valid one as there is generally not much empirical information on those diodes but why not get to know the common ones first and go investigate yourself? A thread stating what you have found out will be useful.

There is no doubt, however, as to what happened to your PHR. Duty cycles are an important consideration in most cases but in my experience PHRs don't produce a lot of heat, (search efficiency graphs etc), so you're right but that's not the reason it died. The reason it failed is more fundamental than that. The current setting procedure was flawed and you should've checked the group knowledge on that. I think you are impatient and that leads to a few errors. One is that it becomes easier to ask than to search, (what if you encountered a person like yourself who provides hearsay evidence?). This leads to another; you accept the answer as gospel, (what if you encounter a person like yourself who provides hearsay evidence?). It's a process: Know what facts you need, (and search for them); check your facts, (again, by searching) and; recheck by asking if you are unsure and confirm that the search you carried out gave you the correct information. Simple steps but they work.

Don't get p***ed when you are challenged. You are challenged for a reason. Even if you don't know what the reason is just yet.

M

Well, I can;t test the good current for diodes, I can't test that sort of stuff, no LPM....And I knew about the test loads, but I didn;t have that on me, and I thought that if the diode system for setting current, was flawed, then he would have informed me of such. I guess I was wrong. I'm getting a DMM in the mail sometime this week...if DX gets their head out of their ass and learns how to run a company. They said 'in stock, 2-4 day shipping' on the product, so I ordered it on the 19th. They JUST shipped it yesterday, up until then my order status was 'ordering' like i wasn't in stock. :wtf: DX has some serious issues....So, I was using a cheapy MM from Home Depot that didn't really work the way I wanted it, and I woiuldn't be able to hook up the 200mW LPM up to it. So my dad has that one. Anyway, I'm losing my coordination and focus....as well as sense of what's going on, so I won't be able to have a discussion anymore tonight. Man.....I'm slipping fast. Night yall.

No, YOUR current setting was flawed, not anyone elses. Read man! It's not hard.

I've tried to point out YOUR errors. If you can't interpret what I'm writing and go and seek out the knowledge then the problem is with you. I would suggest you don't post for at least a week and read up on the things you need to know before blowing more LDs and upsetting more people. These are, at the very least:

Ohm's law
General use of a DMM, (probably not on this forum)
Current setting procedures
LPF forum etiquette


And... Work on your communication skills. Again, probably not on this forum but you need to understand the importance of full information. Less talk, more understanding and at a slower pace. I've been here for over a year and proud to be a member. I would be mighty annoyed should you be considered a veteran before me! I want to help educate but there's only so far I can go...

Get some sleep. You need it.

M

I know Ohm's law, 1mV = 1mA
How to use a DMM...well for testing current, I know how.
Current setting procedures, set up a test load for either red or blu-ray. Attach the test load on the LD side of the driver, apply power to the driver, use DMM on the LD side, check the current using Ohm's law. Then turn the pot accordingly.

I've got those three, I don't want to say anything about forum etiquette because that's one of those things that you're not supposed to say you have, but I'm assuming I don't...

Ohm's law does not state that 1mV = 1mA. You keep showing just how much you don't know. I'm not convinced you know how to check whatever it is you think you need to check on the test load either but that may well be down to your poor communication.

You are correct about one thing though. You do not understand forum etiquette.

I tire of you. If you can't be bothered to go and find the correct information. I cannot be bothered to try and help you further. Maybe someday you will contribute but not at the moment. Keep on trolling if you like but you can troll to yourself in this thread.

M