Empty DX lasers as hosts...

charliebruce said:

If you wanted to make your pen host work with case-negative, you can put a small dot of solder on the end screw-cap, which presses against the negative side of the battery. I think that 10440s can put out enough current, but I haven't tried myself so I can't confirm this. You may be able to set up an LM1117 to work with a case-positive configuration, but I don't know if this is possible either.

Click to expand...

Yes, can be done.
Thermal tape can provide good thermal conductivity and will be good dielectric.

Tricky trick : if you're using the 1117 ONLY as current regulator, you can use it connecting it in "reverse" on the negative wire (but careful, ONLY as current regulator, and only well insulated from anything other) ..... anyway, i really don't see the point in made a host case-positive for a BR

BTW, 1117 can give til 1,5A max, 1A normal work, but the model that you have linked is a TO252 SMD case one, is better to keep the current for this case not over 700 / 800 mA, if not well heatsinked, otherwise it reach easily the thermal limit, and the protection turn it off.

And, i don't want to seem rude, but have you looked at flexdrive schematic ? It's a boost converter used as current regulated driver, using a TPS63010 IC ..... this IC is a DSBGA package, the maximum dimensions of it are 2,65x2,25mm, and have 20 pins in grid configuration (these are the sizes and spaces of the pins, in millimeters)



If you can find someone that can solder it by hands, say me who he is, cause the only time that i tried it, i had to solder mini-wires on it, then solder it on a protoboard, just for do a test, and, i have to admit, also if i'm used to work with smd, i killed one of the 2 samples that i had, just trying to solder the wires on it

Yes, i admit that flexdrive have a price a bit high, but considerate also the need to make it industrially with automated machines (and considerate also the possible rejects from the working line), it's high, but not exagerate, after all

Another trick for using a positive side regulator like LM317 or LM1117 in a positive ground laser configuration, if you have room in the host, is to make the regulator small and stuff it down the battery holder so it winds up between the case and the positive battery terminal. Negative of battery runs to switch and then diode.

It is much more difficult to fabricate a miniature boost driver than a linear regulator. The design is more complicated and the components more costly. A small one cannot be assembled with a soldering iron, too many small pins on the chip, must use a different soldering technique. (reflow soldering, etc.) The lavadrive is expensive, but a good deal for what it does. There may be some chinese alternatives slowly emerging, but until these are known good, not worth risking a diode.

HIMNL9 said:

Tricky trick : if you're using the 1117 ONLY as current regulator, you can use it connecting it in "reverse" on the negative wire (but careful, ONLY as current regulator, and only well insulated from anything other) ..... anyway, i really don't see the point in made a host case-positive for a BR

BTW, 1117 can give til 1,5A max, 1A normal work, but the model that you have linked is a TO252 SMD case one, is better to keep the current for this case not over 700 / 800 mA, if not well heatsinked, otherwise it reach easily the thermal limit, and the protection turn it off.

And, i don't want to seem rude, but have you looked at flexdrive schematic ? It's a boost converter used as current regulated driver, using a TPS63010 IC ..... this IC is a DSBGA package, the maximum dimensions of it are 2,65x2,25mm, and have 20 pins in grid configuration (these are the sizes and spaces of the pins, in millimeters)

If you can find someone that can solder it by hands, say me who he is, cause the only time that i tried it, i had to solder mini-wires on it, then solder it on a protoboard, just for do a test, and, i have to admit, also if i'm used to work with smd, i killed one of the 2 samples that i had, just trying to solder the wires on it

Yes, i admit that flexdrive have a price a bit high, but considerate also the need to make it industrially with automated machines (and considerate also the possible rejects from the working line), it's high, but not exagerate, after all

Click to expand...

The trickyest part is making the PCB itself, soldering can be homemade, getting liquid solder mix, applying it to the pcb, placing the chip on it, and putting it in the oven for a few seconds (oven already heated up).

Also yes, IC it self can be costly. However as much as you claim it is good and all, i WILL NOT throw 24 $ for it. Never. Sorry. I never said it is bad driver. I never said it is overpriced. I said i cannot afford it and that i would rather do something by myself, spare some money, you know?

Thanx for the info anyway.

here this is your best bet i have created about 50 units with this simple but effective design

http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/pen-style-blu-ray-tutorial-26397.html

john_lawson said:

here this is your best bet i have created about 50 units with this simple but effective design

http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/pen-style-blu-ray-tutorial-26397.html

Click to expand...

Sorry but it wasn't too helpfull. That is for newbies who ask this: 'Do I need aixiz to boost power ? '
No kiddin' i saw that somewhere.
So, we did clear up some things some time ago on this thread. When all my parts arrive, i will make a thread with pics from begginning to the end of the build. Just to let you know how it all went.

ok i'm still a newbie lol always looking for help i am a pen unit person
myself
portable short duty cycle pocket pens are my favorates

john_lawson said:

ok i'm still a newbie lol always looking for help i am a pen unit person
myself
portable short duty cycle pocket pens are my favorates

Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong, dayam
It just wasn't too helpful. Sorry.
Well, if you ever find yourself in huge pile o' empty pen hosts, I can maybe buy some offa your hands.

Eudaimonium said:

Perhaps you did not read couple o' my posts...
I do not repeat NOT intent to spend 24$ for a driver! What's with all you?
[/COLOR]You pay 24 $ for a driver which you can assemble (or similar driver, eqally usefull) yourself for 10x less money![/COLOR][/COLOR]
The problem is you acctually NEED to assemble something... so it is easier to throw a suitace full o' money to somebody to do it for you, now isn't it??!!

I go for as much DIY as possible, to keep my expenses at minimum's minimum.

Click to expand...

How do you build the driver and what parts are needed?

The problem that I see you having is that you won't get the whole capacity of the batteries.

Bluray diodes require around 5V, and the setup with the 1117 requires another 2.25V. That means you'll need over 7V to get the laser to turn on.

Now, you have 2 lithium ion batteries, so you say... 4.2V fully charged?

Well, it's not, because that's without a load, with a load the voltage that the battery is able to make is reduced.

For example, I did a test with a 18650 battery just then, fully charged, measuring 4.18V. When drawing 100mA, the battery voltage was at 4V, when drawing 400mA, the battery voltage was at 3.8V; that's with a battery that is much more powerful than the ones you're going to use. You'll find, that as the charge in the battery drops, the ability to generate a voltage at a constant current is greatly reduced.

Without actual figures, because I don't know enough about the chemistry of the batteries, I would say you won't even get half the capacity of your batteries before they drop below 3.5V under load, at this point your laser will stop working.

I wouldn't say stop the project, it's a great start, and quite a stable driver. But just know the limitations.

Dude, 1117 setup requires ONLY 1.4 V !
I did not use rckstr! No rectifier diodes or anything, get it?

BTW stup bumping this old thread, the bluray pen that all this talk is about is made, and sold already, fully fuctionall with very long battery lifespan, longer than expected.

So, thread is dead, and all this talk about it not working is pointless.

you can buy a good driver with 20$
check out laser DIYs shops

GREAT!!
One more of those: don't make it , buy it
Dude, LM1117 costs like, a dollar ?
12 ohm resistor: 10 cents,
SMD caps found in DVD burners

Why use 20$ when you can make it for 2$ ?

Since this thread has already been bumped I have a quick question,

Are you putting the components on a PCB? And do you have a schematic of your driver? It would be much appreciated, and what is the minimum voltage needed on the driver to run a blu-ray?

Asherz said:

Since this thread has already been bumped I have a quick question,

Are you putting the components on a PCB? And do you have a schematic of your driver? It would be much appreciated, and what is the minimum voltage needed on the driver to run a blu-ray?

Click to expand...

The entire driver is inside AixiZ module, PCB layout is this:


Another PCB was made for a switch and a contact spring, behind the module itself.



:beer:

Thanks,

appreciated