My first DIY laser.

This is my first post here, i have read the rules but if i get something wrong please notify me.
So here it goes. A couple of weeks ago i decided to make my own bluray laser. I did my research and found that the "Must have" parts are the diode, the module and the diode driver otherwise you can't make a diode laser.
After that i bought a phr-803t since it is the most widely used diode from amateurs like me. Then i bought the driver and the module from o-like which seem to have great quality.
Here is the module and that is the driver.
Since most builds use an aixiz module i haven't been able to find information on how to fit the laser diode in the module nor how is the driver connected(i read that the + and - on the driver are not correct). So i came here in hope that someone who is experienced enough could show me how to put this all together.
And one last thing, i didn't forget to buy safety goggles. Safety first

Fitting your diode into that module is no problem. It would simply drop in, and the little brass collar screws down to secure it. You'll need to solder wires onto the diode pins, since they won't stick out past the collar.

That driver gives me pause. Unless it's adjustable, you might not be able to get the current low enough for a PHR. Others might be able to advise you better than I can, since I have no direct experience with that driver.

Well, i don't see a pot anywhere on the driver. Unless it is inside the large cylindrical object which has "1R8" writen on it. If i used a resistor or wouldn't i have decreased the current?

As far as concerning the module and the diode, i took the ir diode out of the sled(to get the first impression about the extraction of diodes). It didn't fit quite well in the module. I mean that after fitting the diode in the cavity, the brass collar wouldn't fit all the way in, even though i did cut the pins and i left no ribbon on the diode.

Anyway, thank you for clarifying :yh:
I hope the other members help me aswell.

Oh, and one more thing, if the brass collar is for securing the diode and the lens is for collimination, why does the manufacturer also provide a spring?

proud2deviate said:

Fitting your diode into that module is no problem. It would simply drop in, and the little brass collar screws down to secure it. You'll need to solder wires onto the diode pins, since they won't stick out past the collar.

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Exactly. I just wanted to add that you should use thermal paste, like the kind
you use between CPU and cooler in a PC.
Put some around the base of the diode, basically whereever it makes contact
to the module, also put some on the threads of the brass collar.

Since the diode is not pressfit into this module, using that thermal paste
helps a lot in conducting the heat away from the diode.

Just be careful not to smear some onto the diode's window!

About that driver: I don't know that one, but it ssems like the wrong one for your diode.

why does the manufacturer also provide a spring

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The spring puts a little (tiny) force on the lens to keep it from "rattling" in it's thread.

the brass collar wouldn't fit all the way in,

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those threads are not the tightest in the world...
Are you sure you are not cross-threading the collar?
The (5.8mm) diode should go all the way to the bottom on its own when you drop it into
the module, the collar then should screw all the way down to the back of the diode.
Tighten it carefully, you don't wanna strip those flimsy threads.

So i suppose it is normal for the diode to not go all the way into the housing. pheww

Hmm, i think i will be able to use the thermal paste as you said. Just adding some with a toothpick would be enough i suppose.

Edit:

I tried to putting the diode again into the module. Same thing happened. The collar is protruding by 1-2 threads. Not very much, but without the diode it fits perfectly.
One more thing i also noticed was that the diode also fitted perfectly, so is there a case that the manufacturer made the module this way one purpose?

So i suppose it is normal for the diode to not go all the way into the housing. pheww

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What? You got something wrong, because the diode is supposed to go in all the way.
The diode's baseplate is supposed to make contact with the module all around.

With a diode inside the module, the collar, after you tightened it down, indeed sticks out a mm or two.

Let me rephrase then, "i suppose it is normal for the brass collar to not go all the way into the housing"

So to clarify the spring thing. Do i put it between the diode and the lens, where the lens is supposed to thread?
And why is there so much space in the rest of the module? (housing for the driver maybe?)

DeathNoteViewer said:

Let me rephrase then, "i suppose it is normal for the brass collar to not go all the way into the housing"

So to clarify the spring thing. Do i put it between the diode and the lens, where the lens is supposed to thread?

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Yep and yep -

For drivers - I've had a lot of luck recently with this:
Variable Current Step-up (Boost) 405nm Laser Driver Board - Detailed item view - OdicForce Lasers Online Shop

It's cheap at ~$7, it's a boost driver so it works from 1x lithium ion cell, and it has a pretty good range of current from 20mA to 500mA. Works for pretty much everything except a 445nm diode.

Frankly, I don't see much need for a super costly Microboost or Flexdrive, for anything other than 445nm diodes - not when you can get pretty much the entire range you'd need out of one of these for $7 instead of $25.

rhd said:

Yep and yep -

For drivers - I've had a lot of luck recently with this:
Variable Current Step-up (Boost) 405nm Laser Driver Board - Detailed item view - OdicForce Lasers Online Shop

It's cheap at ~$7, it's a boost driver so it works from 1x lithium ion cell, and it has a pretty good range of current from 20mA to 500mA. Works for pretty much everything except a 445nm diode.

Frankly, I don't see much need for a super costly Microboost or Flexdrive, for anything other than 445nm diodes - not when you can get pretty much the entire range you'd need out of one of these for $7 instead of $25.

Click to expand...

You made my day!:bowdown:

But what about soldering a resistor on the driver i currently have?

DeathNoteViewer said:

You made my day!:bowdown:

But what about soldering a resistor on the driver i currently have?

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Do you have a multi meter and a test load? If so, I'd suggest you try it. It could be a good learning experience, and all you'll lose is a dab of solder and a little time. I'd think it would work with the proper resistor (I mean, that's what they do, right?) but I'm far far from an expert, and I've learned that mere assumption on my part usually precedes falling on my butt.

For a PHR, I'd recommend trying for about 100 - 110 mA for a decent life. I've run them at 150 before, but they tend to die soon at that current, in my experience.

I have a multimeter, i don't know if it is suitable thought, i suppose that i ll have to measure the voltage and calculate the current from ohm's law. However my multimiter isn't very sensitive and would read values scaling by 1 for example the smallest value it can read is 1 volt and the next is 2, i dont know how well i 've expressed that since english is not my mother tongue
Anyway, as far as concerning the test load, i think i will be able to make one. It won't require to be expert at soldering i suppose, and also i know the basics.
To conclude, what kind of resistor should i get and where do i have to solder it?
Guessing from this site, i suppose that a 100ohm potentiometer would be fine. But still i ll have to solder it somewhere on the driver.

Really? Nobody is going to suggest against this?
Well - I think this approach is a bad one. You're likely to wreck your driver, and diode.
I'd strongly recommend just ordering a driver that is right for your diode. Sucks to have to wait for something else to arrive, I know. But it also sucks to destroy your diode!

rhd said:

Really? Nobody is going to suggest against this?
Well - I think this approach is a bad one. You're likely to wreck your driver, and diode.
I'd strongly recommend just ordering a driver that is right for your diode. Sucks to have to wait for something else to arrive, I know. But it also sucks to destroy your diode!

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You most likely are right, i am in a rush right now and i want to get it done. But i suppose it is not right. I ll order the driver as soon as i refill my paypal account since i got like 3-4 dollars right now.
So how can i use the driver i currently have?
And is it ok to use the driver that is shown in the site i posted above?

Edit:
By the way, i just saw again the odicforce driver, in the description it says that it is rated for 20mA-500mA but the in image it says 0mA-300mA. Is there a mistake or something?

Hey, the problem is that nobody (as far as I know) has tested that driver enough to know how to modify it, and how it bahaves to different resistors etc. Here's a thread that talks about it:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/o...ode-200mw-405nm-laser-diode-driver-58721.html

The only thing I can think of to do is the following (but really, this is a shot in the dark, so don't ask me for clarification, because I really don't have any details to provide):

- Figure out how to set the driver for the low 200mW output. I don't know how to, but it advertises two output options, so you should be able to figure out how. It's probably a solder bridge, or something along those lines. Maybe just a different diode solder pad. I don't know.

- This will still probably be too much (200mA?) current. So try sticking 5x 1N4001 in series, and then wiring that series in parallel with the diode. That might split the current 50/50 and leave your PHR with a more appropriate 100mA.

I really don't know if this is good advice. You should probably get the input of someone more experienced with this driver and/or electronics in general to double check my concept. I wish I could offer more help. Sorry that I can't.

Re the OdicForce driver - I noticed that also. All I can say is that I'm getting around 420mA out of it max, with a 12x diode. Good question though - not sure if that's a type. Though I think it does say 300mA +

you'll need a host and heatsink to ...
and btw you can just make a lm317t driver (lm317t+ 11ohm resistor) should be about 114mA

proud2deviate said:

You'll need to solder wires onto the diode pins, since they won't stick out past the collar.

.

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Update

Today, i decided that it was time to salvage the diode from the sled. All went smoothly.
Then this is where the nightmare began. Soldering the wires onto the pins without them touching the collar brass after i fitted it was not an easy task, but finally i got it right. So, as far as concerning this, is there any insulating material you know, so i can mold it around the diode pins and the wire in order to reinforce the pin-wire bridge? And, if possible i want that material to be easy removable in case the diode burns out and i want to replace it.